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Author Topic:   Valve train adjustment recommendations
Pierre
Gearhead

Posts: 366
From: France
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 09-28-2002 08:57 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Pierre   Click Here to Email Pierre     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Considering my last engine issue (unsufficient lifter preload + push rods wear, which broke the lifter retainer spring & eventually the oil pump) I want to make sure of my valve adjustment method:

Context : SB with hydraulic lifter, crane alum energizer roller rockers, alum heads, 7/16 screw-in studs & guide plates )

When on base circle (top of compression stroke of that cylinder), roll push-rods with fingers until a resistance is felt (zero lash) then 1/2 to 1 full turn. That's what I did last time, lifters were new and I never bothered checking later when engine was hot and lifters charged. Never heard lifter noise either

Now, I was told (by one of the local "specialist" ) that checking the preload while engine is running may be better but it seems to me that it would only apply to solid not hydraulic lifters. If so, how do you do that ?

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 33988
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 09-28-2002 06:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
What you are describing is just a preliminary valve adjustment, in order to get the engine running. You should follow it up with a running adjustment.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150

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Pierre
Gearhead

Posts: 366
From: France
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 09-28-2002 07:01 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Pierre   Click Here to Email Pierre     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
How do you do that (running adjustement) ?.........Do I need a musician's ear ?

HELP !!

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 33988
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 09-28-2002 07:11 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
A good ear helps. LOL

You do one side at a time, taking the valve cover off, placing oil restrictors on the rocker arms to prevent a huge mess} and while the engine is running you back the rocker nut off until the rocker starts clacking, then you slowly tighten it until the clacking stops and you tighten it 1/4 turn more or whatever you prefer.

Some guys take an old valve cover and cut out the rocker nut area and use that to try to minimize the mess.

The key to not making a huge mess is to just be quick about it.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150

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Pierre
Gearhead

Posts: 366
From: France
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 10-23-2002 09:49 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Pierre   Click Here to Email Pierre     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
A good ear helps. LOL

You do one side at a time, taking the valve cover off, placing oil restrictors on the rocker arms to prevent a huge mess} and while the engine is running you back the rocker nut off until the rocker starts clacking, then you slowly tighten it until the clacking stops and you tighten it 1/4 turn more or whatever you prefer.

Some guys take an old valve cover and cut out the rocker nut area and use that to try to minimize the mess.

The key to not making a huge mess is to just be quick about it.


Steve, (or anyone familiar with this procedure)

As I write this, I am about to do the hot adjustement procedure you described above. I want to make absolutely sure that I adjust it to the maximum preload possible to avoid repeating the same problem .

You say "1/4 turn or whatever I prefer" : since the rocker studs are 20 threads per inches, a full turn equals about 0.05 (Crane says 0.02 to 0.06).

Can I go a full turn without taking chances, when will I know that I've gone too far ?

I am holding my work until I hear from you guys..........thanks

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mustangboy
Gearhead

Posts: 670
From: Ont, Canada
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 10-23-2002 10:33 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mustangboy     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Pierre this is the way I always adjust my valves.I do it just like Steve described with an old valve cover with the top cut off.No mess at all as long as you don't rev it up.I have adjusted mine both 1/4 and 1/2 turn didn't seem to make much difference.A full turn sounds like a lot to me though.I remember doing this in Auto class in highschool on a totally stock small block chevy.When you'd turn the nut to tighten the valve you could hear the engine kind of hesitate and then smoothen out again.If you went too far the engine wouldn't smoothen out again.Unfortunately my 302 doesn't seem to do this or at least I can't hear it with the headers and all.If you turn the pre-load too tight though you may not allow your valves to seat properly and could burn a valve.I wouldn't go more than 1/2 turn.I also don't find the oil restrictor thingys necessary using the cut out valve cover.

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1968 mustang j-code [email protected] 1963Falcon waiting for a rebirth.

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Pierre
Gearhead

Posts: 366
From: France
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 10-23-2002 11:45 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Pierre   Click Here to Email Pierre     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mustangboy:
Pierre this is the way I always adjust my valves.I do it just like Steve described with an old valve cover with the top cut off.No mess at all as long as you don't rev it up.I have adjusted mine both 1/4 and 1/2 turn didn't seem to make much difference.A full turn sounds like a lot to me though.I remember doing this in Auto class in highschool on a totally stock small block chevy.When you'd turn the nut to tighten the valve you could hear the engine kind of hesitate and then smoothen out again.If you went too far the engine wouldn't smoothen out again.Unfortunately my 302 doesn't seem to do this or at least I can't hear it with the headers and all.If you turn the pre-load too tight though you may not allow your valves to seat properly and could burn a valve.I wouldn't go more than 1/2 turn.I also don't find the oil restrictor thingys necessary using the cut out valve cover.


Ok, I'll go for a 1/2 turn.
Thanks

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Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 19751
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 10-23-2002 02:50 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
1/4 would be even better for high RPM use.

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Alex Denysenko
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Pierre
Gearhead

Posts: 366
From: France
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 10-23-2002 04:14 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Pierre   Click Here to Email Pierre     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
If 1/4 works for you guys I don't see why it wouldn't work for my engine ! Right !

I am just extra cautious on this considering what happened to my engine

Thanks to all of you again !

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