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Author
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Topic: Chroming pot metal - blow by blow?
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Fastback68
Gearhead Posts: 1880
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 03-17-2003 10:03 AM
   
(Heh Sam, I hope you're listening 'cos I know you know this stuff!)
Before I chromed the hood and side louvers on my 68 and they came out looking lousy. I'm now going hunting for a new chromer. I remember Sam said it IS possible to chrome pot metal and make it look great, if you don't have to worry about the EPA - which I don't.
Does anyone know the stage-by-stage process? I want to quiz the chromer before handing over the job.
Many thanks,
Simon
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mustangs68
Moderator Posts: 18494
From: Hampton,Virginia,USA MCA#39406 M&M #12
Registered: May 99
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posted 03-17-2003 05:06 PM
Simon your finish will only be as good as what you start with  I've been out of Plating since '91 so I'm not up on current trends in Chemicals. But the "old way" was a good electro-plating of bright nickel sulfate with a pre treatment etching with a acid solution (sulfuric or hydrochloric).
sam
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Fastback68
Gearhead Posts: 1880
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 03-17-2003 09:12 PM
Are you saying that the technique is less important than the quality of the pot metal in the first place?
The louvers I already had chromed (I have spares, not chromed) are in OK condition, but the chrome failed to "take" on certain parts, and flaked off right away. Would this be a problem with the metal, or in the work of the chromer?
Also, if you were me, would you ask for the chromed louvers to be rechromed, or would you start with a fresh set?
Thanks fella!
Simon
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mustangs68
Moderator Posts: 18494
From: Hampton,Virginia,USA MCA#39406 M&M #12
Registered: May 99
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posted 03-17-2003 10:34 PM
Both Simon,
If the metal to plate isn't the best (poor grade) and if the pre-treatment isn't done properly it will peel/nor get a good coverage/adherenceAsk if they can do a copper plating before the Bright Nickle this may help but added to the costs. Are they using Electro-plating or Catalyst bath..in other words a reactive bath with out current. Simon I plated on Sliver with Nickle Sufamate Bath (dull finish)then had them bulked soldered at 450 degs F in 4% silver solder..dang they looked good
(Capacitors) take a look at these two pages: http://www.finishing.com/Library/brightnickel.html http://www.tigametal.com/nickel_current_fall_2000.htm#trouble
[This message has been edited by mustangs68 (edited 03-17-2003).]
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