Context : SB with hydraulic lifter, crane alum energizer roller rockers, alum heads, 7/16 screw-in studs & guide plates )

When on base circle (top of compression stroke of that cylinder), roll push-rods with fingers until a resistance is felt (zero lash) then 1/2 to 1 full turn. That's what I did last time, lifters were new and I never bothered checking later when engine was hot and lifters charged. Never heard lifter noise either

Now, I was told (by one of the local "specialist" ) that checking the preload while engine is running may be better but it seems to me that it would only apply to solid not hydraulic lifters. If so, how do you do that ?

You do one side at a time, taking the valve cover off, placing oil restrictors on the rocker arms to prevent a huge mess} and while the engine is running you back the rocker nut off until the rocker starts clacking, then you slowly tighten it until the clacking stops and you tighten it 1/4 turn more or whatever you prefer.

Some guys take an old valve cover and cut out the rocker nut area and use that to try to minimize the mess.

The key to not making a huge mess is to just be quick about it.

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Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
A good ear helps. LOL

You do one side at a time, taking the valve cover off, placing oil restrictors on the rocker arms to prevent a huge mess} and while the engine is running you back the rocker nut off until the rocker starts clacking, then you slowly tighten it until the clacking stops and you tighten it 1/4 turn more or whatever you prefer.

Some guys take an old valve cover and cut out the rocker nut area and use that to try to minimize the mess.

The key to not making a huge mess is to just be quick about it.

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Steve, (or anyone familiar with this procedure)

As I write this, I am about to do the hot adjustement procedure you described above. I want to make absolutely sure that I adjust it to the maximum preload possible to avoid repeating the same problem .

You say "1/4 turn or whatever I prefer" : since the rocker studs are 20 threads per inches, a full turn equals about 0.05 (Crane says 0.02 to 0.06).

Can I go a full turn without taking chances, when will I know that I've gone too far ?

I am holding my work until I hear from you guys..........thanks

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Originally posted by mustangboy:
Pierre this is the way I always adjust my valves.I do it just like Steve described with an old valve cover with the top cut off.No mess at all as long as you don't rev it up.I have adjusted mine both 1/4 and 1/2 turn didn't seem to make much difference.A full turn sounds like a lot to me though.I remember doing this in Auto class in highschool on a totally stock small block chevy.When you'd turn the nut to tighten the valve you could hear the engine kind of hesitate and then smoothen out again.If you went too far the engine wouldn't smoothen out again.Unfortunately my 302 doesn't seem to do this or at least I can't hear it with the headers and all.If you turn the pre-load too tight though you may not allow your valves to seat properly and could burn a valve.I wouldn't go more than 1/2 turn.I also don't find the oil restrictor thingys necessary using the cut out valve cover.

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator

NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
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NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00, '01, & '02
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The Barry of BarrysGrrl

I am just extra cautious on this considering what happened to my engine