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Author
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Topic: Where can I get a good carbuerator rebuild kit for my 2100?
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BaLleRz68
Journeyman Posts: 55
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Aug 2002
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posted 01-03-2003 03:44 AM
  
Iam gonna rebuild my 2100 carb soon fpr my c-code and was wondering where I can get a good rebuild kit. Anybody have some tips on rebuilding a carb? What do I have to replace? Any pre-cautions I should take? I've never rebuilt one before. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.
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V8 Thumper
Gearhead Posts: 2830
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 01-03-2003 08:22 AM
You should be able to get one from any chain parts house; maybe start at Napa. Some tips: Got a digital camera, or have access to one? Take some close-ups prior to tear down, and while in the process. Sometimes, it can be tough to remember how it goes back together 
CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN. You need to be able to lick the inside of that carburetor before assembling. The whole thing needs to be torn down, blown out with compressed air (very important), soaked overnight in a non-caustic parts dip, rinsed and blown out again. Every tiny little hole/passage/orafice needs to be clear, an air gun with different sized tips is handy, but not required.
Any speed shop should have cold tank services, maybe cost $10 to have your carb parts soaked overnight. In fact, they'll probably blow it all out for you too.
Organize your work area, clear any clutter. As is the case with most all machinery, surgical clenliness is paramount.
Re-assemble exact opposite of tear down. Read the instructions several times to make sure you understand everything. There will be a break down (cut-away view) in the instructions as well; refer to it while re-assebling, being mindful of where certain gaskets go and which direction they sit, where this stupid little ball goes, where that little spring that boings across the garage wound up, etc. etc.
Take your time, make sure it's right. Take notes, pictures, anything you need to help you put it back together exactally the way it came apart  ------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9" All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 30261
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 01-03-2003 08:26 AM
quote:
Originally posted by V8 Thumper:
You need to be able to lick the inside of that carburetor before assembling.
Pervert!  ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Remember our sponsors, Mustangs Plus, NPD, Osborn Reproductions, and MyFordPerformance.com.
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V8 Thumper
Gearhead Posts: 2830
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 01-03-2003 08:33 AM
ROTFLMAO!  ------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9" All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html
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69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 911
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 01-03-2003 08:43 AM
I just rebuilt mine a few months ago. Got my kit from AutoZone for $15. I didn't have any carb dip so I used aerosol carb cleaner and brake cleaner to rebuild mine. Some ports were pretty gunked up so I hit them with PB Blaster then the brake and carb cleaner. I only tore down what was necessary to replace the parts in the kit. You dont need to remove the throttle plates and shaft. You'll also have parts left over in your kit. Just make sure you match up the replacement gaskets with the ones that came with your carb. I used an old sewing box tray to keep the screws and such seperated. Also, there's a vacuum port right next to the lower left choke houseing mounting screw. Make sure you blow out this port and use the small cork gasket when reassembling. This is what operates your choke pulloff and draws hot air from your exhaust manifold.
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 18281
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 01-03-2003 07:37 PM
NAPA
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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,&'03
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com
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71RESTO
Gearhead Posts: 1243
From: Oregon, USA
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 01-03-2003 10:40 PM
Funny this question would come up at this time. I just happened to tear down the original 2100 on my daughter's '66 289 on New Years day and am planning on putting it all back together tomorrow. I got my rebuild kit from a neighborhood parts store for $19 and picked up a one gallon bucket of carb cleaner/parts dip (with dipping basket included) for $14. What you need to do is have a shop manual handy, because the rebuild kit will only tell you how to make all the correct settings (idle screws, choke plates, etc.) and the Ford shop manual will tell you exactly step-by-step how to tear it down and then back together after cleaning. The thing I did was to use a small dish for each sub-assembly to keep the parts together for that assembly and not get them all mixed together.
Believe me, it is no big deal to do this rebuild. I haven't torn down a carb for almost 25 years and was petrified to try this, but with the shop manual and staying organized it is really a piece of cake.
Of course, I'll have to wait and see how well it goes when I put it back on the car tomorrow.  ------------------
Duane
71 Fastback (his) under resto (351C-4V C6 auto)
73 Mach 1 (hers) (351CJ 4 speed)
66 289/2V coupe (daughter Ashley's)
89 LX 2.3 convertible (daughter Amanda's)
M & M Member #730
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