Author
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Topic: Getting It Going
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69 Sportsroof Gearhead Posts: 982 From: Valley, Alabama, USA Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 09-25-2002 10:34 AM
At least trying to....Have started with getting our new Mustang running. Drained the oil - no grit. Pulled the plugs - no oil. Sprayed the carb down with carb cleaner - everything moves freely (still gonna kit it out). Shot a few squirts of trans fluid in each spark plug hole. Put in 5 quarts of 10W/30 oil with new filter and a can of gunk engine flush. Removed the distributor hold down clamp and the dang distributor will not move at all. The shaft will move a little so I know its not seized up but the distributor housing will not move. I've beat on it with a rubber mallet. I sprayed the base with PB Blaster and let it soak overnight. I even whacked it with a hammer and chisel and still nothing. Put an adjustable chain style oil filter wrench around it with a long handle and popped the chain off of the wrench. My next move is going to be to heat up the base with a butane torch and put a 6 inch pipe wrench on it and see if that will do it. Looks like I'm going to have to replace the distributor before I'm done. So, for anyone keeping tabs this is minor setback #1. ------------------ 1969 Mustang Sportsroof 302 with 3 Speed Stick !!!Totally Stock!!!
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 31026 From: Saco, Maine Registered: May 99
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posted 09-25-2002 07:52 PM
Let the penetrating oil soak, that should do it. If you tap at the end of the vacuum advance canister lightly with the rubber mallet, you'll be able to work it back and forth and it will loosen. I've run into this many, many times before. ------------------ '70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150
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johnmustang Gearhead Posts: 3349 From: Vancouver Island , British Columbia , Canada Registered: Nov 2001
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posted 09-25-2002 08:25 PM
This will sound stupid , but , why the atf in each spark plug hole ? Is it to de-glaze the cylinder walls and lube the cylinder ? I know I should know , but , I do not . JOHN ------------------ 65 2+2 FASTBACK 68 COUPE 87 TAURUS WAGON 98 F150 XLT TRITON V8 4.6, 4 WHEEL DRIVE Member:Vancouver Island Mustang Association M&M #1710 MyPhotoPage MY TRUCK
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Dave Gibson Moderator Posts: 6819 From: Pensacola, Florida, USA M&M#166 MCA#47921 Registered: Aug 99
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posted 09-25-2002 08:54 PM
Dave, Blast the distributor with plenty of PB blast or WD-40. Work it slowly with the rubber mallet. You should not need to heat it up with a torch. If you do have to heat it up, make sure you clean up the PB blast or WD-40 first. You could end up with a big fire. Dave & Terri------------------ Poison Ivy (Dave's) '65 Fastback Modified 289 4V, C-4, dual exhaust, styled steel wheels, rally pac, A/C '02 Explorer XLT, Black, 3.73:1 limited slip, class III tow package!
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Cruzer Gearhead Posts: 248 From: Lancaster, South Carolina, USA Registered: May 99
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posted 09-25-2002 09:04 PM
Man, it's sounds like it's really stuck! Try this, Take the hold down bolt & clamp off & turn the engine over using the starter just a bit & see if it will break loose. Maybe it will break loose. Soak it down good with oil or a rust breaker type stuff.
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69 Sportsroof Gearhead Posts: 982 From: Valley, Alabama, USA Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 09-25-2002 10:29 PM
Dave and Steve - Thanks, but...Rubber mallet? HAHAHAHAHAHA PB Blaster? HAHAHAHAHA Propane torch? HAHAHAHAHAHA Seriously, I just got finished with it. Been working on it for 4 1/2 hours. The PB Blaster has been soaking since Sunday. I beat on the thing all evening Monday with a rubber mallet. Didn't give an inch. I could turn it about 1/4 inch in each direction with an 18 inch pipe (monkey) wrench with a long pipe on the end. Kept this up until I broke the rim off of the housing all the way around. The way we finally got it out was to take a huge pry bar and put it between the intake and the distributor and pry it up while beating up on the other side with a steel hammer. I'll post pics soon. I'll also post a pic of what I saw when I took off the valve cover. Cleanest piece of iron I've ever seen. Anyway, I had the opportunity to spin the oil pump with the fresh oil and it pumped up nicely. All rockers are receiving oil. Now have to kit the carb and get a new distributor and battery. John - The atf is to loosen up the rings before I turn the engine over by hand. It's pretty good at disolving deposits. Brandon - I've never had it out. Just got the Mustang Friday. See the post entitled HEY!!! in Sam's Place. Cruzer - Wasn't going to turn it over with the starter until I got everything loosened up by hand. Thanks for the suggestions. I've never seen anything like this. Oh well, it's done now.
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Dave Gibson Moderator Posts: 6819 From: Pensacola, Florida, USA M&M#166 MCA#47921 Registered: Aug 99
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posted 09-25-2002 11:07 PM
Dave, Glad to hear that you got the distributor out. Never heard of anyone having so many problems before. At least it is out. Hopefully this is your biggest problem. Have fun and keep us posted please. Dave & Terri ------------------ Poison Ivy (Dave's) '65 Fastback Modified 289 4V, C-4, dual exhaust, styled steel wheels, rally pac, A/C '02 Explorer XLT, Black, 3.73:1 limited slip, class III tow package!
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jsracingbbf Gearhead Posts: 1217 From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A. Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 09-26-2002 01:03 AM
I had the same problem on a 78 3/4 ton Pick-up with a 351 in it. I had to use a rail road pry bar and pry the distributor out. Amazingly it only ruined the distributor. I tried soaking it in Kroil for a week first but no dice. Glad you got it. ------------------ Jerry Smith 69 Mustang Pro ET Drag 70 Mustang retired former footbrake car "Drag Racing, the most fun you can have with your clothes on"
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