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Topic: 65 Master Cylinder Question...
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65Acode Journeyman Posts: 37 From: Houston,TX Registered: Sep 2002
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posted 11-16-2002 11:47 PM
I have a 65 hardtop A code 289 with factory front disc's and manual brakes. I want to go to a later model master for redundancy (safety). I was wondering how tough this is and if I can use the existing brake lines? Also will I be able to fit a power booster behind it? I am OK with the manual brakes if it is an easier install, I just want the redundancy of a dual zone master cylinder.
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Moneymaker Administrator Posts: 19611 From: Lyons, IL, USA Registered: May 99
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posted 11-17-2002 12:46 AM
SSBC sells a kit with a booster, MC and lines. ------------------ Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver MCA member# 53321 NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00, '01, & '02 Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28 Professional Manwhore The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked." Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!" Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
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V8 Thumper Gearhead Posts: 3267 From: Orange, Ca. United States of America Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 11-17-2002 09:46 AM
I too have a '65 with factory manual discs. I swapped out m/c's with a dual stage unit out of an '83 Ranger, also as suggested by Moneymaker It is a direct bolt-in; including piston depth, meaning you can use your existing pedal pushrod rather than buying an adjustable pushrod You will need to fabricate your own brake lines from the m/c to both the junction block (fronts) and to the proportioning valve (rears), but that's no big deal. I double flared my own tubing, but you can buy 12" or 14" long lines already flared w/ fittings, and bend a loop in the center of it (a 1" socket works well for consistent bends). A few tweaks here, a few bends there, line up the fittings to the ports and you're good to go Note: These are still manual brakes... a boosted setup would require the kit as Alex suggested.Try doing a search on the topic, a bunch of guys have upgraded their brakes. You may get some more ideas. Archives (lower left of the forums page) also has a section devoted to braking systems, that would be a great place to look too. Oh hey! Welcome to M&M ------------------ 1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9" All Blue Oval, no blue bottle http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html
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65Acode Journeyman Posts: 37 From: Houston,TX Registered: Sep 2002
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posted 11-20-2002 10:17 PM
Thanks for the advice, I just finished the swap. I used the 83 ranger Master. I narrowed it down to which one the parts shop had in stock. I was looking at th 86 Mustang 4cyl. also but they had to order that one. Also the Ranger unit had the outlets for the front and rear facing the fender so it makes for a neater setup IMHO. The only other thing I had to buy (other than brake lines to bend 'n' fit) was a master cylinder reducer fitting to reduce the front brake outlet to the original line size. It cost a total of about $35. the master cylinder was about $20 rebuilt and my original pushrod fit perfect. Once again thanks for the advice. The pedal effort has been reduced tremendously even though it is still manual. Nick
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V8 Thumper Gearhead Posts: 3267 From: Orange, Ca. United States of America Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 11-21-2002 04:03 AM
------------------ 1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9" All Blue Oval, no blue bottle http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html
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