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Author
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Topic: Disc Brake Conversion
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69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 982
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 11-02-2002 02:19 PM
   
Anything else needed to swap these for my drum brakes?http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1871568693&rd=1 ------------------
1969 Mustang Sportsroof
302 with 3 Speed Stick
!!!Totally Stock!!!
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dark7068
Gearhead Posts: 822
From: BC, Canada
Registered: May 2002
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posted 11-02-2002 05:46 PM
might be worth getting new wheel bearing too, and the hoses might not fit your application, also need a prop valve, booster and master cylinder, might need to make up a few hard lines. Better off finding a donor car same year as yours, what did these come off of? Brakes ARE IMPORTANT.
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69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 982
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 11-02-2002 06:34 PM
Prop valve - Are these disc or drum specific? My parts catalog lists one part number for disc and drum.
Master cylinder is new.
Power booster - ? Is this required for disc brakes?
Hoses - Would be replaced if need be.
Not sure what they were on but will find out.Thanks. [This message has been edited by 69 Sportsroof (edited 11-02-2002).]
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H8CHEVY
Gearhead Posts: 258
From: Southern Cali
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 11-02-2002 06:44 PM
I would recommend getting yourself a new double chamber master cylinder, power booster is not a ness. you can go witout. Brake lines(rubber flex line), pads, bearings, and I would turn the rotors for sure. Proportioning valve will have to go in one of the lines.. I believe its the line that goes to the front brakes??? but dont quote me on that. and.. that should cover it... ------------------
"In the wise words I was once told bye Jiggy"
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dark7068
Gearhead Posts: 822
From: BC, Canada
Registered: May 2002
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posted 11-02-2002 07:36 PM
You can go with manual disk brakes, but the m/c needs to be for one, cant use a drum m/c, its different inside. I found a mid 70's truck, or Maverick/Comet for manual disk is a good swap. They do need a prop or distribution valve for them to be safe, or an adjustable one so you can adjust the pressure between front disk/rear drum brakes. Good luck on the swap. I have an extra used prop valve around from a 70 Cougar power disk brakes if you need one, but have no hard lines. Rick
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Fastback68
Gearhead Posts: 1348
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 11-02-2002 07:47 PM
It would worry me that the guy doesn't even say what these parts were pulled from, unless my eyes are failing me. Maybe you should write and ask him.
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69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 982
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 11-02-2002 10:48 PM
The master cylinder I have is a double chamber ms. There is not a specific listing for drum or disc ms, only manual or power.My 69 is already equipped with a proportioning valve. Hoses and bearings will be inspected before use. The ones on my car now had been sitting around for nearly 9 years and are working fine. So are the bearings. I have sent an e-mail to the seller to let me know what car the setup came off of. When he tells me I'll check with my salvage man to see if they interchange (Hollander). Thanks
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Huskinhano
Journeyman Posts: 15
From: Montvale, NJ.
Registered: Nov 2002
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posted 11-03-2002 10:23 AM
I think for the money, it's a good deal. Be prepared to put new pads ect. on them first. But I think it's a good deal. Read the other posts to make your swap easy. Good luck
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67coupe
Gearhead Posts: 340
From: dallas NC usa
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 11-03-2002 12:10 PM
id be willing to bet that those r granada brakes which i have on both of mine they work well . but u do need to change the master cylnder and porptioning valve they r made diffrent for drum and disk booster is up to u good luck  ------------------
Josh
67 coupe with 351c
8.41 in the 1/8
1.90 60'
at 82.03 mph
94 Explorer
30 model A currently rustbucket
in process 67 convt with efi 5.0 and t5
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MidLifCrisis
Gearhead Posts: 209
From: USA
Registered: Oct 2001
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posted 11-03-2002 03:29 PM
quote:
Originally posted by 69 Sportsroof:
The master cylinder I have is a double chamber ms. There is not a specific listing for drum or disc ms, only manual or power.(After 1966, Ford used a two chamber m.c. on all cars. The difference is 4 wheel drum uses same size chambers. Front discs cars use a larger chamber for the front discs. You will need this type. From the listings I have seen for '67-73 Mustangs, the power setup used discs and the manual used drums. I have found that Mavericks used a manual disc set-up, but we had to shorten the rod to the pedal by approx 1" to get it to fit. Still haven't tested it thoroughly, as I drove it slowly on wet roads and could not check for lock-up. If I was to do it again, I would go for the power-booster/ master cylinder combo that works with the stock pedal assembly and just budget the money into the job. I'm sure your car, like mine is worth the additional $300-400 worth of stopping insurance.) My 69 is already equipped with a proportioning valve. (The distribution block should be changed. A separate proportioning valve that looks like an in-line check valve was used in '69. After that, they were built into the distribution block. If you choose to use your stock dist. block you should get an aftermarket proportioning valve to balance the new system.)
Hoses and bearings will be inspected before use. The ones on my car now had been sitting around for nearly 9 years and are working fine. So are the bearings.
(You will need new hoses between the steel brake lines and the new calipers. The fitting is different than on drums. NPD has a pair of stainless hoses for aprox $70. They look good- perform good.)
I have just finished a swap to '70 Cougar front discs on my '67 Mustang convert. After an initial $200 for the spindles, rotors, calipers, and distr. block- there was approx $500 more in addition to make it complete. Rebuilt calipers, hoses, master cylinder, brake pads and hardware kits. I got the additional from a friend at NAPA. He sold it to me at jobber pricing, so it could have run much more. I also had an additional $100 in replacing the steel brake lines that did not survive disassembly. I also had to move to 15" wheels as the stock 14" wouldn't clear the 11" rotor and caliper. It may be different on a 10.5" rotor that Ford used. In retrospect I would probably go for a kit next time, estimating that I would save approx $100 and about three weeks of just waiting on the next part to come in. I would put that extra $100 toward the power set-up and be driving around much sooner. Just offering my perspective. Good Luck, Charlie [This message has been edited by MidLifCrisis (edited 11-03-2002).]
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69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 982
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 11-04-2002 05:42 PM
I received an e-mail which stated the brakes were from a "70's midsize Ford". Sounds like a Granada to me. If I wanted Granada brakes, I'd go to the salvage yard and get them myself and save shipping. Would really like to swap 69 Mustang brakes for 69 Mustang brakes. Oh well, I'll keep looking.Thanks for all of the responses.
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68 S-code GT
Gearhead Posts: 895
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 11-06-2002 07:53 AM
They do look like them! I?ve notice people getting a lot of money for them when you can get them relatively cheap from a salvage yard.Especially the u-pull-it places!
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