Author
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Topic: Ice - 351W swap into '68 coupe
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mustangzrule Journeyman Posts: 87 From: Orion, MI Registered: Sep 2002
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posted 09-25-2002 11:32 AM
Had a 302 coupe and decided to put in a 351W(with a little extra displacement-for insurance). Skipping the engine details for the swap details, here is what I dealt with:Engine swap headers - required especially for power steering cars. Most expensive part for the swap. $100-$350 NEW motor mounts - too much torque busted the stock ones and twisted my engine in the chassis. Not good. and scary because the throttle bound up and I had to turn the key off while sliding sideways in my own smoke cloud. $40 Beware of the Vic Jr intake - you will NOT get your hood on with any drop base air cleaner. I don't know for sure, but RPM intake should fit with a drop base unit. Drop base unit $35 Bigger radiator - more CID makes more heat. I had an old copper/brass 2 core and got a Griffin aluminum monster. $200 Smoking the crap out of all rice burners and a serious majority of cars driven on the street - PRICELESS.... Additional info: I put in a performance C4 tranny and kept my limited slip 2.79 rear. 2000 RPM @ 65 with enough torque to break traction in second gear. This is not necessary, but someone will ask what tranny I used. Also swapped the points for a Duraspark. Would have been happier with MSD, oh well, I'm young and have time. I know this isn't specifically swap related, but I hate points. $35 at scrapyard including harness and coil. All in all, the swap was very simple and except for the $3500 stroker kit, it was cheap too. Talk about torque. I smoked a Z28 so bad I thought he slowed down for the cops. His car sounded pretty bad too. But after the 1/8 mile impromptu drag race, I beat him by about 10 car lengths. Lined up twice more and he was just plain amazed. No timeslips yet, but I estimate I have a 12 second car on street tires. I need frame ties before I end up busting something. The 351 is my favorite engine of all time. the blocks are so solid and the bores and mains are always straight. Not like the chebby 350 where you gotta get a small base cam just to get 383 cubes. And chebby smallblocks are weaker. Yeah, I'm geeked. I've been wanting this since 1987 but been too broke to finish it. but I ramble...
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68stang351 Gearhead Posts: 267 From: Savoy TX, USA Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 09-25-2002 01:33 PM
I like 68 coupes with 351W's! Sounds just like mine except I've got a 5 speed.The RPM does fit, and I don't even have a drop base air cleaner. BARELY! Cool car! ------------------ Hoofbeats are louder than Heartbeats! 68 Coupe, now with a 351W and 5speed. Now officially dubbed "THE PIT" New addition: 63 Fairlane 500!!
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JT Gearhead Posts: 186 From: Pearland, Texas, USA Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 09-25-2002 02:49 PM
'68 with a 351W... I like it! Mine still wears the stock '70 2-barrel intake.------------------ JT FOR SALE: '68 Coupe w/351W, C4, P/S, 8" w/3.25, Orig. paint (Wimbelton White) & interior (Ivy Gold), A/C (not working) '01 BULLITT #3357, Dark Highland Green
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68stang351 Gearhead Posts: 267 From: Savoy TX, USA Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 09-25-2002 03:11 PM
JT, did you go to ennis? They had a bullit parade with over 60 bullets, then they lined them up in the parking lot in the pit area and mm&ff took pics.We should start some kind of gang of 68 coupes with 351W's. ------------------ Hoofbeats are louder than Heartbeats! 68 Coupe, now with a 351W and 5speed. Now officially dubbed "THE PIT" New addition: 63 Fairlane 500!!
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ice'68 Gearhead Posts: 127 From: Fresno, CA Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 09-25-2002 10:13 PM
Wow, thanks a lot for the info MustangzRule. What Motor Mounts did you pick up? Oh yea, I'm planning on dropping a RPM Air-Gap Manifold in there, already have the drop base air cleaner. You smoked a Z28 with 2.79 gears? Mine should really move then with my 3.55's.P.S I already have the big 3-core HD Radiator since my beefed up 289 is/was giving me heating problems. Hey Stang351, I'm with that idea about having a 351W's with '68 Coupe's Club [This message has been edited by ice'68 (edited 09-25-2002).]
