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  full length floor pan or separate pieces

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Author Topic:   full length floor pan or separate pieces
msmyth
Journeyman

Posts: 9
From: Toledo, Ohio
Registered: Feb 2003

posted 02-20-2003 08:16 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for msmyth   Click Here to Email msmyth     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote

I'm getting ready to install new floor pans in my 68 Fastback. Which is better...full length pans or individual pieces (short pan, rear foot well)? I've looked through previous posts, and this wasn't touched on.

Thanks

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Trailer_Trash
Gearhead

Posts: 428
From: Alpharetta, Ga, US
Registered: Jan 2003

posted 02-20-2003 08:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Trailer_Trash   Click Here to Email Trailer_Trash     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
first, welcome to M&M

i am also replacing the floorpans in my 66. the best and cheapest way to go is go buy a kit or get full length floor pans.

what all do you need? you obviously need the full floor pans, but do you need the toeboard, seat mounts, and rear floor extensions?

[This message has been edited by Trailer_Trash (edited 02-20-2003).]

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rm302 boss
Moderator

Posts: 578
From: Austin Texas
Registered: Dec 2002

posted 02-20-2003 08:45 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for rm302 boss   Click Here to Email rm302 boss     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Well i have done both and hated every second of it.. I would say the better of the two evils is to do the full length ones.. The job comes out much better and is a stronger than the multable pices. the trick is to cut just above where the floor pan rolls in to the flat bottom this way the new piece just drops in. i have re used the old seat mounts (( the box that the front seat sits and bolts on)) and i have bought new ones. The old ones are stronger but where ever there is rusty metal they are real hard to weld and very hard to hide" the welds thst is". I would go with new ones if you can afford it. MOST INPORTANT is to only do one side at a time... the car gets very weak and i have heard storys about doors not closing after both sides were done at the same time. Not to mention it is all ways good to have points of refrence and measurement.
Here is a tip on hidding seams and new welds...
After all of the "fun" stuff is over do not paint it yet. Get a tube a seam sealer "NOT SILICONE" and start running a bead where ever there is a seam. While it is still wet wear a rubber glove and dip you finger in paint thinner or mineral spirits and smooth them out. you will not be able to tell there ever was a seam there... the paint tinner will not let the sealer stick to your finger and the result is very nice... Not to mention you guys up north there is no seam to fill with salt and road grime... Then lay a good coar of paint.... you will be very pleased with the result.. I have done this a few times.. It may show...

------------------
1970 Boss 302
1990 Taurus SHO
1985 Mustang GT 351W
1995 Land rover Disco
1980 Triumph Spitfire (auto-X car)

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bill haab
Gearhead

Posts: 109
From: south bend in.
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 02-20-2003 09:06 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for bill haab   Click Here to Email bill haab     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
the last post is a all you need to read. well put. and have been there.

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msmyth
Journeyman

Posts: 9
From: Toledo, Ohio
Registered: Feb 2003

posted 02-21-2003 04:48 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for msmyth   Click Here to Email msmyth     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thank you all very much. I'll let you know how my project turns out.

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