|
Author
|
Topic: Help With My Suspension, Please
|
N266fords
Gearhead Posts: 585
From: Spokane ,WA USA
Registered: Apr 2003
|
posted 08-06-2003 09:19 PM
   
I am going to start tearing into my wifes 66 stang and I am not sure what to look out for..I am going to add all new parts like upper control arms lower control arms spring perches inner and outer tie rods both tie rod ends and sleves.I already put in her new steering box..My question is what order should i start with and what do I need to watch out for ??? I am going to jack up the car and take off the wheels shocks and then the springs i would think is first. I will count the turns it takes to remove the tie rods so the new ones will be close.But i have never done this and it is a concern of mine not to mess it up by overlooking something important ..Thanks in advance. Oh yes I will take lots of pictures of befor and all the steps along the way with my digital camera so i can reassemble in reverse order..thank you, Bruce
IP: Logged |
lreeder
Journeyman Posts: 67
From: Houston, TX 77090
Registered: Jul 2003
|
posted 08-06-2003 09:29 PM
Sounds like you've got a good plan already. Most of it is pretty straight forward. One thing to watch for are the alignment shims. They're on the bolts that hold the upper control arm to the shock tower. Keep them together so they go back in the right place. That, along with the tie rod turn counting, will make the alignment close enough to get you to an alignment shop.
IP: Logged |
N266fords
Gearhead Posts: 585
From: Spokane ,WA USA
Registered: Apr 2003
|
posted 08-06-2003 10:24 PM
thank you Bruce
IP: Logged |
N266fords
Gearhead Posts: 585
From: Spokane ,WA USA
Registered: Apr 2003
|
posted 08-09-2003 01:38 AM
well the passenger side is complete I am using mac strut compresser that is 10 inches long and i am using two of them on one spring. I am so glad I went out today and bought another tie rod ball joint seperator tool and a 4 lb sledge hammer.This made a world of difference on the original 66 suspension seperation.lol..Just letting you know how its going. I was so scared to pull the springs because you hear so many stories..But hey I am still here well I do have the other side to do yet.Hehehe Bruce
IP: Logged |
lreeder
Journeyman Posts: 67
From: Houston, TX 77090
Registered: Jul 2003
|
posted 08-09-2003 08:39 AM
Glad to hear it. Keep us posted.
IP: Logged |
N266fords
Gearhead Posts: 585
From: Spokane ,WA USA
Registered: Apr 2003
|
posted 08-12-2003 11:05 PM
Well it done now and i can relax I think..I am so glad i did it my self I painted and cleaned everything that was old going back on and I am glad I did it looks clean.. I bought the suspension from mustangs Unlimited and all though the parts were easy to install I noticed the ball joints were riveted instead fo bolted should I be conserned or not sorry I have been drinking whiskey and I am felling good.lol
IP: Logged |
Toronado3800
Gearhead Posts: 360
From: St. Louis, MO
Registered: Jul 2001
|
posted 08-13-2003 07:26 PM
Is that the origionals were rivited and the new ones are bolted? I think thats the standard way it goes. I've always wondered why the origionals are rivited.
IP: Logged |
N266fords
Gearhead Posts: 585
From: Spokane ,WA USA
Registered: Apr 2003
|
posted 08-13-2003 08:44 PM
no the new ones are riveted and the ones i took off where bolted. I saw an atrical today that shows a 66 set up from laural mountain and they too were riveted..Oh well there in now so a little late but i will watch for seperation ..Bruce
IP: Logged |
heavenerm
Journeyman Posts: 16
From: Wahiawa, HI
Registered: Jun 2003
|
posted 08-13-2003 09:03 PM
Now that you are done, do you have any suggestions? Things you would do differently? Things to look out for? I have all of my parts but new springs, which should come in next week. I will probably hit mine next weekend. This is the first suspension job for me, just a little nervous. Thanks,
IP: Logged |
N266fords
Gearhead Posts: 585
From: Spokane ,WA USA
Registered: Apr 2003
|
posted 08-13-2003 10:24 PM
man i was nervous to but had no regrets i bought a 10 inch mc strut compressor which uses two out side compressors on one spring..I was not sure this would work but it did just fine.First jack up the front end and support the frame with stands good ones please at least 3 ton. then remove the cover over the spring 8 bolts on one side.Then jack up the lowercontrol arm and remove the bottom shock bolts then lower the lower control arm and remove the top shock bolts ..Now your ready to remove your coil spring .be slow and make sure to jack the lower control arm up as you go to releive the stress on the compressor.This makes it easy and faster to turn..once you get it compressed slowly lower the lower control arm and watch the spring. i had to do this twice cause when you lower it it will grow taller and i did not compress it even nor did I take a big enough bite on it .so up it went again for another round of compressing.then it was out .easy. remove all of your cotter pins on joints you are removing..I also had to go get a tie rod seperator mine has three different ends that screw on for different sizes it was like $12. new and it was handy so was my 4lb sledge..most of them popped right away one or two gave me a fight but i just tried differnt angles of attack and I kick it a$$..I did one side at a time and the were some pads that came with my spring perches that go in between the spring and the perch I think. anyways I did not have a book or anything everything went well..Also on reassembly you will have to really tightent those castle nuts to get them to seat so you can put the cotter pins in them. I used a 1/2 drive ratchet then a breaker bar when things got tight. give your self a couple of days to clean old parts and repaint them..Bruce
IP: Logged |
lonewolf
Journeyman Posts: 10
From: Greeley, Colorado
Registered: Jul 2003
|
posted 08-14-2003 12:15 AM
Glad to hear you got it done. Playing with the springs is like playing with dynamite. The couple of times I did this made me nervous as well. On those jobs, I used a spring compressor that grabbed the spring from the inside where the shock would normally reside. On the subject of rivets, I have seen factory ones riveted and the replacement parts I have used from PST were ball joints you bolted to the control arms rather than replacing the arm.------------------
Lonewolf
1968 Coupe in Pieces
IP: Logged |
heavenerm
Journeyman Posts: 16
From: Wahiawa, HI
Registered: Jun 2003
|
posted 08-14-2003 02:48 AM
That is great. Thanks for all the advice. I will let you know how it goes in about two weeks. Hopefully mine goes as smooth as yours. Thanks again,Micah
IP: Logged |
sodi
Journeyman Posts: 63
From: Kenosha Wi. USA
Registered: Dec 2002
|
posted 08-17-2003 10:26 AM
The originals were riveted because at the factory they were assembled off the line and put in as an assemby. Faster- more effitiant- cost effective
IP: Logged |
Mustangsandmore Forums
UBBFriend: Email This Page to Someone! 
