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Author
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Topic: cam gear worn out?
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indyphil
Gearhead Posts: 877
From: Lafayette, IN, USA
Registered: Jul 2002
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posted 12-06-2002 09:22 AM
   
If you have been following what I have been posting you may have noticed I have an ignition problem.A while back my pertronix unit failed. I made changes to the basic C code engine in my 68 (edelbrock carb and intake) and although the switch back to points ignition seems to have fixed the problem created by the broken pertronix unit, I seem to burn out my points regularly. I have tried about everything I can imagine. I have the correct voltage to the coil, i have tried different coils, condensors even a rebuilt distributor from NAPA. If i clean the points it runs great for about 2 blocks then burns the points up and starts misfiring under heavy acceleration. It idles OK (not perfect but good) Im wondering if anyone else out there has had such trouble with their points, and what its related to. I wonder if my cam gear is worn out or if it could be timing related. I dont remember it being this difficult to set up when I bought the car before installing the pertronix kit, but if something is worn out and causing a problem maybe thats why the pertronix unit broke? Any advice on dwell, timing, points, cam wear, timing chain wear, or misfires under acceleration might help me. I know the misfire is caused by the burnt out points, because I can clean them and it goes away, but why would they burn out - and on a rebuilt distributor? I have heard about breaker plate wear and bushing wear but this is a store bought distributor! The only thing left that could be worn out would be the cam gear or the timing chain. I have tried my old stock coil and a flame thrower coil, they both burn my points out. Pertronix should be mailing me an ignitor II sometime soon as a warranty replacement (I paid them the difference to upgrade). I want it to work while I wait for that to arrive and I want to feel sure that something isnt seriously wrong (like a worn out cam gear) How can i check for a worn cam gear? Thanks in advance for all your help. I wonder how much longer I can go on before I buy a new cam, timing chain, and an MSD distributor and ignition system and put myself in the poor house trying to make it run smooth.
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indyphil
Gearhead Posts: 877
From: Lafayette, IN, USA
Registered: Jul 2002
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posted 12-06-2002 09:29 AM
should have added my sig
additional info:
NEW distributor cap, rotor, wires (7mm), coil, points, condensor, rebuilt distributor.------------------
'68 coupe 289 C code
edel 600cfm carb, performer intake, dual exhaust
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horseballz
Gearhead Posts: 194
From: LasVegas,NV
Registered: Dec 99
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posted 12-06-2002 12:51 PM
indyphil,
Just a hunch here. Do you have the proper resistor installed in the proper location in the primary circuit of your ignition system? I have never had the occasion to have to deal with it,as all Fords that I've owned have had all of the original wiring perfectly intact (lucky me), so I am not sure of the physical location or appearance of this resistor, but I understand that a standard coil and points set up (and, I think Pertronix) is only supposed to see about 6-volts instead of 12 (really 13-14) volts. To test my theory, with the igition switch on, connect postive lead of a volt meter to the wire that goes to your points and the other lead to ground. If you read 12 or more volts, I suspect that you have either a bad (shorted) resistor or no resistor at all which most likely is causing the problems you describe. I'm not sure if the original on a Ford is an actual resistor or a piece of resistive wire. I also seem to remember reading a post some where on this site that stated that while the key/ignition switch is in the start position it gives the full 12 (13-14) volts to the coil primary/points through one circuit of the switch and then when the key/ignition switch is released to the run position it sends only about 6-volts through a different circuit of the switch. If this is true, it tells me that the resistor must be somewhere in one of the feeds to the ignition switch. This may point to a faulty ignition switch or wiring (possibly modified) going to it. It is possible that if any previous owner has ever Hot-Rodded your car,  they may have removed/defeated the resistor intentionally to send full voltage to some high powered system that doesn't mind seeing 12+volts. I hope that some one with more hands on knowledge of this subject can give more details and correct any of my possible misinformation. If you see 6-volts at the points then I guess I'm just whistlin' out the hole in my arse  and I' stumped! Sorry for such along reply, I hope it helps you track down your problem.
?????????????
horseballz (Gene)------------------
'68 coupe
289/3speed(soon to
be 5.0/5speed)
'68 Coupe
289
C4
'85 F150 Beater
300/Overdrive Stick
Pre-dented&scratched
'02 Ranger 4x4 Edge
'02 Miata
74 Chebbie C-10
Really Beat Beater
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indyphil
Gearhead Posts: 877
From: Lafayette, IN, USA
Registered: Jul 2002
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posted 12-06-2002 01:05 PM
Thanks, I had a similar thought and checked it a week or so ago, I get 6 volts at the coil with the ignition on. thats why im so stumped. I figured something was worn out but when I put the NAPA rebuilt distributor on the car and it still did this I got a little bit frustrated!
Pertronix told me today that they will be sending my new unit next week sometime. I will keep you all informed. I will play with it some more on the weekend and see if it is timing sensitive. I run about 8-10 degrees initial timing.
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horseballz
Gearhead Posts: 194
From: LasVegas,NV
Registered: Dec 99
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posted 12-06-2002 01:29 PM
phil,
Just a thought in case there is something screwy with your wiring, try testing with the car running in case the charging circuit is some how tied in to the ignition circuit. It might help if you have a meter with a hold reading function so that the reading doesn't bounce up and down.
============
gene
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bluestreek
Gearhead Posts: 1332
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 12-07-2002 12:06 AM
Which type of coil are you using? I have the best mileage with points when I use the short OEM yellow-top Ford coil. They also work well with the Ignitor up to 6000 rpms. Good luck. ------------------
1966 Mustang Coupe: Custom glass hood and BIG scoop sits atop a 289 stroked to 331 c.i., Steel crank and girdle, 5.4 H-beams, Forged slugs, ported TFS alum. heads, ported Stealth 8020 intake, CompCams Xtreme Solid Roller, Holley 750 HP, long tubes, 4speed, 9" 3.50 posi, BFG Drag radials..
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indyphil
Gearhead Posts: 877
From: Lafayette, IN, USA
Registered: Jul 2002
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posted 12-07-2002 01:15 PM
I thought I had checked the voltage to the coil before but it seems i am getting something strange. The coil seems to be getting battery voltage now. I could have sworn it was 6 volts last time I checked.It also gets battery voltage if i unplug the I post of the solenoid, so its not something in the solenoid its coming from the ignition switch. I need to look for the resistor wire, I should be able to figure this out now! Thanks for the help everyone especially you Gene 
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