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Author
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Topic: Heater Assembly Removal
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69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 1226
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 12-12-2002 05:53 PM
   
Is it necessary to remove the dash pad to take the heater box out of a 69 w/o AC?
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RonnieT
Gearhead Posts: 685
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 12-12-2002 08:09 PM
According to the repair manual you have to remove the dash pad, glove compartment liner and door, air distribution duct frome heater, control cables, and right courtesy light. Then you remove the heater support to dash panel screws, vacuum hoses and power air vent duct (if equipped), blower motor ground wire, and heater hoses. From under the hood you then remove the 5 heater assembly retaining nuts. Remove the instrument panel to cowl attaching screws and the instrument panel right side brace. Then the heater box is ready to come out by pulling the box and instrument panel rearwards.
Now you can remove the heater core by removing the air inlet seal from the heater assembly. Then remove the eleven clips from the flange and separate the housing, then remove the heater core. Reverse these steps to reassemble and your done. ------------------
Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V engineless at the time!
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23 [This message has been edited by RonnieT (edited 12-12-2002).]
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69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 1226
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 12-12-2002 08:48 PM
You been reading my Hayne's manual?  Anyone have any experience with removing that monstrosity? The dash pad, that is.... Was hoping that that was just procedural stuff. Oh well. Looks like my Saturday's shot. Thanks.
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dubstar
Gearhead Posts: 423
From: Long Beach, Ca 1966 A-Code Coupe
Registered: Feb 2002
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posted 12-12-2002 09:49 PM
you could always do what i did when i first got my mustang.... i ripped everything out (involving the heater) and threw it away! now that i look back on it, i wish i would have kept it.but seriously, removing the dashpad sucks, just try removing everything EXCEPT the dash, it might be harder to install, but why mess up a perfectly good dash right? ------------------
Tuesday's Gone With The Wind.
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69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 1226
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 12-13-2002 08:29 AM
quote:
Originally posted by dubstar:
but why mess up a perfectly good dash right?
That's the biggest worry. My pad has a crack right along the speaker grill. I'm afraid I'll snap it in half if I try to remove it. Guess I could always use a coverlay. We shall see tomorrow....
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RonnieT
Gearhead Posts: 685
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 12-13-2002 11:05 PM
I am trying to remember how the pad comes out, but all I can remember right now is that there are some hidden screws, one on each side of the center bezel, you have to remove the plastic vertical strips to access them. I think there is one on each side that you need to remove the kick panels to access. Then the screws in the defroster ducts. I am sure there are a few more that I am not thinking about also.------------------
Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V engineless at the time!
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23
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70SportsRoof
Gearhead Posts: 854
From: Glendale, AZ...soon Orange County, CA
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 12-14-2002 11:53 AM
You won't crack the dash pad in half. The dash pads are made of steel with a foam and vinyl cover. My pad looks like the dry cracked surface of Bonneville, but has never cracked in all the times I've removed it. They are a pain in the a$$ to remove. Here's what you do: where the pad meets the base of the windshield there are some screws, phillips, they can be tough to get due to the angles, so a magnetic screwdriver is helpful. Remove the a-pillar plastic pieces since I think there is a screw there too. Then remove the plastic trim that is on the lower outer ends of the dash, and the 2 next to the radio. You'll find a screw for the pad under the plastic trim pieces. Then, remove the screws under the clock panel that hold it to the dash metal, there should be 3 or 4. Then what I do is just remove the screws along the top inside of the cove that has the gauges. That way you won't have to actually remove the gauges. Then just reverse it all. Told you it was a P.I.T.A. In fact, in just a few hours I'm going to be taking apart the dash in my '70 to fix the heater core. Good luck! ------------------
Gary M.-
1970 Mustang Deluxe SportsRoof (daily driver), 1946 Ford pickup, 1947 Ford pickup, 1957 Ford Fairlane 500 Town Vic
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69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 1226
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 12-14-2002 01:33 PM
Well, the dashpad came out easy (knocking on wood) - 3 screws along the windshield, 4 hidden across the bottom, 3 above the glove box and 3 above the instrument cluster. Moving right along....
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69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 1226
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 12-14-2002 03:44 PM
Some idiot used 1 1/2 inch long #10 screws instead of the push pins to hold the heater plenum to the heater box. Anybody want to learn some new curse words?  Now that everything is disconnected, I still cant pull the lower dash back far enough for the thing to clear. Looks like the blower motor is too long. This is getting agravating. Should have skipped the coffee this morning......
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