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Author
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Topic: cutting coils?
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streetstang67
Gearhead Posts: 334
From: SC, USA
Registered: Nov 2002
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posted 04-23-2003 09:10 PM
   
I have a '67 with stock v8 coil springs. I know the rear is sitting lower b/c the leafs have sagged, but I would rather lower the front than raise the back to level it out. I dont really have the money right now for 620# springs, so I was considering cutting mine. First off, has anybody else done this, and how good does it work? Second, How much do I need to cut to lower it a certain amount. Heres the pic to show you how high its sitting up front...what do you think?
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/streetstang67.html------------------
'67 coupe: 289 bored .030 over, c-4 tranny
Holley 600 carb, edelbrock performer intake, hooker comp headers, dual flowmaster exhuast
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johnmustang
Gearhead Posts: 4727
From: British Columbia , Canada
Registered: Nov 2001
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posted 04-23-2003 09:17 PM
Instead of cutting the front springs I would just get the rear leafs re-arced, not expensive and a better ride. Just my .02 JOHN  ------------------
65 2+2 FASTBACK
87 TAURUS WAGON
98 F150 XLT TRITON V8 4.6, 4 WHEEL DRIVE
Member:Vancouver Island Mustang Association
M&M #1710
MyPhotoPage
MY TRUCK
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carhartted
Journeyman Posts: 61
From: Fairbanks, Alaska
Registered: Feb 2003
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posted 04-23-2003 11:25 PM
I'll second johnmustang on this one. I recently had my rear springs re arched for my Suberban it cost less than $200, a lot less than a set of new springs.I would worry about clearence problems if you cut you stock coil spring since it is just as wore out as the rear. Jonathan
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Fastback68
Gearhead Posts: 1880
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 04-23-2003 11:57 PM
There have been a bunch of informative posts here at M&M from folks who've cut their springs, but I've never forgotten a one-liner from Alex which basically said "Don't!" I've only known Alex to be wrong once, and that was about interior trim
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T5owner
Gearhead Posts: 635
From: Germany
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 04-24-2003 01:40 AM
Although I am far away from being a "spring expert", my coils were cut, when I bought it. Most noticeable were problems upon hard braking and hard cornering (touching fender).
I'd think that logically from the design of a front spring, cutting a spring of course means cutting the stiffer end of the spring, so you loose the most important "portion" of the spring for extreme situations. While for crusing you probably won't experience any difference in ride quality, the fun of speedier driving is in danger.
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Hell_Fish
Gearhead Posts: 680
From: Austin, TX.
Registered: May 2002
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posted 04-24-2003 08:58 AM
Cutting springs is risky. There is an old hotrodder trick that you heat the springs with a torch and make them colapse some. Though I think the hotrodders way is safer, Im not too sure it is safe.------------------
Dustin C
"The Mopar Guy!"
56 F-100
Mech. for wifes 69 Mustang coupe
65 Plymouth Barracuda
70 Dodge Swinger
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 34763
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 04-24-2003 10:06 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Hell_Fish:
Cutting springs is risky. There is an old hotrodder trick that you heat the springs with a torch and make them colapse some. Though I think the hotrodders way is safer, Im not too sure it is safe.
You don't want to do that, it destroys the heat temper. That's why you should never cut a spring with a torch. I wouldn't cut springs, myself. There's a science to these things.
streetstang67, your car seems to sit just as it was engineered to. Re-arching the rear springs, like John suggested is a good option if you want to raise the back. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Please remember our sponsors,
Mustangs Plus, NPD, Osborn Reproductions, MyFordPerformance.com, and FordRamAir.com
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Hell_Fish
Gearhead Posts: 680
From: Austin, TX.
Registered: May 2002
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posted 04-24-2003 10:34 AM
Rear springs are $130 a pair from www.espo.com for 6 leaf springs. New coils are $60 to $80.$200 for re-arched? Ouch. Sorry bud.  ------------------
Dustin C
"The Mopar Guy!"
56 F-100
Mech. for wifes 69 Mustang coupe
65 Plymouth Barracuda
70 Dodge Swinger [This message has been edited by Hell_Fish (edited 04-24-2003).]
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streetstang67
Gearhead Posts: 334
From: SC, USA
Registered: Nov 2002
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posted 04-24-2003 01:43 PM
I dont want to raise the back...if I get them re-arched, then I would still get lowering blocks or something. How could I just lower the front? What about thinner coil spring isolators? anything else?
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Hell_Fish
Gearhead Posts: 680
From: Austin, TX.
Registered: May 2002
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posted 04-24-2003 02:17 PM
Check out Espo. I know with springs that they will add extra arch for a small fee. They may be able to do the same with coils and those are cheaper to boot.------------------
Dustin C
"The Mopar Guy!"
