|
Author
|
Topic: Todays Progress
|
69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 1141
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
|
posted 10-13-2002 08:52 PM
   
Well the weather turned out ok today so after my football officials meeting I got to work on the Mustang. I spent nearly $30 on lights and door lock sets. I got all of the interior coutesy lights working and moved the switch that works from the passenger side to the drivers side and replaced the tail/brake lights. Adjusted the brakes until they were just starting to drag and rebled them, then took it for a cautious drive around the block. Still having to pump the brakes so I'm going to take it to my mechanic in the morning and let him bleed them and check them out while my wife goes and buys a tag. The 3 spd pulls strong in 2nd gear but it's a dog to get going with those 2.79's in the rear.The only lights I didn't get to were the instrument panel lights. How do you get to these in a 69? Do you reach up behind it or do you have to pull out the dash? ------------------
1969 Mustang Sportsroof
302 with 3 Speed Stick
!!!Totally Stock!!!
IP: Logged |
69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 1141
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
|
posted 10-14-2002 09:52 PM
Had her on the road most of the day today. She's a dog to get going but after that there's tons of torque through all 3 gears.Anyone know about the dash lights? I've got a few to replace so I need to know how to get to them. The temp and fuel guages aren't giving any readings but the temp guage works when I ground it to the manifold. Will replace the sending unit this coming weekend. Can I test the fuel guage the same way?
IP: Logged |
V8 Thumper
Gearhead Posts: 3267
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001
|
posted 10-15-2002 06:48 AM
The dash lights (on my '65) are only accessable by removing the panel  which in my car meant disconnecting the speedo cable from the trans first because there wasn't enough slack in the cable to allow me to swing it out far enough. Before you go to all that, get a wiring diagram and determine your instrument lighting wire color and test it. It may be a problem elsewhere, you may get away with not having to pull the cluster (doubtful, but you never know  )Fuel senders operate by voltage resistance and can only be tested with an ohm meter. If the sender works and the lead at the gauge reads similar ohm values, then the gauge itself is shot. [This message has been edited by V8 Thumper (edited 10-15-2002).]
IP: Logged |
rockafellz
Gearhead Posts: 1250
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001
|
posted 10-15-2002 10:34 AM
Hey Sportsroof,Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? Erik ------------------
1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress 1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
Dad's - Original Unrestored
IP: Logged |
69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 1141
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
|
posted 10-15-2002 11:47 AM
Thumper - I dont think its a wiring problem. The dash lights work, just not all of them. Doesn't the sending unit for the temp work the same way as the fuel guage sending unit (ohms)? That's why I was wondering if I cound just ground the connection at the sending unit and make the guage peg out.Erik - No, I didn't bench bleed it in the sense of looping the tubes. When I used the vacuum pump, it evidently cleared the air out. What I discovered was that my bleeder screws were letting air in around the threads. A little teflon tape (as I believe was mentioned by someone on this sight) around the threads and all is well. I did find out that the screw in plugs that came with my MS is what I should have used to bench bleed. The instructions say (who needs instructions??) to install the plugs and pour just enough fluid into the resivor to cover the holes and pump the MS starting with 3/4 to one inch strokes until the rod will only go in about 1/8 inch.
IP: Logged |
mustangzrule
Journeyman Posts: 87
From: Orion, MI
Registered: Sep 2002
|
posted 10-15-2002 01:43 PM
Instructions? Arrr arrrr (Tim Taylor) Who needs 'em.I had a small air leak from one of my copper gaskets that go between the caliper and the hose causing spongy brakes. I also replaced my power booster and MS becuase it would bleed down at at stop light and vacuum leaks would make the engine surge at idle. Brake design on these old cars is scary.
IP: Logged |
indyphil
Gearhead Posts: 642
From: Lafayette, IN, USA
Registered: Jul 2002
|
posted 10-15-2002 04:49 PM
The fuel sender can be tested in the way you described, pull the connector off at the tank and ground it to something, have someone sit in the car (careful - make sure you wont get squashed under the car) and they should switch the igntion on and see the gauge read full scale. That would mean you need a new sender unit, its common for the little brass float to corrode and, well... not float anymore. The sender unit isnt fun to do, you have to siphon all the fuel out, then remove the locking ring. Make sure you get a new locking ring and seal when you order the sender unit, its easy to make a mess of the old stuff in the struggle to get it off. good luck 
IP: Logged |
69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 1141
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
|
posted 10-15-2002 06:52 PM
I'll be very happy with replacing the sending unit if I dont have to remove the tank.I'm going to start a new thread about the dash lights. Thanks. [This message has been edited by 69 Sportsroof (edited 10-15-2002).]
IP: Logged |
Mustangsandmore Forums
UBBFriend: Email This Page to Someone! 
