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  '64 1/2 to '68 1/2 -- The Classic Mustang
  Converting from 3 speed manual to C4 auto

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Author Topic:   Converting from 3 speed manual to C4 auto
rockafellz
Gearhead

Posts: 1459
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001

posted 10-31-2002 01:24 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for rockafellz        Reply w/Quote
Hey Fellas,

My uncle's got a '66 289 Mustang coupe with a 3 speed and I plan to give him a C4 setup that I got almost free for Christmas. Here's a list of what I have so far, am I missing anything?

C4 transmission
6-bolt 289 C4 bellhousing
OE torque converter (qty.2)
157 tooth flexplate
Auto starter
Cooling lines
2 row radiator w/cooler fittings
Linkage rod (no shifter linkage yet)
Kickdown cable
Neutral safety switch
Yoke
Driveshaft

I don't have the crossmember but i'm thinking his would fit. I am also assuming that we could use his manual pedals and just disregard the clutch pedal or maybe tie it back (if possible) Am I missing anything else? And is this a straightforward swap?

Thanks in advance.

Erik

------------------
1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress

1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
Dad's - Original Unrestored

senzstang
Gearhead

Posts: 530
From: perry, oh, usa
Registered: May 2002

posted 11-01-2002 07:31 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for senzstang        Reply w/Quote
Erik,

That is a pretty complete list. I think you have everything you need. I have never swap manual for C4 but have pulled and had my C4 rebuilt. I don't see anything missing from your list that I have. You may want to go to a 3 row radiator while you are swapping. Also, if you don't have a radiator shroud, add one. What shift linkage are you missing?

Phil

V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 4777
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 11-01-2002 07:52 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper        Reply w/Quote
The crossmember and trans mount are the same for autos and manuals (on early cars, that is). Once you have the clutch linkage disconnected/removed, the under-the-dash pedal spring (it's a BIG sucker) will hold the pedal to the floor. I've read about guys pulling back the carpet a bit, releasing the linkage and then putting the carpet back down, covering the pedal

------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html

V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 4777
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 11-01-2002 07:59 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper        Reply w/Quote
I agree with Phil about upgrading the cooling system if at all possible. If nothing else, have him get a shroud for sure. A bigger radiator would be a smart move too. Heck, since the auto set-up is a gift (wow!), have him buy two shrouds and radiators

Hey Erik, what does your uncle have planned for his old parts? I could use some clutch linkage/parts if he's interested

------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html

rockafellz
Gearhead

Posts: 1459
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001

posted 02-15-2003 05:06 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for rockafellz        Reply w/Quote
We still haven't done the swap since it's still been a little too cold in the garage. We'll be doing it this spring.

Todd, I'll ask him what he plans to do with it.

Also, are there any special tools I need to have to remove the clutch pedal/cable/etc?

Thanks in advance.

Erik

------------------
1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress

1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
Dad's - Original Unrestored

V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 4777
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 02-15-2003 07:17 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by rockafellz:
Also, are there any special tools I need to have to remove the clutch pedal/cable/etc?


Removing or installing the clutch pedal return spring is simple, believe it or not. Remove the pedal stop bracket from the pedal support; that'll allow the pedal to hyperextend... then simply remove the spring.

That's the only trick to the whole deal, everything else is straight forward

[This message has been edited by V8 Thumper (edited 02-15-2003).]

mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 8198
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 02-18-2003 04:51 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow        Reply w/Quote
You're missing one thing. A 6 cyl car has the gas line coming into the engine cmpt right alongside where the exhaust will be coming out on the V-8 model. The V-8 gas line get routed out side along the driver side frame rail, and into the engine cmpt through a hole, that may already be in your car, right in line with the fuel pump. This line then attaches to the fuel pump with a short hose connection.

Re reading your post, don't see mention of the fact that you'll need a V-8 gas pedal that has an arm for the kickdown

rockafellz
Gearhead

Posts: 1459
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001

posted 02-18-2003 11:02 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for rockafellz        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mellowyellow:
You're missing one thing. A 6 cyl car has the gas line coming into the engine cmpt right alongside where the exhaust will be coming out on the V-8 model. The V-8 gas line get routed out side along the driver side frame rail, and into the engine cmpt through a hole, that may already be in your car, right in line with the fuel pump. This line then attaches to the fuel pump with a short hose connection.

Re reading your post, don't see mention of the fact that you'll need a V-8 gas pedal that has an arm for the kickdown


It's got a 289 in it already. I'm hoping the accelerator pedal has a connector for the kickdown cable. I've got the kickdown cable attached to the trans.

Erik

------------------
1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress

1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
Dad's - Original Unrestored

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