What are the general steps to remove a 3 speed manual transmission from a '66 mustang with a 289? My experience to this day has been with C4s only. I can R&R a C4 no problem.

I've never looked under the car of a 3 speed manual equipped mustang yet, but I will finally be doing the swap on my uncles car next week!! Here's what I have so far.

1. Lift car high enough to slide a trans underneath
2. Remove driveshaft, speedo cable
3. Remove clutch cable/linkage if any (I assume, not sure)
4. Support motor and trans
5. Unbolt bellhousing and lower trans
6. Remove shifter linkage
7. Unbolt flywheel
8. Install C4

Is that the proper steps? I've heard about a clutch z-bar, but have no clue where it is or when it should be removed in the steps above. Also, is the shifter linkage attached to the transmission? Does it drop out as one piece? I remember Todd mentioning that I could re-use the manual trans mount for the C4.

It looks like we are complete in terms of parts for the C4 conversion -minus the automatic brake pedal, but that can come later.

Thanks in advance.

Erik

P.S. Oh, I almost forgot an important part. Being that his car is a '66, will his GAS pedal have a connection available for the kickdown cable coming from the C4?

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1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress

Then you'll want to swap the manual engine transmission plate for one for a C4.

Then you install the flexplate, then put the C4 in place.

The clutch Z-bar runs horizonally from the frame to the side of the engine near the bellhousing. One rod goes to your clutch pedal, the other to the clutch fork.

The shift linkage goes from the shifter to the shift levers on the transmission. Disconnect them at the shift levers, then unbolt the shifter from the tailshaft of the transmission and drop it. You'll need to remove the shifter ball and shifter boot first.

The C4 uses a kick down rod from the accelerator linkage on the carburetor to the kick down linkage on the transmission shift lever. It doesn't attach to the gas pedal.

You'll also need to rig up a cooler for the transmission, your radiator doesn't have provisions for that if it's original.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150

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quote:

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Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
The C4 uses a kick down rod from the accelerator linkage on the carburetor to the kick down linkage on the transmission shift lever. It doesn't attach to the gas pedal.

You'll also need to rig up a cooler for the transmission, your radiator doesn't have provisions for that if it's original.

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Thanks Steve!!

The '66 mustang has an extra rod that is attached/welded to gas pedal linkage and runs down parallel to the gas pedal. That attaches to a small cable near the transmission shift lever.

We have a 2-row radiator that's has automatic cooler fittings.

If i'm not able to find an accelerator pedel, I guess I could look for a kickdown lever that attaches to the carburetor.

Thanks.

Erik

p.s. Here's a link to the kickdown cable.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2406085291&category=34208

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1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress

1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
Dad's - Original Unrestored

quote:

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Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
After #7, you'll need to remove the pilot bearing from the end of the crankshaft. Otherwise it will bear against the snout on the torque converter and wear out your transmission's front pump.

Then you'll want to swap the manual engine transmission plate for one for a C4.

Then you install the flexplate, then put the C4 in place.

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Hey SteveL, I'm not sure how the pilot bearing will look like, but is it hard to remove? Will regular hand tools work?

Also, could you give some advice on how to remove and install u-joints? I've got a c4 yoke attached to an old driveshaft and I need to remove that yoke and install it into the original driveshaft that's in the car. If the u-joints on the car are ok, it should be ok to mount the c4 yoke on it right?

Thanks in advance.

Erik

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1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress

quote:

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Originally posted by rockafellz:
Hey SteveL, I'm not sure how the pilot bearing will look like, but is it hard to remove? Will regular hand tools work?

Also, could you give some advice on how to remove and install u-joints? I've got a c4 yoke attached to an old driveshaft and I need to remove that yoke and install it into the original driveshaft that's in the car. If the u-joints on the car are ok, it should be ok to mount the c4 yoke on it right?

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Sure, the pilot bearing sits in a bore at the very back of the crankshaft. The input shaft of the transmission rides in it. If you have a rod that fits the bearing pretty well, you can half fill the pilot bore with grease, put the rod in the bore and tap it. Hydraulic pressure will push the bearing out. Most of the time. Pros use a pilot bearing removal tool that grips the inside bore of the bearing and pulls it right out. You may be able to borrow this tool from a Autozone for free.

On the u-joints:
First, I remove the retaining clips off the yoke. Then I like to change my u-joints in my vise. I open it right up, put a large socket {about 1 1/8" or so} on one side, which bears on the outside of the u-joint bearing bore, then on the opposite side I put a 9/16" socket on the opposite u-joint bearing cap. Then I use the vise to drive the u-joint out. Works slick, and you never leave a mark anywhere.

You'll be fine reusing the u-joints. Just give them a good cleaning, check for wear and/or bluing, and then give then a little lube, then grease them after you reassemble the u-joints to the yoke.

When you reassemble the u-joint, remember the zerk/grease fittings point towards each other. Otherwise, you wont be able to get at the grease fittings after you install the driveshaft.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150

Please remember our sponsors,
Mustangs Plus, NPD, Osborn Reproductions, MyFordPerformance.com, and FordRamAir.com

Disregard removal of pilot bearing, use new. When reassembling z-bar use new nylon ball rollers and felts. These come in a z-bar repair kit (Scott Drake Mustang). Resurface flywheel at machine shop and install new clutch and pressure plate. While transmission is out, open inspection plate and have qualified rebuilder evaluate condition of gears, synchros, etc. Repair as necessary. Do same for shifter.

