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Author Topic:   solenoid troubles

Posts: 75
From: Los Angeles, CA
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 08-26-2002 03:00 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Calcat   Click Here to Email Calcat     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Installed a ministarter today. Instructions called for starter cable to be moved to pos cable side of solenoid. A separate wire runs from the other terminal to a solenoid on the starter. Hooked it up and it worked fine for about 5 seconds, then dead. Jumped the solenoid terminals and the starter will turn fine, so I guess the solenoid has gone south.
I am running both the electric choke and the power source for my Petronix from the I side of the solenoid. I'm thinking with this new setup it is too much of a draw for the solenoid and burned it out. Suggestions are welcome.
BTW I did order a Painless cirkit boss today so I won't have to draw from the solenoid, if that indeed is the problem. TIA

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Posts: 42139
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 08-26-2002 07:48 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
That shouldn't be it. Does the new solenoid on the mini-starter use a trigger wire and the positive lug? Can't the positive lug just go to the new solenoid?

All Fords since 1977!

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Posts: 75
From: Los Angeles, CA
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 08-27-2002 02:59 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Calcat   Click Here to Email Calcat     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Steve - Yes it uses a trigger wire from the lug on the relay where the starter cable used to be to the starter solenoid. this has a jumper on it. The starter cable is now on the same terminal on the relay as the positive battery cable.
Anyone know how many amps a ministarter pulls? Could the relay (which was new)not handle he amps? Do they make a HD relay? Ay other thoughts?

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Posts: 240
From: Maryland
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 08-27-2002 04:47 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for bifs66   Click Here to Email bifs66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have the same setup on the 342' stroker in the Fastback. In my case, I'm using the hi-torque mini-starter from Ford Motorsports. Their instructions also suggest using the original solenoid in combination with the new starter/solenoid. I believe that mine is hooked up the same way that you described. I took special care in running the heavy starter cable from the solenoid post (now the same post as the + battery cable) to the starter as it now always carries a full 12V. The small gauge trigger wire runs from the opposite side heavy post (old solenoid) down to a blade terminal on the mini-starter. This worked fine for about a week until the brand new (high $$$) repro old-style solenoid went south (like yours did). I replaced it with a $15 Accel unit that looked just like it. Everything has worked well since then. Just a word of caution... I believe that the "I" terminal on the solenoid carries a full 12V ONLY during engine cranking. After the engine starts, the solenoid stops delivering 12 V to the "I" terminal. Reduced voltage will be available at the "I" terminal while the engine is running, but it is being fed by the ignition circuit/ignition switch. Of course, this is if you still have the PINK resistance wire in the system. Typically, electric chokes and after market ignitions require a full 12V to operate properly.

Bernie Frank
66 Fastback restomod project
85 GT (preserved)
82 GT (original)

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Posts: 860
From: Austin, TX.
Registered: May 2002

posted 08-27-2002 04:58 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hell_Fish   Click Here to Email Hell_Fish     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Auto Zone carries a heavy duty solenoid. Darn thing melted a starter switch I was using(one of those that you clip to the solenoid to start the car from the engine bay). It can hold a current. It is red though, but you could paint it black if you wanted an original look.

Dustin C
56 F-100
Mech. for wifes 69 Mustang coupe
65 Plymouth Barracuda
70 Dodge Swinger

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