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Author Topic:   Front spring eye bolts
indyphil
Gearhead

Posts: 877
From: Lafayette, IN, USA
Registered: Jul 2002

posted 09-13-2002 02:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for indyphil   Click Here to Email indyphil     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I bought some 4-1/2 leaf springs from mustang plus, and am in the process of replacing the old ones.

Am having the usual trouble with the front eye bolts. Should I go and buy a blow torch or should I rent a saw and try and cut the mess out? I had heard these things were tough but I had no idea!!

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'68 coupe 289 2V
CAT engine performance engineer

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indyphil
Gearhead

Posts: 877
From: Lafayette, IN, USA
Registered: Jul 2002

posted 09-13-2002 02:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for indyphil   Click Here to Email indyphil     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
PS When I do get them off and put the new ones on I will let you know how the 4-1/2 leafs work. main reason for getting them was that i had 24 inches of wheel arch to ground clearance at the back (sagging is an understatement) Mustang plus sent them, plus HD shackles (poly bushed) and new shocks.

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oldmustangjunkie
Journeyman

Posts: 27
From:
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 09-13-2002 02:59 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for oldmustangjunkie   Click Here to Email oldmustangjunkie     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I use a sawzall with a tungsten blade. The torch makes flaming rubber fall on you.

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Dave_C
Gearhead

Posts: 755
From: Gadsden, Al
Registered: Aug 99

posted 09-13-2002 03:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dave_C   Click Here to Email Dave_C     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I had the same problem with rusted spring eye bolts on my 69 Fastback a couple of years ago. I came up with a little tool to get them out. No sawzall, no torch. Costs about $3. You will need a piece of threaded rod the same thread as the spring eye bolt. 1/2"X 20 I think. You will also need two of those really long nuts that you use you use to join sections of threaded rod together, one regular nut and a piece of scrap plate.

You already have the nut off, spray with penetrating oil and let sit overnight.

Assemble as shown:
http://home.earthlink.net/~racrcole/_uimages/pressA.jpg

Turn one long nut until it is also threaded onto the spring eye bolt, joining the spring eye bolt and threaded rod together, lock the long nut into place, using the regular nut as a jam nut. Only thread the long nut onto the eye bolt as little as possible. Make sure to leave a gap between the long nut and the frame rail.
As shown: http://home.earthlink.net/~racrcole/_uimages/pressB.jpg

Hold the first long nut (the one locked into place by the jam nut) with a wrench. Turn the other nut with a wrench to lengthen the whole setup. Place the piece of scrap between the nut and rocker panel for it to press on without tearing up the rocker flange.
As shown: http://home.earthlink.net/~racrcole/_uimages/pressC.jpg

The press will break the bolt loose from the rusty inner sleeve. Tighten until the long nut is flush against the frame. I got one side out very easy then. The other side was still sticking a little, even though it was broken loose so I backed the long nut/jam nut off and kept turning, just used the threaded rod to push the eye bolt out. A little slippery at first when the eyebolt was flush with the frame rail, but got easy once it moved down in the hole and the hole keeps the eye bolt and threaded rod aligned, even though they weren't attached anymore.

Later,

David Cole

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T5owner
Gearhead

Posts: 631
From: Germany
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 09-13-2002 05:03 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for T5owner     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Good advise above, but I tried similar, but apparently not so good "press methods" on my 68 denting the frame, later used the cutter wheel on my drill with some rubber mats in the direction of the gas tank!

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indyphil
Gearhead

Posts: 877
From: Lafayette, IN, USA
Registered: Jul 2002

posted 09-13-2002 07:05 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for indyphil   Click Here to Email indyphil     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Been at it all afternoon with a sawzall. I think it needs a better blade. the one that came with the saw isnt upto the job.

In any case I think I will try the press method tomorrow, it looks pretty good, great advice thanks Dave.