56 F-100
Mech. for wifes 69 Mustang coupe
65 Plymouth Barracuda
70 Dodge Swinger
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rockafellz
Gearhead Posts: 1329
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001
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posted 04-24-2003 03:51 PM
I would NOT cut your springs unless you want a really crappy ride. I've seen a ton of ricers do it and it destroyed the comfort of the ride, even compared to lowering springs. Do that to your heavier stang and the same thing will happen or even worse. SteveL is correct. There is a science to springs and if you cut them you screw it all up.I've seen the 620lb springs go for $60 on some sites. Also keep your eyes open on ebay. Erik ------------------
1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress 1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
Dad's - Original Unrestored
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carhartted
Journeyman Posts: 61
From: Fairbanks, Alaska
Registered: Feb 2003
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posted 04-24-2003 05:27 PM
quote:
$200 for re-arched? Ouch. Sorry bud.
You gotta realize I live in Alaska, we are a captive audience. I wish I could find prices like that here. A new set of springs for my Sub would cost me $400, $200 for a used set at a junk yard. Jonathan
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 34763
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 04-24-2003 05:51 PM
Jonathan, look in the yellow pages under 'Spring Companies.' The trucking industry uses them alot and these places re-arch, manufacture, sell parts, you name it. There are two in my area and we can get virtually anything from them, and their prices are reasonable. Here's an example of one in my area to show you what I mean: http://www.palmerspring.com/
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'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Please remember our sponsors,
Mustangs Plus, NPD, Osborn Reproductions, MyFordPerformance.com, and FordRamAir.com
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Mpcoluv
Gearhead Posts: 1004
From: Charlotte NC usa
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 04-24-2003 07:11 PM
Looking at your photos, you car is probably low enough.
However I personally dont think there is anything wrong with cutting some portion of a coil off the front springs.
Take the spring out, and using a die grinder, cut about 1/4 of a coil off of the spring. Put spring back in car, let it sit for and hour and then look at it.
If it is still too high, trim a little more off.
You do not want to cut a lot off the coil however.
I have had good results using 428cj w/AC springs with about 3/4 of a coil cut off on my '69 mustang. Much better than the TMC "Lowering springs" that actually sat higher than the stockers.[This message has been edited by Mpcoluv (edited 04-24-2003).]
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MidLifCrisis
Gearhead Posts: 300
From: USA
Registered: Oct 2001
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posted 04-25-2003 12:42 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Mpcoluv:
I have had good results using 428cj w/AC springs with about 3/4 of a coil cut off on my '69 mustang. Much better than the TMC "Lowering springs" that actually sat higher than the stockers.[This message has been edited by Mpcoluv (edited 04-24-2003).]
Mpcoluv: Approx how much drop did you see cutting 3/4 of a coil? Did you notice any difference ride quality? Charlie
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rm302 boss
Moderator Posts: 649
From: Austin Texas
Registered: Dec 2002
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posted 04-25-2003 03:03 PM
I am with Steve and Alex...
I do not recommend ever heating of cutting a coil spring.... Done both with real crappy results.
One cheep option is to get a set of 1" lower contour coils for the front from some one like Mustang Unlimited they are $75.00 and have a nice fit with a little stiffer ride.. Or you may want to buy an add a leaf and just add a leaf to raise the rear..
Rene------------------
1970 Boss 302
1990 Taurus SHO
1985 Mustang GT 351W
1995 Land rover Disco
1980 Triumph Spitfire (auto-X car)
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/rm302boss.html
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Mpcoluv
Gearhead Posts: 1004
From: Charlotte NC usa
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 04-25-2003 04:43 PM
quote:
Originally posted by MidLifCrisis:
Mpcoluv: Approx how much drop did you see cutting 3/4 of a coil? Did you notice any difference ride quality? Charlie
About 1 1/4" I would think.
The ride quality is fine. The spring is still softer than the TMC lowering springs.
Note: I only recomend cutting any coils with a die grinder not a torch!
BTW some the Eibach springs have several coils right on top of each other (like coil bind)at the top for the sole purpose of cutting them to adjust ride height and not change any spring rate. [This message has been edited by Mpcoluv (edited 04-25-2003).]
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67coupe
Gearhead Posts: 418
From: dallas NC usa
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 04-25-2003 05:36 PM
i cut one full coil off of mine ant it rides a little stiffer but still better than alot of aftermarket coils ive seen it gave me bout 2" lowering and ill agree cut them with a grinder torch will kill the spring temper------------------
Josh
67 coupe with 351c
8.41 in the 1/8
1.90 60'
at 82.03 mph
94 Explorer
30 model A currently rustbucket
in process 67 convt with efi 5.0 and t5
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SundanceKid
Gearhead Posts: 1094
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 04-26-2003 03:14 AM
I was going to post another spring info lesson again LOL...but after this being the fourth time...I'm gonna just paste my last one.Go here:
https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/006013.html
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SundanceKid
Gearhead Posts: 1094
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 04-26-2003 03:27 AM
NEVER use a torch!! And when using a grinder get the thinnest cut off wheel you can find. I actualy like to use a dremel tool. When I do springs I cut half way through the first spring; then switch to the second spring and cut it half way through; then I go back to the first spring and finish. Very minimal heat build up this way. It's not realy needed to take this much caution though.
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Toronado3800
Gearhead Posts: 364
From: St. Louis, MO
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 04-26-2003 11:01 PM
Woa, that's more math than it takes to figure out if the tires will still fit
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