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Author
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Topic: Thermostat
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aGreenAgent
Gearhead Posts: 139
From: Orange County, CA
Registered: Oct 2002
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posted 01-05-2003 08:17 PM
  
I was in a drive-thru line at a fast food restaurant, when my car stalled and radiator fluid was shooting out of the overflow. My thoughts, along with everyone I talked to, was the thermostat was dead. So I bought a new one and put it in today. I haven't driven it yet, but it seemed to run fine. After I took the old one out, I put it in boiling water, and it still worked. Is there something else I should watch out for before I drive it?
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71RESTO
Gearhead Posts: 1293
From: Oregon, USA
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 01-05-2003 09:23 PM
You should probably also replace the radiator cap, because they tend to weaken over time a well and will pop open even under low pressure.------------------
Duane
71 Fastback (his) under resto (351C-4V C6 auto)
73 Mach 1 (hers) (351CJ 4 speed)
66 289/2V coupe (daughter Ashley's)
89 LX 2.3 convertible (daughter Amanda's)
M & M Member #730
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aGreenAgent
Gearhead Posts: 139
From: Orange County, CA
Registered: Oct 2002
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posted 01-05-2003 11:36 PM
Yeah I did that a couple weeks ago.
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 34763
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 01-06-2003 09:00 AM
Now keep an eye on your hoses. Usually a new cap will pop a weak one.------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Remember our sponsors, Mustangs Plus, NPD, Osborn Reproductions, and MyFordPerformance.com.
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V8 Thumper
Gearhead Posts: 3603
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 01-06-2003 09:04 AM
Sitting still= no air through the radiator.
Stalled motor= no coolant circulation When it died, the temp shot up (along with the pressure) and exceded the rating of the cap, evacuating coolant out the overflow. That's what the cap is designed to do~ 'give' when the pressure reaches a pre-determined level. I'm more concerned with how hot it's getting, and why. What # cap do you run? ------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9" All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html
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Jeff
Gearhead Posts: 280
From: Moore, OK USA
Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 01-06-2003 03:43 PM
Also...check lower radiator hose by squeezing it. It should not collapse when squeezed with hand pressure. If the spring inside the hose is gone, the hose will collapse under water pump pressure causing the engine to overheat. The purpose of the spring is to hold the hose open under pressure.
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69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 1226
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 01-06-2003 04:51 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Jeff:
The purpose of the spring is to hold the hose open under pressure.
The new hose I just put on mine doesn't have a spring.
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 34763
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 01-06-2003 05:11 PM
It needs one. When your engine is running at highway speeds the water pump can create a vacuum strong enough to suck the lower hose flat. If your new one doesn't have one, you need to fish out the old one out of the old hose or make a new one.------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Remember our sponsors, Mustangs Plus, NPD, Osborn Reproductions, and MyFordPerformance.com.
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RADRIDE
Gearhead Posts: 252
From: Va.Beach, Va.
Registered: Aug 2002
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posted 01-06-2003 06:06 PM
I went through that problem with the lower rad hose.Tony Branda sells a concours correct hose with spring.Finding one was not as easy as it sounds.I checked all local parts stores and none had a spring.
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69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 1226
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 01-06-2003 06:14 PM
quote:
Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
you need to fish out the old one out of the old hose or make a new one.
Fish does come to mind when you look at the old spring. It looks like backlash on a fishing reel. Plus it was rusted all to he11.
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 34763
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 01-06-2003 06:22 PM
A replacement is only three minutes away with a coat hanger or better yet a brazing rod.------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Remember our sponsors, Mustangs Plus, NPD, Osborn Reproductions, and MyFordPerformance.com.
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V8 Thumper
Gearhead Posts: 3603
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 01-06-2003 07:20 PM
quote:
Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
A replacement is only three minutes away with a coat hanger or better yet a brazing rod.
Great tip  ------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9" All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html
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aGreenAgent
Gearhead Posts: 139
From: Orange County, CA
Registered: Oct 2002
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posted 01-07-2003 06:41 PM
quote:
Originally posted by V8 Thumper:
Sitting still= no air through the radiator.
Stalled motor= no coolant circulation When it died, the temp shot up (along with the pressure) and exceded the rating of the cap, evacuating coolant out the overflow. That's what the cap is designed to do~ 'give' when the pressure reaches a pre-determined level. I'm more concerned with how hot it's getting, and why. What # cap do you run?
I'm not sure what you mean, but it's 7lbs if that's what you're asking
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aGreenAgent
Gearhead Posts: 139
From: Orange County, CA
Registered: Oct 2002
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posted 01-09-2003 01:34 AM
I should just drive to Todd's house and have him look at it, lol. I don't know nearly enough about cars yet to do this kind of stuff.
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soaring
Gearhead Posts: 116
From: New Mexico
Registered: Nov 2002
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posted 01-09-2003 02:31 AM
Great suggestions from all. 1. thermostat replacement 2. new rad cap 3. spring in lower hose. But, I would also add an overflow tank if you don't already have one.------------------
http://www.classic-mustang.net/ReadersRides/glenwren3.jpg
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aGreenAgent
Gearhead Posts: 139
From: Orange County, CA
Registered: Oct 2002
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posted 01-09-2003 02:45 PM
Yeah I have one. When it was spewing fluid everywhere, the overflow tank was full, and it was the overflow tank that it was coming out of.
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johnmustang
Gearhead Posts: 4727
From: British Columbia , Canada
Registered: Nov 2001
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posted 01-09-2003 03:02 PM
When you run the car in park, up to operating temperature with the cap off, are you seeing any bubbles in the rad ? JOHN ------------------
65 2+2 FASTBACK
87 TAURUS WAGON
98 F150 XLT TRITON V8 4.6, 4 WHEEL DRIVE
Member:Vancouver Island Mustang Association
M&M #1710
MyPhotoPage
MY TRUCK
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aGreenAgent
Gearhead Posts: 139
From: Orange County, CA
Registered: Oct 2002
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posted 01-10-2003 12:16 AM
Yeah I tried that (blown head gasket). There were tiny bubbles before it started, but no new ones were formed when I started the car.
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N266fords
Gearhead Posts: 801
From: Spokane ,WA USA
Registered: Apr 2003
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posted 04-25-2003 02:21 PM
Hey Guys All valid points but timing can over heat as well a spun impeller blade on your water pump did you go to an underdrive on your water pump that to can cause overheating at idle speed
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70SportsRoof
Gearhead Posts: 854
From: Glendale, AZ...soon Orange County, CA
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 04-25-2003 05:32 PM
quote:
Originally posted by N266fords:
Hey Guys All valid points but timing can over heat as well a spun impeller blade on your water pump did you go to an underdrive on your water pump that to can cause overheating at idle speed
Good point there about timing. Also, I just noticed aGreenAgent said he was running a 7lb cap...I thought classic Mustangs called for a 13-14 lbs cap. ------------------
Gary M.-
1970 Mustang Deluxe SportsRoof (daily driver), 1946 Ford pickup, 1947 Ford pickup, 1957 Ford Fairlane 500 Town Vic
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