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Author
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Topic: further ignition pains
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indyphil
Gearhead Posts: 1075
From: Lafayette, IN, USA
Registered: Jul 2002
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posted 02-06-2003 06:19 PM
   
OK,
so my harness is all back in and fixed (YAY)
but after putting all the stuff back in and having received my shop manual from EBAY, I set about trying to fix the dreaded ignition.I have been burning points like crazy in case you havent been reading my prior posts The book says if I ground the coil, and switch the ignition on I should get between 4.5 and 6.6 volts. i do - I get 6.5V. Thats good. However When I installed new points in the car, gapped at 0.017 like the book says it gives me about 28 deg of dwell (again good) but the points keep burning out. This is my 6th set of points. They only last for about 5 minutes of idle or 2 blocks of driving. The book says that burning points could be the wrong capacity condensor. So how do I measure capacitance, how do I know mine is right? The book shows a lot of Ocilloscope traces to help diagnose problems but its all 30 year old technology and I dont have access to it. Any of you guys out there experts on points? Please...!!! (I have tried Pertronix ignitor I and II and both failed in very short periods. Maybe its my funky ignition, but either way im not wasting my time on them until I get points running properly)
thanks in advance.
Phil ------------------
'68 coupe 289 C code
edel 600cfm carb, performer intake, dual exhaust
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indyphil
Gearhead Posts: 1075
From: Lafayette, IN, USA
Registered: Jul 2002
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posted 02-06-2003 07:16 PM
I also read in my haynes manual that you can test your condensor by switching your igntion on and then opening the points."If you see a bright flash then the condensor is bad" All the condensors I have seem to be bad then because I get sparks every time I open my points... regardless of the coil or condensor I use.
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RonnieT
Gearhead Posts: 685
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 02-07-2003 12:11 AM
Phil,Were are you buying your points from? The stuff they sell at Autozone and the other chain stores are junk. If you could find a local shop that sells the STANDARD ignition parts, they are the best I ever found, if not then try a good quality set of points and a condenser from you local NAPA Store. ------------------
Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V engineless at the time!
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23
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indyphil
Gearhead Posts: 1075
From: Lafayette, IN, USA
Registered: Jul 2002
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posted 02-07-2003 07:22 AM
Ive tried lots of different points, from NAPA, autozone, standard and "high performance - blue streak". The points are not the cause, there is something wrong with either my coil or condensor because it creates an arc every time they open. I need to find the cause of the arcing.
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 34763
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 02-07-2003 09:33 AM
You change condenser with every set of points, right?What are you using for a coil? ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Please remember our sponsors,
Mustangs Plus, NPD, Osborn Reproductions, MyFordPerformance.com, and FordRamAir.com
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indyphil
Gearhead Posts: 1075
From: Lafayette, IN, USA
Registered: Jul 2002
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posted 02-07-2003 10:11 AM
I have tried a new condensor with most of the points, also I have tried old condensors.the coil is a flame thrower coil by pertronix, although I have also tried the old coil that came with the car and it does the same thing. I think its baffling. I may try another new coil, but im seriously considering a Duraspark unit. the coils resistance is 1.5 ohms (measured with my multimeter) just like it is supposed to be. My resistance wire is working fine. A guy at work says that all points will make a small spark when you open them, so now I dont know what to do.
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indyphil
Gearhead Posts: 1075
From: Lafayette, IN, USA
Registered: Jul 2002
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posted 02-07-2003 08:07 PM
I just bought a stock replacement coil.
Im going to try it, and some new autolite spark plugs (since plugs are the only thing in the ignition that are not new or verified)I will try some more tests to ensure that my ground and resistor wires are good, after that I give up. I might try looking at the coil output with an ocilloscope. My shop manual shows what the trace should look like. By the way my old plug wires have a little more resistance in them than the new 7mm wires I have which is about 11,000 Ohms per wire (for about a short wire to #1 or 2 cylinder) that seems high compared to a high performance wire. I will check them all for integrity because at the moment everything is suspect.
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 34763
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 02-08-2003 08:07 PM
How is the alignment of the points faces? The little ground strap on the pivoting screw is there, right? I'd swap over to electronic ignition, too. But I'd sure want to know why the car burns points. You use dielectric grease on the cam, right? ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Please remember our sponsors,
Mustangs Plus, NPD, Osborn Reproductions, MyFordPerformance.com, and FordRamAir.com
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indyphil
Gearhead Posts: 1075
From: Lafayette, IN, USA
Registered: Jul 2002
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posted 02-09-2003 12:24 PM
Yep I have checked the points for alignment, I wonder how good it has to be because I have done the best i can without the aid of a microscope! The grounds are good as best i can tell although im going to try driving it with a jumper lead from engine to battery to make sure. I seem to remember putting some of the dielectric grease on but it may have all gone with all the work I have been doing. Does it make that much difference?
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