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Author
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Topic: Tremec 5spd install complete!
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SundanceKid
Gearhead Posts: 1094
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 03-14-2003 12:06 AM
   
As some of you may remember about 7 months ago I started the install of a Tremec 3550 into my 65 Mustang. Why did it take so long? Well, I tried every possible way to install the trans properly without cutting the floor. A total of three differant ways.I finaly gave in and determined there is no possible way to do it, and maintain a proper engine/driveline angle, without cutting the floor. I have pictures that I would like to share if anyone is interested. I have no clue how to post them on M&M. Other boards have neat little pip programs? Steve, I don't have a website can I E-mail them to you or?
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 34763
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 03-14-2003 08:54 AM
You've got mail.  ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Please remember our sponsors,
Mustangs Plus, NPD, Osborn Reproductions, MyFordPerformance.com, and FordRamAir.com
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SundanceKid
Gearhead Posts: 1094
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 03-14-2003 11:23 PM
Steve I E-mailed the write up to you. Let me know if you received it ok.
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66project
Journeyman Posts: 25
From: Abilene TX USA
Registered: Jan 2003
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posted 03-16-2003 05:07 AM
I'm doing the same thing to my '66 coupe, but figured the robust tranny and 9" rear wouldn't have any problems with a "slightly off" driveline alignment. I wouldn't think this would be a problem unless you're running mega horsepower. I've heard of others making the swap with no U joint problems (which is where I'd think problems might exist) after 15K miles or more...even with the driveline at a slight angle.
Should I be concerned, or are you just a perfectionist?
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2bav8
Gearhead Posts: 207
From: Mesa, AZ
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 03-16-2003 05:39 AM
After having yet another trip down the quarter mile with my "improper" drive line angle last week I managed to have no mechanical problems with my Tremec. Didn't have a lot of traction witb the 347, but I blame the street tires for that...------------------
2BAV8 Mustang
www.geocities.com/2bav8
'66 347 V8 powered Coupe
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Stang28965
Gearhead Posts: 412
From: Webster New York USA
Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 03-16-2003 08:25 AM
I have always wanted to do this swap! What did it end up costing you guys? I can do the install and the welding, So thats not a problem.
Thanks!
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SundanceKid
Gearhead Posts: 1094
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 03-16-2003 12:01 PM
66project, Yes I am a perfectionist!  The
Drive line angles are of no concern though. If you match the rearend angles with the transmission angle basicly cancel the two out (trans 6 down rearend 6 up) there wont be any vibration problems. As for traction and U-joint strength that remains to be seen? The main problems, and I'm not saying you can't install the trans at 6 degrees, is engine oil and transmission oil. I E-mailed Tremec a while back and recieved a reply from them that the transmission was designed to be at 2-3 degrees. At 6 degrees the oil sump will not be at the "proper" angle. There would be too much lube in the tail shaft and not enough in the sump to keep the gears cool. Unless you over fill it, which is an option. Also with the Mustang having a front sump this would also be a concern. Steve, last night I remembered I needed to add a few parts to the parts list and go over bellhousing options.
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SundanceKid
Gearhead Posts: 1094
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 03-16-2003 12:04 PM
Oh, and on the perfectionist note. I didn't personaly like the fact that the tailshaft hung so far below the frame rails. At 3 degrees the only part of the trans that is lower then the frame now is a little "nub" at the very bottom. I will hit the scatter shield long before the trans now.
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66project
Journeyman Posts: 25
From: Abilene TX USA
Registered: Jan 2003
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posted 03-16-2003 05:05 PM
I planned on building a slightly modified skidplate, and I have a rear sump oil pan, so I'm not too concerned.
As far as price goes, it depends what you're starting with. I had an automatic 289, and changed over to a manual 302...which means I needed everything. I'm still installing it, but I think I've acquired most of the necessary parts. Tranny ran about $1300. Bell housing, clutch, flywheel, ran about $800...of course this will vary slightly depending on what you go with. Hydraulic clutch kits run about $420 from Mustangs Plus, if you decide on that. Let's see, that's $2520 plus any driveline changes. I also had to buy pedals. You can buy a crossmember for $129 from Dark Horse Performance. Overall, I've spent about $2800 on this modification...and all I have left to pay for is a new driveline. If you are putting a Tremec in, you might as well put a 9" rear end in. My rear end cost me about $2200 with disk brakes...but I had all the work done at a local shop. I suspect you can upgrade for less than $1200 if you do all the work yourself and do some salvage yard scouting.
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65racecoupe
Gearhead Posts: 126
From: Layton UT,
Registered: May 2002
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posted 03-17-2003 04:00 AM
Yeah, but 2bav8, you don't really need much HP to run 15's. How many degrees does the engine tilt @ 1 inch (like you state in your 5 speed swap article on your web page). Since you have had no problems, I assume that it is an acceptable way to install. I am just going to install mine the way you did, Matt, and hope for the best. I got all my stuff at Dark Horse BTW. IMPORTANT - What kind of motor mounts do I use for my 65 coupe 331 to help (or at least not hurt) my TKO install? What brand, year, etc? Thanks guys.
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SundanceKid
Gearhead Posts: 1094
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 03-17-2003 12:15 PM
I would recomend the 65 mounts. They will help your angle situation.
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