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  '64 1/2 to '68 1/2 -- The Classic Mustang
  another duraspark post

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Author Topic:   another duraspark post
indyphil
Gearhead

Posts: 3394
From: Senoia, G.A. USA
Registered: Jul 2002

posted 02-22-2003 07:18 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for indyphil        Reply w/Quote
dont mean to be a bore but i bought a duraspark and although my points distributor is working good I will make the upgrade this summer.

Thing i am confused about is should the red wire to the module get a full swithed 12 volts, or should it hook up to the old coil wire fed through the resistor wire (meaning about 6-9 volts)?

these two sites seem to conflict with each other:
http://home.cfl.rr.com/mustangsix/Engine/duraspark.htm
http://www.mustangsteve.com/conversion.html

the first site suggests using a switched 12 volt source bypassing the resistor wire

Steves diagram shows hooking up to the old coil wire AFTER the resistor wire.

which one is correct?

One more thing, Alex, if you read this are you still selling blue ford motorsport wires? and can you sell me a cap and rotor with male terminals to go with it?

thanks ya'll

------------------
'68 coupe 289 C code
edel 600cfm carb, performer intake, dual exhaust

66bluefb
Gearhead

Posts: 537
From: Okla.City,Okla.
Registered: May 2002

posted 02-22-2003 10:47 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 66bluefb        Reply w/Quote
I hooked mine up like mustang steve and have had no problem.

------------------

http://ourworld.cs.com/blagintony/myhomepage/auto.html
86-302 HO bored .030 over crank .010 under,
B-303 cam ,harland sharp roller rockers,
performer rpm intake, 625 carter
66-289 heads, ported with 160-194 valves, 3 angle valve job,
4 speed toploader, 85 duraspark ignition, pony interior,the who,the doors,and ccr full blast on the stereo

Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 29200
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 02-23-2003 12:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker        Reply w/Quote
The Duraspark needs a full 12v for best performance.
Yes, and yes Phil.

------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator

NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,&'03
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl

Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
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Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com

rm302 boss
Gearhead

Posts: 680
From: Austin Texas
Registered: Dec 2002

posted 02-25-2003 12:17 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for rm302 boss        Reply w/Quote
Remember three things on a Dura-spark... .1). There are two positive wire's one red and one white, one is 12 volt run and one is 12 volt start.
2).The module must have a good ground to the case of the unit.... 3). mount the module as far away for heat as possible..
Rene

------------------
1970 Boss 302
1990 Taurus SHO
1985 Mustang GT 351W
1995 Land rover Disco
1980 Triumph Spitfire (auto-X car)

tomstir
Gearhead

Posts: 138
From: San Jose CA USA
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 02-25-2003 09:32 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for tomstir        Reply w/Quote
Not trying to hijack your post but I had a question. The white wire on my box is not hooked up to anything. Is that bad? Will it cause problems?

thanks
Tomstir

rm302 boss
Gearhead

Posts: 680
From: Austin Texas
Registered: Dec 2002

posted 02-25-2003 10:00 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for rm302 boss        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by tomstir:
Not trying to hijack your post but I had a question. The white wire on my box is not hooked up to anything. Is that bad? Will it cause problems?

thanks
Tomstir


The white wire should go to a 12 volt start. Tap the wire that goes to the starter relay to excite the starter. You will have a lot faster cold starts...
Rene

indyphil
Gearhead

Posts: 3394
From: Senoia, G.A. USA
Registered: Jul 2002

posted 02-25-2003 12:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for indyphil        Reply w/Quote
According to the first of the two websites the white wire is a starting wire that retards the timing a few degrees to reduce the load on the starter while cranking. it doesnt need to be hooked up, and its also suggested that you could use this for a cheap nitrous retard device. I dont know how many degrees it retards the timing.

tomstir
Gearhead

Posts: 138
From: San Jose CA USA
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 02-27-2003 08:46 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for tomstir        Reply w/Quote
It has never been hooked up since I bought the car. Thanks for the info

Tomstir

DidgeyTrucker
Gearhead

Posts: 1813
From: Greenbrier, TN USA
Registered: Oct 99

posted 02-27-2003 11:06 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for DidgeyTrucker        Reply w/Quote
The case needs to be grounded? My '78 F-150 has a module just floating on the inner fender.

Tracy

indyphil
Gearhead

Posts: 3394
From: Senoia, G.A. USA
Registered: Jul 2002

posted 02-28-2003 07:34 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for indyphil        Reply w/Quote
I thought that so long as the black wire is grounded everything would be ok. The black wire runs to the distributor and is terminated inside as a ground wire. It would seem redundant to ground the case as well. Im no expert, perhaps it helps a different part of the circuit.

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