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  Mustangsandmore Forum Archive
  '64 1/2 to '68 1/2 -- The Classic Mustang
  car bogs when cold

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Author Topic:   car bogs when cold
rockafellz
Gearhead

Posts: 1459
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001

posted 09-04-2003 11:30 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for rockafellz        Reply w/Quote
Ok, may be somewhat related to the c4 shifting too early, but i'm not really sure so I separated the posts too keep away from confusion.

When the car is cold it bogs pretty bad and the only when to keep it from stalling is to press the gas pedal in. From a stop, it wants to go---die---then go all within the first 5 feet. If we mash the gas there isn't a problem. Only if you're driving regularly.

Yesterday, I was looking at the carb and noticed that the accelerator pump linkage sits so that the arm is about 1/4 depressed. I had to bend the linkage straight so that the acc. pump isn't depressed while sitting at idle, thus robbing fuel for the initial pump shot. I was hoping that would fix the bog this morning since now more fuel is able to enter the intake to prevent bog.

The accelerator pump linkage arm is connected to the upper most hole on the throttle shaft linkage. If I lower it, it depresses the acc. pump and shoots fuel into the intake. 4 total holes for adjustment FYI.

The motor idles great and doesn't seem to have a vacuum leak, although I haven't checked for any. It is also running the original air/smog pump. It also has power steering. The motor has 102000 original miles and the motor has never been rebuilt but doesn't show any sign of problems. It doesn't burn oil. And is a great runner after you get passed that bog from a stop.

Please help.

Thanks in advance.

Erik

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1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress

1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
Dad's - Original Unrestored

senzstang
Gearhead

Posts: 530
From: perry, oh, usa
Registered: May 2002

posted 09-04-2003 12:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for senzstang        Reply w/Quote
I may be way off base but your bog may be related to your shift problems (other post)due to loss of vacuum to the modulator on the C4.

Did the 2 problems start at the same time?
Phil

Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 09-05-2003 06:18 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz        Reply w/Quote
Does it run a choke Erik ?

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SCOOP

2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc.

My Pics

rockafellz
Gearhead

Posts: 1459
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001

posted 09-05-2003 06:55 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for rockafellz        Reply w/Quote
Yes, autolite 2100 2bbl w/stock Ford intake.

------------------
1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress

1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
Dad's - Original Unrestored

Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 09-05-2003 07:02 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz        Reply w/Quote
Have you tried to make the choke alittle more rich .

------------------
SCOOP

2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc.

My Pics

[This message has been edited by Fastymz (edited 09-05-2003).]

rockafellz
Gearhead

Posts: 1459
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001

posted 09-09-2003 08:13 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for rockafellz        Reply w/Quote
Good idea. Any idea on how to properly adjust the choke on an Autolite 2100?

Thanks in advance.

Erik

------------------
1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress

1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
Dad's - Original Unrestored

rockafellz
Gearhead

Posts: 1459
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001

posted 09-15-2003 10:15 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for rockafellz        Reply w/Quote
TTT

Erik

------------------
1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress

1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
Dad's - Original Unrestored

Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 09-15-2003 04:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz        Reply w/Quote
Erik does the choke have a black dail on the outside of the choke.Turn the dail to where the choke closes alittle more.What kind of choke is it ?
Cable,Hot air,eletric.

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SCOOP

2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc.

My Pics

rockafellz
Gearhead

Posts: 1459
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001

posted 09-15-2003 05:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for rockafellz        Reply w/Quote
Hot Air. I will try later tonight.

Thanks.

Erik

------------------
1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress

1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
Dad's - Original Unrestored

Hell_Fish
Gearhead

Posts: 911
From: Austin, TX.
Registered: May 2002

posted 09-16-2003 11:52 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hell_Fish        Reply w/Quote
Not to sound like a smart ass, but do you let the engine warm up? You really shouldn't drive a cold engine. Its not good for it.

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Dustin C
"The Mopar Guy!"
56 F-100
Mech. for wifes 69 Mustang coupe
65 Plymouth Barracuda
70 Dodge Swinger

Jeff
Gearhead

Posts: 306
From: Moore, OK USA
Registered: Mar 2001

posted 09-16-2003 01:59 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Jeff        Reply w/Quote
Its normal for a carbed car to bog when cold if the choke is open and the carb preheat is not working. The colder it gets the more noticable the tendency. The beauty of EFI is the computer takes care of adjusting everything for you.

Setting the choke:

First make sure the choke heat riser works and the choke backs off as the car warms up. To see this may require a little pressure on the accelerator to free the linkage.

Once you know it works, allow the engine to fully cool off. Kick the accelerator once. The choke should close nearly fully (to 1/16" open). If it isn't at 1/16" then loosen the three clip screws on the choke body and rotate the index until the choke butterfly is 1/16" open from fully closed.

Start engine and check idle characteristics with choke closed. Engine should start and run rich. Engine should be allowed to warm up several minutes before you start off. Drive car and assess freedom from bog. If bog persists try re-adjusting choke one index mark richer. Repeat this up to twice to eliminate bog. If no improvement look at other tune up issues...plugs, wiring, points, etc.

Don't expect perfection in a carbed vehicle. These cars had crude control systems compared to modern cars. If the car runs well when warm then you may just have to be satisfied with waiting until the engine warms up.

rockafellz
Gearhead

Posts: 1459
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001

posted 09-18-2003 10:38 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for rockafellz        Reply w/Quote
Thanks Ron & Jeff, I pressed the accelerator one time, check the choke. It was halfway closed. I adjusted the black plastic plate counterclockwise but wouldn't move the choke plate. I had to loosen the screw right behind the plastic plate. The screw is spring loaded. Is there a proper way to adjust that spring loaded screw?

In any case, the car is running bog free now. All I have to do now is solve the 1st to 2nd gear early shift problem and this car will be running awesome!!

Thanks.

Erik

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1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress

1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
Dad's - Original Unrestored

SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 48752
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 09-18-2003 02:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere        Reply w/Quote
When cold, your choke plate should snap closed when the throttle is opened. Take a look at the choke thermostat, perhaps it's dead or was assembled incorrectly; the end of the spring has to fit into the slot on the tang inside the choke housing.

Actually, before you do that, loosen the three screws on the choke thermostat and see if the choke plate moves in both directions when you turn the thermostat back and forth. That will tell you if the end of the choke thermostat spring is engaged in the tang.

Adjust the choke thermostat until the plate lightly touches the choke horn. Fire the engine up and watch the choke plate, which should start to open immediately and be fully open in about 5 minutes. If not, it's time for a new choke thermostat.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '70 Mustang Convertible - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150

adragon8u
Gearhead

Posts: 5867
From: Oceano, Ca. member# 2895
Registered: Mar 2003

posted 09-18-2003 03:05 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for adragon8u        Reply w/Quote
also if I'm not mistaken when adjusting those chokes is that you turn the black dial counterclockwise to close the choke, sort of backwards from what you would expect.

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66 coupe
289
C4 auto
"someone who knows how will always have a job working for someone who knows why"
http://webpages.charter.net/adragon8u/mystang

Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 09-18-2003 03:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz        Reply w/Quote
Or just take the choke off.I've never ran a choke on my Mustang or any other older cars I've had.You just have drive it easy until it warms up.I don't drive away until I see my temp gauge move alittle.
------------------
SCOOP

2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc.

My Pics

[This message has been edited by Fastymz (edited 09-18-2003).]

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