Brought to you in part by:

.

Shop Eastwood for your Auto Restoration Needs!


  Mustangsandmore Forums
  '64 1/2 to '73 -- The Classic Mustang
  Overheating

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
profile | register | preferences | faq | search

UBBFriend: Email This Page to Someone! next newest topic | next oldest topic
Author Topic:   Overheating
'69PonyRider
Gearhead

Posts: 141
From: Hawthorne, CA
Registered: Sep 2001

posted 09-25-2002 01:38 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for '69PonyRider   Click Here to Email '69PonyRider     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hey, after a night out I was running "sustained high rpm's" if ya know what i mean well after that my engine overheated, and now after that night it has been overheating constantly. Is there a way that my water pump could not be turning on the inside? It doesnt leak water or anything and I replaced the thermostat. What else can i look at? Timing is at 21* now, but that night it was at 12*. Still overheats. This is very frustrating!

IP: Logged

Pierre
Gearhead

Posts: 366
From: France
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 09-25-2002 05:09 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Pierre   Click Here to Email Pierre     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
From what you are describing, I would recommend checking:

Internal causes: blown head gasket (check for high pressure in your water system right from the start), clogged cooling passages

External: rubbing brakes (ruled out if overheat when parked !!), broken fan clutch
unusual engine load

Hope it is not too serious !

IP: Logged

V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 3529
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 09-25-2002 08:08 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Agreed; Pierre has good advice there. I'd also suspect a bad thermostat.

To check for a head gasket failure (let's hope not ), check for: water in the oil~ dipstick sample could be milky. Bubbles in the coolant- BE CAREFUL checking this one, remove radiator cap long before the motor gets up to running temp. Coolant expansion alone can blow that thing right out of your hand, spewing scalding hot water all over you , not to mention the possibility of cylinder compression (possibily) pressurizing the water jacket due to a bad head gasket. Be cautious

IP: Logged

'69PonyRider
Gearhead

Posts: 141
From: Hawthorne, CA
Registered: Sep 2001

posted 09-25-2002 11:40 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for '69PonyRider   Click Here to Email '69PonyRider     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
by the brakes you mean that they arent adjusted properly?? because now that i think of it when i brake it pulls to the left and they do feel kinda awkward....ill check everything else too though. thanx!

IP: Logged

mustangzrule
Journeyman

Posts: 87
From: Orion, MI
Registered: Sep 2002

posted 09-25-2002 11:44 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mustangzrule   Click Here to Email mustangzrule     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have had the water pump shaft break internally and the water was not moving even though the shaft turned. The turbine breaks off from the shaft. Sounds like what you have.

IP: Logged

Pierre
Gearhead

Posts: 366
From: France
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 09-25-2002 11:55 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Pierre   Click Here to Email Pierre     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by '69PonyRider:
by the brakes you mean that they arent adjusted properly?? because now that i think of it when i brake it pulls to the left and they do feel kinda awkward....ill check everything else too though. thanx!

After driving a bit, pull over (trying not to brake) and touch your wheel's disk & drum, if your skins stays stuck to it, chances are this is your problem

As for the pump shaft, as suggested by mustangzrule, take the rad cap off (using V8 Thumper's procedure !!)and look if water is flowing when you rev it.

IP: Logged

SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 33988
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 09-25-2002 07:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by '69PonyRider:
Is there a way that my water pump could not be turning on the inside? It doesnt leak water or anything and I replaced the thermostat. What else can i look at?

It possible, I suppose. Can you see water flow in the radiator when the engine is running?

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150

IP: Logged

Square Pants
Journeyman

Posts: 35
From: Phoenix, AZ
Registered: Aug 2002

posted 09-25-2002 09:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Square Pants     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I had a Ranger that had overheating problems and it turned out being the hose that goes from the radiator to the water pump collapsing on itself...

Just trying to think on an inexpensive solution...

