|
Author
|
Topic: Last Problem (hopefully): Radiator
|
MidLifCrisis
Gearhead Posts: 300
From: USA
Registered: Oct 2001
|
posted 03-06-2003 09:28 PM
   
When doing the engine rebuild, I replaced the two core radiator with a three core from a reputable Mustang parts supplier. (my '67 is a 289 auto with no A/C) When the motor was finished and ready to go, the hood would not close. It was hitting the radiator cap. I compared old versus new, and the old radiator was 21" in total height, but the new is approx 21-5/8. The old core is 16-1/4" in height and the new is 16-1/2". I checked with another parts house and they had a 21-3/4" tall radiator. Has anyone else run into this? There is only a fingers width of space under the radiator, so lowering is out of the question. I figure either the old radiator should be recored, or the new one should have the tank lowered. What do you gus think. I am dying to drive this thing. Thanks, Charlie[This message has been edited by MidLifCrisis (edited 03-07-2003).]
IP: Logged |
Fastback68
Gearhead Posts: 1880
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99
|
posted 03-06-2003 09:42 PM
Ooooo ... I don't know if I'll be helping here, or just confusing things.
In 68 (67 may be the same), big blocks and small block V8s with A/C came with radiators that sat in two mounts bolted to the chassis, rather than bolted to the radiator support. My hunch is that the big block radiators sit a little lower.
Is your radiator bolted to the radiator support or does it sit in the mounts. If the former, it could be all you need to do is buy the mounts. They're easy to fabricate if you have a pattern, or NPD sells them.
Simon
IP: Logged |
aGreenAgent
Gearhead Posts: 139
From: Orange County, CA
Registered: Oct 2002
|
posted 03-06-2003 09:45 PM
I haven't measured mine, and I should look into that before I get a new radiator. Oh, and that's NEVER the last problem 
IP: Logged |
Boss66
Gearhead Posts: 167
From: Tucson, AZ
Registered: Feb 2000
|
posted 03-07-2003 12:52 PM
You could cut a hole in your hood.Sorry, that's not funny. Boss66 ------------------
1966 Coupe
72 HO 351c 4v open
282S cam, Strip Dom int
MSD 6al
Tubular Auto Swap Headers
toploader 4sp
9" 3.70 rear
IP: Logged |
MidLifCrisis
Gearhead Posts: 300
From: USA
Registered: Oct 2001
|
posted 03-07-2003 07:09 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Boss66:
You could cut a hole in your hood.
Boss66.. yikes...that's exactly what my (chevy) buddy said! He said to make it large enough to stick the carb out as well.
I have corrected the dimensions in the original post. I had posted from memory previously. I am going to do some further checking on the mounting hole spacing in relation to the top of the radiator. Charlie
IP: Logged |
SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 34763
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
|
posted 03-07-2003 07:17 PM
Are you using a cap with a pressure relief lever? If so you could swap to a more compact cap.A finger's width at the bottom? That's 3/4" you could lower it. What does the supplier say about this? ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Please remember our sponsors,
Mustangs Plus, NPD, Osborn Reproductions, MyFordPerformance.com, and FordRamAir.com
IP: Logged |
Fastback68
Gearhead Posts: 1880
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99
|
posted 03-07-2003 07:27 PM
The fact that you're talking about "mounting holes" confirms (I think) that your rad is bolted to the radiator support. You should definitely look into the perch-type mounts I was trying to describe. Steve's right ... you've got 3/4 of an inch to work with.
IP: Logged |
Mustangsandmore Forums
UBBFriend: Email This Page to Someone! 
