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Author
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Topic: radio suppression condenser
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rcrill
Journeyman Posts: 16
From: Longmont, Colorado
Registered: Feb 2003
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posted 02-17-2003 04:16 PM
   
NPD tells me that these condensers for a '65 are now over $100 
This thing in only a capacitor, after all! Does anyone know the capacitance & voltage rating? It shouldn't be too hard to fabricate a replacement with modern components.
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SundanceKid
Gearhead Posts: 970
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 02-17-2003 04:34 PM
I would think that with good modern wires that a capacitor wouldn't be nessesary. If you need one jeeps came with them up until 1991 with a ford duraspark disributor.
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SundanceKid
Gearhead Posts: 970
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 02-17-2003 04:42 PM
Taken from a web siteTHE CAPACITOR Only one component of the circuit needs some more explanation. That is the capacitor. It has two functions. When the contact points open, the current will try to jump the gap, giving sparks. These sparks are in the first place destructive for the points, but they also delay the current cut-off. That would reduce the strength of the self-induction peak. The capacitor works as a reservoir, and thus prevents this arcing across the points. The other function has to do with the 'sparktail'. After the first tensionpeak, the capacitor releases its energy into the coil, and because it is an open circuit now (points open) this current bounces up and down a couple of times, until it damps out. These oscillations are again transformed to the high-tension coil. The result is that the spark is maintained for a while, so it can reliably ignite the fuel. Normal values for an ignition capacitor are between 0.1 and 1 ?F. This is not very critical because it is a compromise anyway. At low rpm?s you need a bigger capacitor then at higher revs. So the engine designer chooses a value that is most suitable for that application. A fairly vague assumption. More important is that the capacitor is functioning properly. Because they usually quit when you least expect it, and you can?t diagnose or repair them, you should carry a spare one. There are basically three modes of malfunctioning. A completely shorted capacitor prevents any spark to occur at all. A capacitor with an internal break can?t absorb the electrons anymore, so you will see a lot of sparks at the ignition points. A weak spark at the plug is the result. Finally a capacitor with an internal leak. It will probably work for a while, but especially when hot, the engine gets hard to start. When you have ignition troubles, and you don?t see something obvious amiss, it is a good idea to change the capacitor before delving into the points etc.
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mustangs68
Moderator Posts: 17504
From: Hampton,Virginia,USA MCA#39406 M&M #12
Registered: May 99
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posted 02-17-2003 07:49 PM
I hope they have MCD stamped on them..if so there the best made in the world..
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Jeff
Gearhead Posts: 253
From: Moore, OK USA
Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 02-18-2003 11:02 AM
Ignition capacitors and radio suppression capacitors serve two different functions. For ignition, the value of the capacitor is more critical than you may think. If its off value, points will pit much more readily. You can tell if its high or low on capacitance by which side of the points pit and which side have excess metal. Its really neither here nor there but if your points are pitting, replace the capacitor (condenser).Radio suppression capacitors are in the harness to prevent unwanted noise from affecting AM radio. Note that FM is more noise immune anyway. The capacitor serves as a bypass to ground for high frequencies, hence, "static" noise from the ignition system is grounded by the capacitor. The cost of the original capacitors for alternator and regulator is outrageous considering the capacitors are still being manufactured. I used capacitors for GM cars since they are easier to find. The connectors have to be changed to Ford type connectors. I went through the NAPA catalog (at the store) and picked two for the job. No one ever notices they aren't Ford (neither does the radio).
See your NAPA parts store. I will post the NAPA part numbers I used if anyone is interested. [This message has been edited by Jeff (edited 02-18-2003).]
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