------------------
-Lee
73 Convertible, 351C-2V, FMX, Headers and Dual Exhaust
And saving up for the next project...

IP: Logged

'69PonyRider
Gearhead

Posts: 141
From: Hawthorne, CA
Registered: Sep 2001

posted 09-26-2002 02:29 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for '69PonyRider   Click Here to Email '69PonyRider     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Last time i checked, when i removed the rad cap the water was running. Maybe it was just my imagination though. If the gasket is bad, will it leak oil too? There is an oil leak behind the engine near the head and the header, that i cannot find a source to, just wondering if a bad gasket will be the cause of that. I checked the oil this morning and it was black and thick, no sign of water. I just had a thought, when I changed the shocks the other day i took of the drum to check the bearings, I hand-tightened the nut, or so i thought. Ill double check that tomorrow as well. Thanx!

-Aldo-

quote:
Originally posted by Square Pants:
Just trying to think on an inexpensive solution...


Yes im in denile trying to forget that i might have a blown head gasket!

IP: Logged

bgseib
Gearhead

Posts: 109
From: Tyler, TX, USA
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 09-26-2002 02:06 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for bgseib   Click Here to Email bgseib     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have a question about that... I think I may have a blown head gastket also.. There is flow in the cooling system, BUT there are a lot of bubbles running through it. Is a blown head gasket all that can cause a violent bubbling problem in the coolant water. I cannot find any leaks anywhere either..

Thanks,
Brian

IP: Logged

johnmustang
Gearhead

Posts: 4504
From: Vancouver Island , British Columbia , Canada
Registered: Nov 2001

posted 09-26-2002 02:12 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for johnmustang   Click Here to Email johnmustang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by bgseib:
I have a question about that... I think I may have a blown head gastket also.. There is flow in the cooling system, BUT there are a lot of bubbles running through it. Is a blown head gasket all that can cause a violent bubbling problem in the coolant water. I cannot find any leaks anywhere either..

Thanks,
Brian


Unfortunatly it sounds like you have a bad head/heads or head/heads gasket

JOHN

------------------
65 2+2 FASTBACK
68 COUPE
87 TAURUS WAGON
98 F150 XLT TRITON V8 4.6, 4 WHEEL DRIVE
Member:Vancouver Island Mustang Association
M&M #1710
MyPhotoPage
MY TRUCK

IP: Logged

'69PonyRider
Gearhead

Posts: 141
From: Hawthorne, CA
Registered: Sep 2001

posted 09-26-2002 06:16 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for '69PonyRider   Click Here to Email '69PonyRider     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I double checked mine and there are some bubbles in the water but it seems its from just jumping aroung when i rev it up. after a while some white foam started foarming in the water. also i stopped after not driving too long and i touched one rear brake and it was hotter than the other side. another thing, my engine is a 351C and i have a 2 row rad, could this be it also??? or maybe a combination of all these things making it overheat? well imma start with the rad and go from there I already found a rad for 156 3 rows, oh! about that....the 69 they only have 2 row radiators for sale, can i fit another year radiator into my 69?? the radiator i found for 3 rows is for a 72, i know it wont fit, i was gonna make it fit though, heh. sorry im rambling im late for school and trying to squeeze in this post. thanks.

IP: Logged

RonnieT
Gearhead

Posts: 637
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99

posted 09-26-2002 08:24 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for RonnieT   Click Here to Email RonnieT     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
They make 3 row bolt in radiators for a 69, or you can use the 3 row bracket mounts for a 70. It all depends on how your radiator is mounted now.

http://catalogs.google.com/catalogs?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&issue=8747&catpage=134

------------------
Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V engineless at the time!
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23

IP: Logged

mustangzrule
Journeyman

Posts: 87
From: Orion, MI
Registered: Sep 2002

posted 09-27-2002 02:36 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mustangzrule   Click Here to Email mustangzrule     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
You aren't by any chance running without a thermostat? Water will circulate too fast to cool off if you don't have one. You at least have to have a restrictor to slow the water.

