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  How to; install cheap rear disc brakes on early iron..

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Author Topic:   How to; install cheap rear disc brakes on early iron..
rm302 boss
Gearhead

Posts: 680
From: Austin Texas
Registered: Dec 2002

posted 04-03-2003 11:05 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for rm302 boss   Click Here to Email rm302 boss     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have done this and it works very well and
is cheep/ easy.... I recommend this to any
one who wants more stopping power.. I
have used this system and total cost for me with used rotors and calipers was less than $200.00.
The stopping power is unbelievable...

Rene
******************************
Instructions for all other models-(Other than GM that is)-
Remove all of the old drum brake parts including the backing plate that
holds the brake shoes etc.
If you have TAPERED axles that use shims to set end play
(Studebaker, Dana, AMC) then you must pull
the hubs off the axles.
On later FLANGED axle Dana, Ford 8 in and 9 in, you
will have to slide the axles out in order to remove the drum brake
backing plates.

The new brackets are to be mounted so the calipers
will be above and to the rear of the rear axle.
Mount the rear brackets on the INBOARD side
of the axle housing flange. (behind the flange where the old brake backing
plate used to be)
With some bracket assemblies that have spacers attached to
the brackets, you can attain different offsets to accommodate different
rotors and axles by trading right side and left side brackets.
For some installations the brackets will be
mounted so the spacers will be directly against the housing flange.
Others will require that the bracket itself
be mounted so that it is
against the flange, leaving the spacers extending to the inboard side of
the bracket (swap right side bracket for left side bracket).
You can tell easily if you have the right
spacing if the INBOARD brake pad fits well between the bracket and the
rotor surface. If you have too little room to slip in a brake pad; then
you need the spacer side of the bracket against the housing.
IMPORTANT- on C-Clip rear ends (8.8 + 7.5 Ford,
and many GM) you MUST have the axles in the correct position as if they
were completely assembled, or the bracket offset will have to be changed
when they are finished. (the axles will move outboard some, after the
c-clips and center pin are installed)
/////////////////////////////////////////////

Use 1985 Cadillac Seville rear calipers with built in parking brakes. GM
front "Metric" calipers (mid 80's) will fit the brackets, but fronts do
not have the parking brake.
The same GM cars will supply the pads, guide pins etc.
/////////////////////////////////////////////

The rear rotors to use for the Dana 44, Dana 27, Ford
8 inch, and Ford 9 inch are-
For the large 5 on 5 inch bolt circle- use 1977 Lincoln and
Continental REAR rotors.
For the 5 on 4-1/2 inch "regular Ford" bolt circle, use the 1985 Lincoln
Mark7 rear rotors.
/////////////////////////////////////////////

With the Studebaker Dana 44 and 27 rears, use Dorman #
610-132 studs to replace the stock studs when using the re drilled 5 in
circle 1977 Lincoln rotors.
OR use the Dorman #610-085 studs for the 4-1/2 inch car bolt circle when
using the 1985 MK7 rotors on Studebaker.
//////////////////////////////////////////////
The rotors to use with the early+ mid 1980's on up Ford Mustang, Ranger,
and others using the 7.5 and 8.8 rear ends-
For the
4-lug (4-1/4 bolt circle) use the 1988 Turbo Coupe rear rotor.
For the 5-lug (4-1/2 circle) use the 1985 MK VII (mark 7) rear rotors. I
have been told by two Mustang owners that they have switched from 4-lug
to 5-lug by using TWO Driver side Ranger axles in their Mustang
housings- I have not done that myself.
//////////////////////////////////////////////

If you choose to buy the incidental parts (levers, return springs) from
a junkyard GM rear disc car you can save on price. If you want NEW GM
parts, then here are the GM part numbers-
Return Spring Bracket and Bolt--
GM-18005312-Left
GM-18005311-Right
Return Spring (need 2) - GM-180055822
E-Brake Levers-
GM-18003044-Left
GM-18003045-Right
10MM Banjo Bolts.
Brake Hose- Either mid 80's Camaro, Cad or Wagner part # F97661 Subject:
brakes+ parts The brake kit uses mid 80's and mid 90's Cadillac
calipers, and Lincoln rear rotors.
I recently bought some1985 Cad Seville rear calipers with built in
parking brakes from Car Quest for $67 each. That may sound pricey, but it
includes the parking brakes.
I bought the1985 Lincoln MK7 rear rotors for $68 each at Auto Zone. You
can either get the return springs, P-brake levers, etc from a salvage
yard for a few dollars or go to a GM dealer and buy them new for around
$80
Lokar has a universal parking brake cable kit
for around $80.00 if you need a new one. Using these OEM parts is the
lowest cost way to get rear disc brakes if you compare to the other
non-OEM brake suppliers.
//////////////////////////////////////////////