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JT Gearhead Posts: 186 From: Pearland, Texas, USA Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 09-26-2002 01:02 AM
68stang351, no, I wasn't able to make it to Ennis. I had to work. I would have loved to see that. ------------------ JT FOR SALE: '68 Coupe w/351W, C4, P/S, 8" w/3.25, Orig. paint (Wimbelton White) & interior (Ivy Gold), A/C (not working) '01 BULLITT #3357, Dark Highland Green
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68stang351 Gearhead Posts: 267 From: Savoy TX, USA Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 09-26-2002 10:36 AM
While we're on the Z28 subject, I've had 2 of them and a Trans Am (All 93-97) back off from me. What gives? These are the cars that I'm gauging my cars performance off of, and I can't get one to race to see how I do?And I had a new SS do a ricer fly by that pissed me off so much. He wouldn't stop beside me and let us go with a fair race. Words can not express my anger!! ------------------ Hoofbeats are louder than Heartbeats! 68 Coupe, now with a 351W and 5speed. Now officially dubbed "THE PIT" New addition: 63 Fairlane 500!!
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mustangzrule Journeyman Posts: 87 From: Orion, MI Registered: Sep 2002
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posted 09-26-2002 01:14 PM
I used replacement mounts from carparts.com And add a torque strap for insurance.
http://www.carparts.com/parts/sample2.asp?autoidsearch=YES&segmentid=&parttypeid=19017&parttype=Gaskets%2C+Seals%2C+Hardware+and+Mounts&componentname=MOUNT%2C+ENGINE&partid=7780462 &reflink=16733-0-0-0-0
[This message has been edited by mustangzrule (edited 09-26-2002).]
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68stang351 Gearhead Posts: 267 From: Savoy TX, USA Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 09-26-2002 01:27 PM
That torque strap sounds like a good idea. I bought regular old motor mounts from the parts store, for a 302, but the windsor moves a little too much for my comfort when I rev.------------------ Hoofbeats are louder than Heartbeats! 68 Coupe, now with a 351W and 5speed. Now officially dubbed "THE PIT" New addition: 63 Fairlane 500!!
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mustangzrule Journeyman Posts: 87 From: Orion, MI Registered: Sep 2002
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posted 09-26-2002 01:58 PM
quote: the windsor moves a little too much for my comfort when I rev. [/B]
Wait till you floor it in gear! The motor looks like it wants to jump out of the box!
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indyphil Gearhead Posts: 877 From: Lafayette, IN, USA Registered: Jul 2002
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posted 09-26-2002 02:39 PM
I have been thinking about a 351W in the 68, thanks for all the info. So most of you guys run an 8 inch rear end?Also where did you find a griffen aluminum radiator for 200 bucks? I think i will play with the 289 for a while but its nice info, good to hear that you have fulfilled an ambition. ------------------ '68 coupe 289 2V CAT engine performance engineer
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ice'68 Gearhead Posts: 127 From: Fresno, CA Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 09-26-2002 11:09 PM
quote: Originally posted by 68stang351: That torque strap sounds like a good idea. I bought regular old motor mounts from the parts store, for a 302, but the windsor moves a little too much for my comfort when I rev.
I priced a Torque Strap from Jegs at about $105
Jegs also lists a Mid-Mount plate for about $55, would that be better?
