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Author Topic:   removing paint, help nedeed
Ralph the Frenchie
Journeyman

Posts: 19
From: Paris, France
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 11-14-2002 05:32 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ralph the Frenchie   Click Here to Email Ralph the Frenchie     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
hello,

1) Do you have some experience removing the paint on fiberglass interior panels ? there is about 2 or 3 coats of paint and the grain is not visible any more.

2) What about the simulated side scoops ? (it's a 67) under the paint there is like a powder (seems it's the pot metal kinda rust).
I'll stripe those bad boys but do you have any tricks to prevent this happening again ?

oh BTW I have found another tool for removing the drip rails moldings, very easy ! I'll post a picture asap !

Salut les amis (I'll teach you French cause my english is sooooo poor )

------------------
67 Fastback

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Fastback68
Gearhead

Posts: 1746
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99

posted 11-14-2002 07:09 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastback68   Click Here to Email Fastback68     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Normal paint stripper works just fine on the fiberglass panels, using a rag or some gentle scraping. You don't want to sand them too much, though, or that grain will come right off. Also remember, the dash panels are not fiberglass, they're chromed plastic, and require a whole different technique.
As for pot metal parts, one tip I picked up here at M&M is that it old-timers say you should paint the backs of them black, to stop them exploding. The metal absorbs water and expands if the water is not allowed to escape.

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 5739
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 11-15-2002 07:26 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Something else about pot metal. Example: A person here had his 67 cv painted dark green and it is beautiful except for pot metal. He stripped them with stripper and primed them with a metaletch primer that, on the can, contains phosphoric acid. Normally a good base to have on metal, phosphoric is bad on pot metal. Expoxys and plastic fillers don't stick well to it. Ultimately the base coat acted up and it kinda curdled underneath. Also, a plater told another guy NEVER use paint stripper on parts that are going to be plated! The plater said that bead blasting is the safe way as the remover gets into pores in metal. Yes! Pot metal should be painted on the back side, The white residue is oxidation. A terrible example of pitting on pot metal are the vents on the interior of fastbacks 65/8! If the chrome vents are pitted beyond hope, not much can be done for them. If they are ever done in repo, bet the chrome will be sh*tty if the repop mirrors and tailight frames are any indication.

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Ralph the Frenchie
Journeyman

Posts: 19
From: Paris, France
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 11-15-2002 08:20 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ralph the Frenchie   Click Here to Email Ralph the Frenchie     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mellowyellow:
Something else about pot metal. Example: A person here had his 67 cv painted dark green and it is beautiful except for pot metal. He stripped them with stripper and primed them with a metaletch primer that, on the can, contains phosphoric acid. Normally a good base to have on metal, phosphoric is bad on pot metal. Expoxys and plastic fillers don't stick well to it. Ultimately the base coat acted up and it kinda curdled underneath. Also, a plater told another guy NEVER use paint stripper on parts that are going to be plated! The plater said that bead blasting is the safe way as the remover gets into pores in metal. Yes! Pot metal should be painted on the back side, The white residue is oxidation. A terrible example of pitting on pot metal are the vents on the interior of fastbacks 65/8! If the chrome vents are pitted beyond hope, not much can be done for them. If they are ever done in repo, bet the chrome will be sh*tty if the repop mirrors and tailight frames are any indication.

Well thanks ! I'll go on bead blasting. So what do I have to put on the parts before going to the paint shop ? Do you think a rust converter will protect the pot metal ?

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Fastback68
Gearhead

Posts: 1746
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99

posted 11-15-2002 10:47 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastback68   Click Here to Email Fastback68     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Golly gee ... I believe rust converter deals with ferrous (?) oxide (Fe2O3). I don't think it will have any effect - positive or negative - for your pot metal parts. The bottom line is that your pot metal parts started life miserably, and unless they are in perfect shape now and you plan to protect them from moisture from now until eternity, they will end their lives miserably.
In plain Franglais, your pot metal parts are merde. Always were, always will be.

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 33988
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 11-15-2002 12:39 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Ralph the Frenchie:
1) Do you have some experience removing the paint on fiberglass interior panels ? there is about 2 or 3 coats of paint and the grain is not visible any more.

2) What about the simulated side scoops ? (it's a 67) under the paint there is like a powder (seems it's the pot metal kinda rust).
I'll stripe those bad boys but do you have any tricks to prevent this happening again ?

oh BTW I have found another tool for removing the drip rails moldings, very easy ! I'll post a picture asap !


Bon jour!

1) I've have good luck using Zero Rust's http://www.zerorust.com/ paint stripper called 'Removall' on plastics. It seems to take the paint off well and not hurt the plastic at all. PineSol works well too, if you are stripping small parts and can let them sit in it.

2) I would just clean them very well with metal prep, such as PPG or whatever is available there in France. If there is iron oxide and it doesn't seem to be from contact with another part there is obviously some ferrous in the part {pot iron has everything and anything in it, I think}, I'd wash it off with a metal conditioner and prime the back of it. Then it should be good for another 30+ years.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150

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Hell_Fish
Gearhead

Posts: 672
From: Austin, TX.
Registered: May 2002

posted 11-15-2002 02:11 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hell_Fish   Click Here to Email Hell_Fish     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The corrosion and pitting happen because some metals don't play well together. Pot metal is a mix of misc. scraps of anything that was around. The best way to keep it lasting it to seal it completly(paint) and keep it dry.

------------------
Dustin C

56 F-100
Mech. for wifes 69 Mustang coupe
65 Plymouth Barracuda
70 Dodge Swinger

[This message has been edited by Hell_Fish (edited 11-15-2002).]

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Ralph the Frenchie
Journeyman

Posts: 19
From: Paris, France
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 11-18-2002 04:55 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ralph the Frenchie   Click Here to Email Ralph the Frenchie     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Well thanks guys, I'll clean the scoops as possible and perhaps dry them inthe oven just before having them painted...

I'll post some informations later.

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