Here is a tip to save you $$$$

You can save $160- $200 by getting Cad caliper cores from
selectcore.com or a local junkyard ($75?), keeping the levers ect, then
using the calipers as trade-ins
ANSWERS TO COMMON QUESTIONS-
A couple customers have said that they spent around $320-$350 on their
disc conversion. I spent about $400 on mine
(9 inch swap) That is a
whole lot less than the usual
$600-$900 spent with other methods.
Use 1980 - 85 Cadillac (Seville, El Dorado etc) rear calipers with the
built in parking brakes.
I use 1985 Seville calipers on mine because I like the way that
the e-brake cables run along the leaf springs along the original drum
brake cable path.


Thank You
David Levesque
Steel Tech Solutions Inc
PO Box 1101
Marion IL 62959

------------------
1970 Boss 302
1990 Taurus SHO
1985 Mustang GT 351W
1995 Land rover Disco
1980 Triumph Spitfire (auto-X car)
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/rm302boss.html

[This message has been edited by rm302 boss (edited 04-06-2003).]

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rm302 boss
Gearhead

Posts: 680
From: Austin Texas
Registered: Dec 2002

posted 04-03-2003 11:11 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for rm302 boss   Click Here to Email rm302 boss     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Oh, David and Doug are master minds at brake problems... Drop them a line if you get in deep i have on several occasions..
Doug runs the on line stuff and has a few things on E-bay ( thank god for E-Bay). Here is a link... With lots of pictures..
I must warn those of you with weak stomachs there will be brand" C "stuff in there..
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewListedItems&userid=doug100
Rene

------------------
1970 Boss 302
1990 Taurus SHO
1985 Mustang GT 351W
1995 Land rover Disco
1980 Triumph Spitfire (auto-X car)
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/rm302boss.html

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rm302 boss
Gearhead

Posts: 680
From: Austin Texas
Registered: Dec 2002

posted 04-04-2003 02:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for rm302 boss   Click Here to Email rm302 boss     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I got two e mails asking the same question so i will post it here..
The backing plates with all the drum brake stuff are removed and discarder and the new caliper plates are bolted in the same place..
Rene

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Mpcoluv
Gearhead

Posts: 1268
From: Charlotte NC usa
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 04-06-2003 09:26 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mpcoluv   Click Here to Email Mpcoluv     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I use this setup (and bought the brackets from Doug).
My question is how do the Lokar E-brake cables hook up to the stock pedal?

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rm302 boss
Gearhead

Posts: 680
From: Austin Texas
Registered: Dec 2002

posted 04-06-2003 12:45 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for rm302 boss   Click Here to Email rm302 boss     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I used a universal one.. so i do not have a answer on that one. What's the difference between the lokor and others. i have never seen one thats why i ask?
Rene

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Mpcoluv
Gearhead

Posts: 1268
From: Charlotte NC usa
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 04-06-2003 04:51 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mpcoluv   Click Here to Email Mpcoluv     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by rm302 boss:
I used a universal one.. so i do not have a answer on that one. What's the difference between the lokor and others. i have never seen one thats why i ask?
Rene

The problem I have is that the stock cables are a little too long.
I have a loop made in one end with a cable clamp to take up the slack.
What "Universal" kit did you use?
The one sold at Pep Boys?

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rm302 boss
Gearhead

Posts: 680
From: Austin Texas
Registered: Dec 2002

posted 04-06-2003 09:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for rm302 boss   Click Here to Email rm302 boss     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
It was a GM application one i got for $17.00 at Car quest.. no loops.. Heck you could get the one off of the Cad that was original and use it my buddy did and it works and looks better than mine..

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rm302 boss
Gearhead

Posts: 680
From: Austin Texas
Registered: Dec 2002

posted 04-14-2003 01:05 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for rm302 boss   Click Here to Email rm302 boss     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I got two e-mails this weekend on this... So..
I picked up my rear caliper cores at a pull it your self salvage yard.. The main reason was you will need the brass 90' fitting on the caliper this fitting will fit right on your factory steel brake line...A banjo style bolt then attaches it to the caliper. This makes for a very clean install....
Rene

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TomP
Gearhead

Posts: 5626
From: Delta BC Canada
Registered: Dec 99

posted 04-17-2003 05:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for TomP   Click Here to Email TomP     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
It's a much better idea to use newer stuff than mid 80's. You can get lightweight parts that stop better and will have replacements available in the future. 92-up Crown Vic, Explorers ,Mustangs ,Nissans and Toyotas all have 5 on 4 1/2" rear discs

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