Reinstall in swap car in reverse order of disassembly.

quote:

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Originally posted by Jeff:
Disregard removal of pilot bearing, use new.

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Not sure what you mean by this, but he is taking out a 3 speed standard and installing a C4 automatic.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150

That's a lot of stuff that I have no idea how they look like.

I hope it's easier than it sounds. I just plan to unbolt whatever gets in my way. Would it be safe to say that?

Erik

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1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress

Thanks in advance.

Erik

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1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress

quote:

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The 3-speed is easier than the automatic.
TRANSMISSION
1. Lift car. Drain gear grease from trans.
2. Remove rear universal joint and pull driveshaft.
3. Remove speedo cable.
4. Remove shifter/linkage.
5. Prop bell housing/engine and remove transmission mount crossmember.
6. Unbolt and slide transmission out of clutch case. Transmission should be supported and not allowed to deviate from straight line until the input shaft/gear is clear of the bell housing. If you allow side forces on the clutch plate while the transmission is coming out you can bend the clutch plate and this will kill it.
CLUTCH
1. Remove clutch linkage. This consists of pedal, overcenter spring, upper pushrod, z-bar/equalizer, engine ball pivot, frame ball pivot, lower pushrod, lower spring.
2. Remove fork boot.
3. Remove starter.
4. Remove bell housing. Fork will come out with bell housing, watch for fork hairspring, it may fall out. It looks like a bobby pin so its fairly small and easily lost. Some forks have these, some don't.
5. Remove pressure plate and clutch disc.
6. Remove flywheel

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"UNTIL" he gets to putting it back together as he seems to have missed that you are swapping in a C-4 whaere a 3-speed manual used to be.
Do yourself a favor and print out his advice along with Steve's concerning the pilot bearing/bushing and tack up the printout in your work area for reference.
Follow his steps to the letter, starting by unscrewing the square headed drain plug form the bottom of your 3-speed( if you have a tansmission model with no drain plug, you can mostly drain it by removing the lower most bolt that holds the transmission's tail housing on) and try your best to avoid spillage, as old gear oil is nasty stuff to clean up and stinks even worse!!
If you follow these steps exactly, ALL MYSTERY WILL BE REVEALED TO YOU!

I would like to expand on "TRANSMISSION step # 5": Prop engine/bellhousing by putting your floor jack under the bellhousing and lift slightly so that you can easily unbolt the rubber/steel motor mount from the rear of the trans. and or rear cross member that supports the rear of the trans. jack it just a bit more to make it easier to remove the crossmember completely. After crossmember is removed lower your jack enough that it holds just a little of the weight. this will tilt the rear of the trans. down to give you more clearance for removal. Be aware that if your trans is not fully drained, gear oil will trickle out of the end of the tailhousing making either a messy puddle on the ground or your chest/shoulder/face/hair. When everything else is out follow Steve's advice about the pilot, as it is in the rear end of the crankshaft.
After you have successfully mastered the ins & outs (2 thirds of a pun "P-U" ) of transmissions, I would be more than pleased to purchase the stick from your 3-speed shifter for a fair price, plus shipping of course.
Good luck, once you get started it's not nearly as difficult or complicated as it sounds. JUST FOLLOW THE STEPS IN ORDER. Let us all know how you make out.
*******************
gene (horseballz)

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'68 coupe
289/3speed(soon to
be 5.0/5speed)
'85 F150 Beater
300/Overdrive Stick
Pre-dented&scratched
'02 Ranger 4x4 Edge
'02 Miata

[This message has been edited by horseballz (edited 03-11-2003).]

[This message has been edited by horseballz (edited 03-12-2003).]

[This message has been edited by horseballz (edited 03-12-2003).]

Hey Gene (Hballz), Jeff, SteveL and everyone else.

I started work on the swap this afternoon. I only had about 1.5 hrs. to work on it. Here's what I accomplished so far.

1. Lifted car
2. Unbolted exhaust (it's a stock dual and I couldn't pull the exhaust back enough to bring it down completely, so for now it's just partially hanging.)
3. Removed driveshaft
4. Removed upper clutch pedal spring, lower spring, piston, and z-bar (I think).

I couldn't find the drain plug so I came back home to read this post and figured out I could unscrew the lower tailshaft bolt.

I've got to remember to bring my protective glasses and mask. Never being under my uncle's car, I got an eyeful of dirt and grime.

More to come hopefully during the week.

Erik

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1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress

My uncle and I accomplished a lot today. We pulled the manual 3 speed and finally got the c4 installed. The clutch disc was missing a whole 1.5" chunk of disc. And we screwed up a u-joint so we had to buy a new one. What's the easiest way to install the new u-joint without screwing up the needle bearings?

On a positive note, my uncle's 3 row radiator has inlet/outlet ports for the trans cooler lines.

Also, I plugged the 3 speed manual speedometer cable right into the c4. Is that ok?

And the shifter has 2 wires coming from it, the trans also has 2 wires coming from it. Where do those connect to?

The only thing left to do tomorrow is:

-connect trans cooler lines
-run vacuum line
-install u-joint and connect driveshaft
-connect neutral saftey switch
-add Type F fluid and start hopefully!!

Thanks in advance.

Erik

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1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress