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  Re-sealing the cowl panel vents-What to use?

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Author Topic:   Re-sealing the cowl panel vents-What to use?
Scott D
Journeyman

Posts: 30
From: Georgia
Registered: Sep 2002

posted 09-03-2002 01:10 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Scott D   Click Here to Email Scott D     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have the week off, so tonight I've been down in the garage working on the '67 hardtop I'm rebuilding.

About a week ago, I did the "water test" on the cowl panel. The results were not good...the driver's side leaked pretty bad.

I got the heater and the driver's side vent assembly out tonight and was actually happy with what I saw.

There were no rusty holes, but it lookes like all of the sealer on the cowl seams was falling apart...especially on the driver's side.

I have no intention of cutting the top of the cowl panel off. I think I can get up under the dash, wire brush all the old sealer & surface rust off, repaint and re-seal it.

I was just wondering if anyone else had encountered the same situation, and what kind of sealer would be best to fix those leaky seams?

Scott

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Calcat
Journeyman

Posts: 75
From: Los Angeles, CA
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 09-03-2002 02:47 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Calcat   Click Here to Email Calcat     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Scott - the problem I see with your approach is that it is a temporary fix. If you have surface rust on the bottom side of the cowl, imagine what is happening on top. The rust works from the top of the cowl panel to the bottom.

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Scott D
Journeyman

Posts: 30
From: Georgia
Registered: Sep 2002

posted 09-03-2002 07:39 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Scott D   Click Here to Email Scott D     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
All vintage mustangs have a little surface rust up under the dash like that. Ford didn't paint under there.

The car is "rust-free," so to speak. It's been in indoor storage for the past 22 years.

Scott

[This message has been edited by Scott D (edited 09-03-2002).]

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 6677
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 09-03-2002 07:48 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
lso, wash them in soap and water before using

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 6677
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 09-03-2002 07:49 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Had more there but lost message. Oh well!

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John Z
Gearhead

Posts: 390
From: Morgantown, WV
Registered: Jul 99

posted 09-03-2002 08:53 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for John Z   Click Here to Email John Z     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
This is what was done to my car before I got it, http://www.stephanies-mustang.com/cowl2.htm
It's a compromise between doing nothing and a complete cowl cap removal.

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 6677
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 09-03-2002 09:29 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Stehanie's repair was close to what my lost post said. The exception I take is using the silicone sh*t! And it's just that!
Use of an epoxy to glue the top hats in will result in a waterproof, durable repair. The Por 15 co. sells a kit (make your own) that involves using fiberglass cloth and gluing it down and painting it with Por 15. Metal is better but it will work, I guess. Painting the cowl like she did and getting the rusty top hats out should last for a long time...IF YOU DON'T USE SILICONE! If you have SMALL holes in cowl area, they can be repaired with epoxy and fiberglass cloth under the dash not in the cowl as epoxy will not stick to galvanized metal. Big holes, you need to go the full route. If you have to park out in rain, you can get some pieces at a sign shop that will cover cowl vents. Those cowl covers that attach are bad as they leave a tell tale mark in the paint.

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John Z
Gearhead

Posts: 390
From: Morgantown, WV
Registered: Jul 99

posted 09-03-2002 01:55 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for John Z   Click Here to Email John Z     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mellowyellow:
Stehanie's repair was close to what my lost post said. The exception I take is using the silicone sh*t! And it's just that!
Use of an epoxy to glue the top hats in will result in a waterproof, durable repair. The Por 15 co. sells a kit (make your own) that involves using fiberglass cloth and gluing it down and painting it with Por 15. Metal is better but it will work, I guess. Painting the cowl like she did and getting the rusty top hats out should last for a long time...IF YOU DON'T USE SILICONE! If you have SMALL holes in cowl area, they can be repaired with epoxy and fiberglass cloth under the dash not in the cowl as epoxy will not stick to galvanized metal. Big holes, you need to go the full route. If you have to park out in rain, you can get some pieces at a sign shop that will cover cowl vents. Those cowl covers that attach are bad as they leave a tell tale mark in the paint.

Gosh Mello - I'm feeling a little down now.
How about "I wouldn't use silicone, I haven't had good experience with it and would not recommend it to others. I would prefer an epoxy product, such as the material sold by POR - 15."
Remember, we are living in a kinder and gentlier world.

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 6677
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 09-03-2002 03:56 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
How 'bout silicone sux. LOL! And it does, for that application.

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Scott D
Journeyman

Posts: 30
From: Georgia
Registered: Sep 2002

posted 09-03-2002 04:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Scott D   Click Here to Email Scott D     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I went by Melvin's Classic Ford parts this morning and discussed my situation with him.

He said pretty much the same thing...he suggested an epoxy-based sealant. Expensive stuff, but it'll work right the first time.

After Melvin explained how the cowl panel is designed/assembled, I suspect there is one small rust hole on the driver's side, but I haven't found it yet.

I still think I'll be able to fix it without cutting the top off. I don't even want to think about doing that.

Scott

[This message has been edited by Scott D (edited 09-03-2002).]

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