------------------
'68 coupe 289 2V
CAT engine performance engineer

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indyphil
Gearhead

Posts: 877
From: Lafayette, IN, USA
Registered: Jul 2002

posted 09-14-2002 01:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for indyphil   Click Here to Email indyphil     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Ok, the stinking threaded rod just bends.
Not in a good mood today. So i went and melted the rubber out of the way to really get at it with the sawzall. Now im blunting every blade that Lowes/sears has.

Total cost so far (on top of the springs)
30 dollars for blades and threaded bolts/nuts
80 dollars for reciprocating saw

Anybody have any idea who might sell a tungsten blade? You'd think it wouldnt be that hard to find a tungsten blade.

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oldmustangjunkie
Journeyman

Posts: 27
From:
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 09-14-2002 01:55 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for oldmustangjunkie   Click Here to Email oldmustangjunkie     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I got my saw at Sears. I think it was listed as "Tungsten Carbide"

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indyphil
Gearhead

Posts: 877
From: Lafayette, IN, USA
Registered: Jul 2002

posted 09-14-2002 03:49 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for indyphil   Click Here to Email indyphil     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Found a blade at sears. Its says tungsten carbide. I was expecting something with teeth but this has some kind of abrasive on it. I will report how it works later. Im too tired to try it now.

If anyone with a parts store is watching...
A special tool for this job would be worth about 30-40 dollars easily. Something like that press but a bit stronger than a 1/2 inch threaded rod, with a pad so you dont mess up the inner fender (I used the flat half of the old rear shackle as a peice of scrap) It would have saved me time and money compared to all the hell I am still going through.

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Hemikiller
Gearhead

Posts: 395
From: Clinton, CT
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 09-14-2002 04:38 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hemikiller   Click Here to Email Hemikiller     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Last set of springs I did, I used an air hammer to rattle them loose from the rust and drive them out. You may be able to use the press you made, if you heat the bolt with a oxy/acetylene torch. Propane is NOT hot enough, not sure abour MAPP gas though.

Al else fails, cut the rest of the leaf from the eye, and cut the eye in half and peel it off. Then you can get to the bushing and bolt. It takes awhile, but will get the springs out. A 4 1/2" right angle grinder works great for this....

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indyphil
Gearhead

Posts: 877
From: Lafayette, IN, USA
Registered: Jul 2002

posted 09-16-2002 08:35 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for indyphil   Click Here to Email indyphil     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The tungsten blade on the sawzall got it off. Hurrah.
I will be cleaning and prepping the wheel-well before repainting. Then the new spring goes on and its over to the other side of the car for a repeat performance.
Thanks for the help, I think I have the technique down now. My next post will be how the new springs ride I hope

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 5739
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 09-16-2002 08:53 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Had them done on my 65. Tech at a gas station told me he could do the job in no more than an hour, bring new bolts, and I buy breakfast if he beats the time! I bought! He used the air chisel routine, shook them loose and worked them out. Actually, one bolt was usable but we put in two new ones-- mid eye springs.

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indyphil
Gearhead

Posts: 877
From: Lafayette, IN, USA
Registered: Jul 2002

posted 09-27-2002 07:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for indyphil   Click Here to Email indyphil     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
UPDATE

The jobs done now and the car is running.

I did the following:
New 4-1/2 springs - mustangsplus
New shocks (cheap gas shocks) - mustangsplus
Polybushed HD shackles - mustangsplus
new hardware
cleaned and painted wheel wells
new gas sender unit - NPD
new stainless fuel pipe tank-to-pump - NPD
cleaned and painted brake drums

Phew. It rides great on the new springs. Feels like it "hooks" better too no more sagging rear end , and now I can see how much gas I have!!
Both parts vendors shipped on time, and all the parts fitted nicely.

I was going to get a new exhaust system next, but I have found a brake problem. I may need to postpone the performance upgrades! I love it when everything goes to plan (except for the *%@#[email protected] spring eye bolts)

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'68 coupe 289 2V
CAT engine performance engineer

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