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Author
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Topic: Best suspension mod for less than $150
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FASTFORD
Gearhead Posts: 105
From: USA
Registered: Aug 2002
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posted 10-11-2002 01:57 PM
   
My handle plain out sucks right now. I was going to cut my coil springs and do the shelby upper control arm relocation, but you told me my upper ball joint would bind, so I now I'm trying to decide between just doin the shelby mod, getting kyb shocks, getting 660# coil springs, or something else. I only have money to do one of these things. What do you suggest?------------------
1967 Mustang coupe
originally a c-code 289 with a c-4 tranny, I added holley 600cfm 4bbl, edelbrock performer intake manifold, hooker competition headers, and dual 3 chamber flowmaster exhaust
exterior is acapulco blue with black vinyl top
interior is stock with a kenwood cd player
goal is to have a streetable muscle car that can run with a late model cobra mustang
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68DARKHORSE
Gearhead Posts: 378
From: Austin, Tx
Registered: Aug 2002
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posted 10-11-2002 02:20 PM
I really like my 620# 1" drop coils. Look and handling are much improved.------------------
Alton 68 GT FASTBACK J code
http://www.bullittclub.com/phpBB/Uploads/1020432917.jpg
01 GT BULLITT
http://www.bullittclub.com/phpBB/Uploads/1020440453.jpg
70 SR 351C
96 OJ BRONCO
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67coupe
Gearhead Posts: 405
From: dallas NC usa
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 10-11-2002 05:29 PM
ive got bout 2"drop on 620 springs and the shelby mod with 16" wheels and a 1" sway bar and it corners real well------------------
Josh
67 coupe with 351c
94 Explorer
30 model A currently rustbucket
in process 67 convt with efi 5.0 and t5
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 19751
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 10-11-2002 08:11 PM
4 Koni adjustable shocks will cost you about twice that, but that will give you the most bang of the handling buck you can get on an early Mustang. Maybe a bit less if you shop around  ------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator/ non 65-66 Mustang owner sensitivity co-ordinator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00, '01, & '02
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Part time secret agent license #0089.5
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 33988
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 10-11-2002 09:52 PM
First of all, are all your steering and suspension components in good shape? ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150
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pthornton
Gearhead Posts: 601
From: Austin, TX USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 10-11-2002 10:17 PM
I vote for something else. Weld-in subframe connectors make a world of difference on a 30 year uni-body. You will be amazed how much better a car handles when it isn't twisting in the middle.------------------
Boss 302 & Saleen S281
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MidLifCrisis
Gearhead Posts: 282
From: USA
Registered: Oct 2001
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posted 10-11-2002 11:10 PM
I would first get the GT/Shelby 1" front sway bar with poly bushings. This will try to keep you car flat in the corners. A 1/2-5/8" rear sway bar would be next on my list. Number three would be the 620# coil springs with the 1" drop, or the progressive-rate coil springs which would maintain better ride quality, then the KYB shocks. If you are looking for corner carving handling this is how I would go. I you are looking for ride quality, I would start with the shocks and then springs. Hope this helps. Charlie
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Calcat
Journeyman Posts: 75
From: Los Angeles, CA
Registered: Feb 2002
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posted 10-12-2002 02:09 AM
I'm with Steve on this, all the mods in the world won't help if you have trashed bushings fatigued metal and a worn box. If you have not done a rebuild of the suspension/steering, that is the absolute first step.
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