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Author
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Topic: solenoid troubles
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Calcat
Journeyman Posts: 75
From: Los Angeles, CA
Registered: Feb 2002
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posted 08-26-2002 03:00 AM
   
Installed a ministarter today. Instructions called for starter cable to be moved to pos cable side of solenoid. A separate wire runs from the other terminal to a solenoid on the starter. Hooked it up and it worked fine for about 5 seconds, then dead. Jumped the solenoid terminals and the starter will turn fine, so I guess the solenoid has gone south.
I am running both the electric choke and the power source for my Petronix from the I side of the solenoid. I'm thinking with this new setup it is too much of a draw for the solenoid and burned it out. Suggestions are welcome.
BTW I did order a Painless cirkit boss today so I won't have to draw from the solenoid, if that indeed is the problem. TIA
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 42139
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 08-26-2002 07:48 PM
That shouldn't be it. Does the new solenoid on the mini-starter use a trigger wire and the positive lug? Can't the positive lug just go to the new solenoid?------------------
All Fords since 1977!
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Calcat
Journeyman Posts: 75
From: Los Angeles, CA
Registered: Feb 2002
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posted 08-27-2002 02:59 AM
Steve - Yes it uses a trigger wire from the lug on the relay where the starter cable used to be to the starter solenoid. this has a jumper on it. The starter cable is now on the same terminal on the relay as the positive battery cable.
Anyone know how many amps a ministarter pulls? Could the relay (which was new)not handle he amps? Do they make a HD relay? Ay other thoughts?
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bifs66
Gearhead Posts: 240
From: Maryland
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 08-27-2002 04:47 PM
I have the same setup on the 342' stroker in the Fastback. In my case, I'm using the hi-torque mini-starter from Ford Motorsports. Their instructions also suggest using the original solenoid in combination with the new starter/solenoid. I believe that mine is hooked up the same way that you described. I took special care in running the heavy starter cable from the solenoid post (now the same post as the + battery cable) to the starter as it now always carries a full 12V. The small gauge trigger wire runs from the opposite side heavy post (old solenoid) down to a blade terminal on the mini-starter. This worked fine for about a week until the brand new (high $$$) repro old-style solenoid went south (like yours did). I replaced it with a $15 Accel unit that looked just like it. Everything has worked well since then. Just a word of caution... I believe that the "I" terminal on the solenoid carries a full 12V ONLY during engine cranking. After the engine starts, the solenoid stops delivering 12 V to the "I" terminal. Reduced voltage will be available at the "I" terminal while the engine is running, but it is being fed by the ignition circuit/ignition switch. Of course, this is if you still have the PINK resistance wire in the system. Typically, electric chokes and after market ignitions require a full 12V to operate properly.------------------
Bernie Frank
66 Fastback restomod project
85 GT (preserved)
82 GT (original)
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Hell_Fish
Gearhead Posts: 860
From: Austin, TX.
Registered: May 2002
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posted 08-27-2002 04:58 PM
Auto Zone carries a heavy duty solenoid. Darn thing melted a starter switch I was using(one of those that you clip to the solenoid to start the car from the engine bay). It can hold a current. It is red though, but you could paint it black if you wanted an original look.------------------
Dustin C
[IMG]http://pages.moparpages.com/duster/sigs/hell_fish.gif[/IMG]
56 F-100
Mech. for wifes 69 Mustang coupe
65 Plymouth Barracuda
70 Dodge Swinger
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