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JCQuinn@work Gearhead Posts: 440 From: Lakewood, CO, USA Registered: Jun 2001
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posted 09-27-2002 11:58 AM
The last torque strap I used I made from a large turnbuckle. I fabricated a couple of mounting tabs from scrap metal and brazed the loop on the turnbuckle ends so that it would not yield. It looked real nice and cost less than $10.00.Make your own torque strap its easy, just use your imagination. There are lots of ways to do it. A mid plate is a plate sandwiched between the block and the bellhousing with ears that rest on the frame. In order to install it you need to adjust the bellhousing to block to compensate for the mid plate thickness and then weld some tabs to the frame so that the ears can be solidly attached. It is a lot more work than making a torque strap. John
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mustangzrule Journeyman Posts: 87 From: Orion, MI Registered: Sep 2002
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posted 09-27-2002 02:55 PM
Griffin 29" radiator $198 4 years ago from Summit. They probably jacked the price up because of the terrorism thing. I have no idea how aluminum radiators relate to terrorism, but it seems everybody is using it as an excuse to jack up prices. It's a nice radiator.
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mustangzrule Journeyman Posts: 87 From: Orion, MI Registered: Sep 2002
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posted 09-27-2002 02:57 PM
Woo hoo! still less than $200! http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=3341 WARNING: This radiator Does NOT have tranny cooling line hookups.
[This message has been edited by mustangzrule (edited 09-27-2002).]
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mustangzrule Journeyman Posts: 87 From: Orion, MI Registered: Sep 2002
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posted 09-27-2002 03:00 PM
A "plate" to my understanding is a sheet of aluminum that goes between the block and bellhousing which then bolts to the chassis. It will make the engine stiff and all torque will be transmitted to the frame. You will get a rougher riding car from engine vibration. It si definately stronger and that price is too good to be true if you ask me. I'v seen them starting at $150 typically.
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ice'68 Gearhead Posts: 127 From: Fresno, CA Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 10-04-2002 12:00 AM
How much did your Torque Strap cost and where did you acquire it from? Or did you fabricate it your self?
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jsracingbbf Gearhead Posts: 1853 From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A. Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 10-04-2002 12:11 AM
I can't tell you anything about this swap but I can tell you a Mid-plate is primarily designed for tube or 2x3 frame rail race cars. If you want pics of how a mid-plate looks mounted I can send you pics of mine. If I were you I'd go with the torque strap. Get a piece of 4 or 6 inch flat bar and make a bracket to bolt to the passenger head bolts ( the ones in the front for the accesories ) then weld a piece of angle to that, make it 45 degrees towards the stock frame rail. Fit a small piece of angle over the fram rail and drill some holes through it and through the frame. Now weld the angle coming from the head to the angle bolted onto the frame rail. You now have a NON adjustable torque strap. The turnbuckle type would be adjustable. Be sure to make it removable at the frame. You don't want to fight this thing later when you try to remove the engine. Good Luck C ya
------------------ Jerry Smith 69 Mustang Pro ET Drag 70 Mustang retired former footbrake car "Drag Racing, the most fun you can have with your clothes on"
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jsracingbbf Gearhead Posts: 1853 From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A. Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 10-04-2002 12:12 AM
Correction I meant DRIVER side head. I had a brain melt for a second Later Jerry
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68 S-code GT Gearhead Posts: 1129 From: Sayreville, NJ, US Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 10-04-2002 07:48 AM
quote: Originally posted by mustangzrule: Engine swap headers - required especially for power steering cars. Most expensive part for the swap. $100-$350 ..
I?ve used different brands of 302 or 69-70 351W headers in the past to do the swap with no problems with PS. What problems did you encounter with power steering?
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mustangzrule Journeyman Posts: 87 From: Orion, MI Registered: Sep 2002
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posted 10-04-2002 10:01 AM
I got the cheap Summit $100 engine swap headers and the driver side collector had less than 1/8 inch clearance from the PS piston and bracket. Engine twist would cause them to rub under accel, and I removed my PS setup until I can relocate, replace, or bend the crap out of the header.
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ice'68 Gearhead Posts: 127 From: Fresno, CA Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 10-04-2002 09:01 PM
So, no one sells Torque Straps? I'm not that good at fabricating stuff and welding
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