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Author Topic:   parts/body work/paint questions
sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 2248
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 12-24-2002 08:54 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus   Click Here to Email sigtauenus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Has anybody tried the repro 67-68 headlight extension assemblies? I'll be buying new ones and am debating whether or not to buy NOS or repro for better fit.

I know we've been over this before, but what are the preferred methods of stripping. I'm leaning towards blasting, and know cleanup will be a pain. I plan on buying a pressure blaster to use, but don't want to use sand. Is there anything else good that I can use in the driveway that will cut good but won't damage the sheetmetal?

If I strip the car and buy all the parts, is $5000 a realistic figure to get a quarter panel changed, a door changed, and paint done? I have already owned my car 9 years now, and have painted it once before. I never want to have to paint this car again.

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Red65
Gearhead

Posts: 115
From: Northglenn, CO, USA
Registered: Jul 2002

posted 12-24-2002 10:13 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Red65   Click Here to Email Red65     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Eastman offers a bunch of different blasting media. I've heard that walnut shells or pecan shells are good at removing paint but leaving metal intact.

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Red65
Gearhead

Posts: 115
From: Northglenn, CO, USA
Registered: Jul 2002

posted 12-24-2002 10:17 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Red65   Click Here to Email Red65     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Sorry, Eastwood not Eastman!! (Been to too many chemical plants).

I just checked the site, they have walnut shells and plastic poly beads that should do the trick.

www.eastwoodco.com

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V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 4378
From: Arizona
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 12-24-2002 11:10 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I dunno...

Just my opinion mind you, but I'd be REAL nervous using a procedure as violent as media blasting on 40-year old sheet metal... any weak/thin spots and you'll find them for sure!

------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html

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rm302 boss
Gearhead

Posts: 680
From: Austin Texas
Registered: Dec 2002

posted 12-24-2002 11:57 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for rm302 boss   Click Here to Email rm302 boss     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
With sand i would say yes, with plastic or shell media not so much. I have used it on fiberglass and not damaged the hood it did do any thing other than dull the glaze. These will not premote rust either like sand will.
As for repo 1/4 fenders .... ????? never used them, i allways went hunting for the oem at swap meets or E-Bay.
Rene

------------------
1970 Boss 302
1990 Taurus SHO
1985 Mustang GT 351W
1995 Land rover Disco
1980 Triumph Spitfire (auto-X car)

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mustangs68
Moderator

Posts: 22551
From: Buckroe Beach Va MCA#39406 M&M #12 Member Mustang Club of Tidewater
Registered: May 99

posted 12-24-2002 12:36 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mustangs68   Click Here to Email mustangs68     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
At work we have plates which hold disc for applying a silver paste,once the silver paste builds up on the plates we have to blast them,we use walnut shells to do this..stops a major amount of the warping of the plate and does an acceptable job of cleaning..keep in mind these plates see 200 to 600 degs F when "drying" the paste so you can imagine how hard it is to remove

sam

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66bluefb
Gearhead

Posts: 500
From: Okla.City,Okla.
Registered: May 2002

posted 12-24-2002 02:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 66bluefb   Click Here to Email 66bluefb     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I would bead blast the car. Remember that the preparation on getting the car ready to paint is the most important thing. Get references on the body shop or who ever does the job. I would check on my car every couple of days or so to make sure it is being done right. Take someone with you that knows something about getting a car ready to paint too. I would think that 5,000 is a good price. Preparation is the key, you can paint a turd and make it look good but underneath its still a turd .Tony

------------------
http://ourworld.cs.com/blagintony/myhomepage/auto.html
86-302 HO bored .030 over crank .010 under
B-303 cam ,harland sharp roller rockers
performer rpm intake, 625 carter
66-289 heads, ported with 160-194 valves, 3 angle valve job
4 speed toploader
pony seats

[This message has been edited by 66bluefb (edited 12-24-2002).]

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Fastback68
Gearhead

Posts: 3170
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99

posted 12-27-2002 11:45 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastback68   Click Here to Email Fastback68     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
These will not premote rust either like sand will.

How's that? Are you saying sand promotes rust just because it is so good at exposing bare metal? Sand itself is inert, I believe, and doesn't absorb water either.

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rm302 boss
Gearhead

Posts: 680
From: Austin Texas
Registered: Dec 2002

posted 12-29-2002 02:33 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for rm302 boss   Click Here to Email rm302 boss     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Fastback68:
[QUOTE]These will not premote rust either like sand will.


How's that? Are you saying sand promotes rust just because it is so good at exposing bare metal? Sand itself is inert, I believe, and doesn't absorb water either.
[/QUOTE]

No, you are right it does not absorb water but you will never get 100% of the sand back out. every crack and hole sand will build up in and water will collect there. every place you do not get the sand out of will become a trouble spot later. ever stuck your hand in a sand box? Same thing, funny how just below the serface there is moisture. that moisture will be trapped against bare metal rust will result. Trust me i live in South Texas pulling cars out of Big sand boxes happens here all the time. you never get rid of sand just move it from place to place..... A car that has been sand blasted will all ways have sand in torque boxes,rear rails, cross members, fernder lips,etc... no air blowing water treatment will get it out. ...
Example; when a head for an engine is glass beaded. it must be put in a tumbler for hours on end to get the beads out.
You may not trust me on this so ask around but, every car that i have seen sand blasted only lasted a couple of years before rust started to show up....And i live in a much dryer climate than most of you..
Rene

------------------
1970 Boss 302
1990 Taurus SHO
1985 Mustang GT 351W
1995 Land rover Disco
1980 Triumph Spitfire (auto-X car)

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sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 2248
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 12-29-2002 07:42 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus   Click Here to Email sigtauenus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I know what you are saying Rene, my dad sandblasted his 66 and the body man cut the rocker panels out in the back and about 2 gallons of sand dropped out.

However, I think if I am very carefull of masking over any holes to the frames, or basically anything I won't be able to get into with a vacuum, I should be ok.

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Gullatt's Mustangs
Journeyman

Posts: 84
From: No Alabama USA
Registered: Aug 2002

posted 12-29-2002 11:30 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Gullatt's Mustangs     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The only way that I know of to get all the rust and paint off of the body is to dissassemble the entire car and have the sub body and the sheet metal dipped at a place like ReadyStrip. I believe that the solution they use is Alkaline based ? But I bet that you do not want to have to take the whole car apart !

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soaring
Gearhead

Posts: 116
From: New Mexico
Registered: Nov 2002

posted 12-30-2002 12:05 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for soaring   Click Here to Email soaring     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Well, I had mine prepped and painted by a pro restoration shop. They used sand, but pretty much knew ahead of time they were going to have to cut out the cancerous rust and replace it with steel. They took the car apart, however, so no left over sand was trapped anywhere. According to them, and every article I have read about body restoration, this is the preferred method.
Many folks don't use any sand or beads or shells. They simply hand sand the body.

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sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 2248
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 12-30-2002 09:16 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus   Click Here to Email sigtauenus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I am fully prepared to completely disassemble the car to do this right. I am also prepared to spend a significant amount on this paintjob, but only if I never have to do it again. I want this to be a primo paint job that will still look good for another 20-30 years or more, and I intend on babying it to make that happen. However, no amount of babying will keep a turd looking good.


Anybody have their car dipped? I don't even know a ballpark figure on what that costs. Also, I wonder if they can "electroplate" primer these days. One of my concerns with dipping the car is leaving bare metal in places I can't get to for protection. If they were to dip the car after it was stripped and plate it with something like primer or other protection, that would be good.

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