IP: Logged

Pierre
Gearhead

Posts: 366
From: France
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 09-27-2002 03:51 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Pierre   Click Here to Email Pierre     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by '69PonyRider:
I double checked mine and there are some bubbles in the water but it seems its from just jumping aroung when i rev it up. after a while some white foam started foarming in the water. also i stopped after not driving too long and i touched one rear brake and it was hotter than the other side. another thing, my engine is a 351C and i have a 2 row rad, could this be it also??? or maybe a combination of all these things making it overheat? well imma start with the rad and go from there I already found a rad for 156 3 rows, oh! about that....the 69 they only have 2 row radiators for sale, can i fit another year radiator into my 69?? the radiator i found for 3 rows is for a 72, i know it wont fit, i was gonna make it fit though, heh. sorry im rambling im late for school and trying to squeeze in this post. thanks.

If it just started overheating and was fine before (but was it ?), it is probably one single event that caused it. You need to run a cooling system pressure test or engine compression test (easier). If one cylinder is way down, that's probably it. You can buy an engine compression testing gauge for 20$ and it'll tell you how to run the test on the handbook that comes with it

As for your brakes, they have to grab really hard for your car to overheat, you could cook a steak on them that's how hot it'll get.

It is unlikely (to answer your question) that you would get an oil leak with a blown head gasket.

keep us posted

IP: Logged

Pierre
Gearhead

Posts: 366
From: France
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 09-27-2002 03:58 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Pierre   Click Here to Email Pierre     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mustangzrule:
You aren't by any chance running without a thermostat? Water will circulate too fast to cool off if you don't have one. You at least have to have a restrictor to slow the water.

Running without a thermostat will actually increase the time it takes for your engine to reach operating temperature when you start it. Oil will be thicker longer , lubrication will be poor and your engine will suffer. This is especially bad in the winter where your engine may never fully warm up !! You can do a test without it to see if it is your problem though

IP: Logged

'69PonyRider
Gearhead

Posts: 141
From: Hawthorne, CA
Registered: Sep 2001

posted 09-28-2002 01:44 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for '69PonyRider   Click Here to Email '69PonyRider     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
ok...well my engine was running perfectly fine before that night...now it overheats all the time after driving for about 1/2 and hour. BUT! today i triple checked the bubble test in the radiator, AFTER putting in a brand spankin new thermostat, 180* to be exact. well now that the water was running a lot slower (or not at all), some bubbles came out of the radiator at intervals of about 3-5 secs each. the water would also rise over the top(slowly) of the radiator and drip out, and bubbles would come out. i had also put in a new hose because the one i had, had the coil thing inside rusting and i found pieces of it floating around the hose. that was today also. anyways after taht i was kinda scared to run it because i saw the bubbles and thought i had a bad gasket, but i took a test drive on the highway and i purposely tried to overheat it by going fast but it never went past the 1/4 mark on my gauge, so im dazzled. oh yeah i also flushed the radiator about 3 or 4 times and i flushed the engine like 3 times as well. i took the hose out just in case some big debris was in there, but nothing. imma do the compresion test this weekend, i have the thing but i didnt know that i could use it for this. thanks a lot!

IP: Logged

All times are ET (US)

next newest topic | next oldest topic

Administrative Options: Close Topic | Archive/Move | Delete Topic
Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Hop to:

Contact Us | Mustangsandmore Front Page

Copyright 2003, Steve LaRiviere. All Rights Reserved.


Ultimate Bulletin Board 5.47d

Amazon Honor System Click Here to Pay Learn More

[Build a free Mustangsandmore.ws Home Page!]

[About M&M][Acronyms][Calendar][Chat][Classifieds] [Members' Pics] [M&M Mug Shots]

[ Mustangsandmore.com Bookstore] [Mustangsandmore.com T-Shirts][Tech Articles]