Author
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Topic: 65 Mustang Inner Rocker Panel
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Rick1 Journeyman Posts: 4 From: Brighton, MI Registered: Nov 2002
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posted 02-07-2003 03:41 PM
Recently I purchased a '65 Mustang convert. I began restoring it and have found among other thing it needs new innner rocker panels. Is there a good souce or can anyone give me recommendations on how to remove the old inner rocker panels and replace. I have a welder and all the equipment. I also am replacing much of the sheet metal and would like to replace the outer rocker panels. Should this be done at the same time?
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Wicked-Toy Gearhead Posts: 175 From: Richmond, VA USA Registered: Jun 99
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posted 02-07-2003 04:18 PM
I just did both sides on my 66 Conv project. I purchased the inner and outer rockers thru NPD. You will need to weld them together to make the complete thing. I removed the rockers and the front torque box at the same time as the torque boxes were shot also. You might want to check yours as they are probably in the same condition as the inner rocker. Do one side at a time to help keep the car square. My outer rockers probably could have been reused but I didnt feel like going thru the hassle to seperate the two pieces. I also left the seat riser in place to help give a good reference for gtting everything back in the same place. It was not as bad a job as I thought. Dont ask me how I feel about rear frame rails. To get the rails out of the car you will need to drill a bunch of spot welds at the torque box and the seat riser. The are some small tack welds in behind the rear window also so that will need to come out. Good Luck ------------------ Scott Akom 65 Coupe (Modified) 68 Coupe (Son's) 2000 GT Conv. (Wifes) 1987 GT Conv. (Son's) 1966 Project Conv.[URL=http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/3845/65dsde2.jpg www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/WickedToy.html [This message has been edited by Wicked-Toy (edited 02-07-2003).]
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cynot65 Gearhead Posts: 1002 From: New York Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 02-07-2003 05:21 PM
Having bought those through NPD also I can say that they were real good and went in very well. You say that you have a welder and all the equipment and that's good but, do you have enough experience to weld a very important part of your car? If you dont' leave it to someone who does and possibly done rockers. Definitely look at the torque boxes too. What I'm suggesting is going to cost more but peace of mind is priceless. Tony C*------------------ 65 Convertible, Vintage Burgandy/Standard Black Interior, 289, 4spd M&M Member#450 It ain't done yet, but it'll be done right!!
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Rick1 Journeyman Posts: 4 From: Brighton, MI Registered: Nov 2002
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posted 02-11-2003 12:36 PM
Thanks for the post. I have done some welding and feel confortable with it. I have started to cut out the inner rockers but have not touched the outer rockers. There are three layers of steel welded together. I am assuming the middle layer is the floor pan but the floor pans are rusted and I cannot tell. I am planning on replacing torque boxes but again they are rusted to the point that I cannot tell how the attach. This is just a hobby project so I plan to take it slow. I will be buying the replacement parts shortly which should give me a clue as to how to re-assemble. All advise is appreciated.
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Wicked-Toy Gearhead Posts: 175 From: Richmond, VA USA Registered: Jun 99
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posted 02-11-2003 03:46 PM
If you had the new parts in hand it would help you see how it all fits together. The torque box connects the side rail to the front rail. I sort of cut what was left of mine out in one piece. There are five or six big spot welds at the seat riser that must be drilled out. The torque box is also spot welded to the front floor pan in a couple of places. There are some smaller sort of tack welds at the front kick panels and behind the rear qtr window. Once you get started cutting and drilling it will be clear. Get a good spot weld cutter and a sawsall for sure. An air grinder with a cut off wheel is handy also. You want to go ahead and cut the inner and outer rails out together as the are many spot welds holding them together. Good Luck------------------ Scott Akom 65 Coupe (Modified) 68 Coupe (Son's) 2000 GT Conv. (Wifes) 1987 GT Conv. (Son's) 1966 Project Conv.[URL=http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/3845/65dsde2.jpg www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/WickedToy.html [This message has been edited by Wicked-Toy (edited 02-11-2003).]
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 34763 From: Saco, Maine Registered: May 99
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posted 02-11-2003 04:26 PM
A good tip is to never cut out the old sheetmetal until you have the replacement panels in hand.------------------ '70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Please remember our sponsors, Mustangs Plus, NPD, Osborn Reproductions, MyFordPerformance.com, and FordRamAir.com
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RonnieT Gearhead Posts: 685 From: Port Allen, La. 70767 Registered: Jun 99
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posted 02-11-2003 08:03 PM
Here is a site that shows the replacement of the complete floors in a 66, including the torque boxes and inner rockers. The picyures wil give you some ideal of how things are supposed to attach.http://www.karmustang.com/RESTO1.HTM ------------------ Ronnie 69 mach1 351W-4V engineless at the time! 70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker" Mustangs and More Member #23
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Rick1 Journeyman Posts: 4 From: Brighton, MI Registered: Nov 2002
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posted 02-12-2003 12:18 PM
Thanks for the information. I have a spot weld tool and have been removing the welds and cutting the inner rocker out in pieces. I need to purchase new components. The article recommends that new components be of heavier gauge than the original. Are there any sources for the heavy gauge components that you can recommend?Thanks again.
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