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  Startup Motor been sitting 25 years

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Author Topic:   Startup Motor been sitting 25 years
sprcoop
Gearhead

Posts: 225
From: Tucson, AZ usa
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 08-08-2002 12:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sprcoop   Click Here to Email sprcoop     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
What would the procedure be for starting a motor (289) that has been sitting for 25 years that you didn't want to tear all the way down?

Change the oil, oil cylinders via spark plug holes, turn by hand a few times, crank it with the starter 10 times and go for it?

Personally I would pull the motor and go through it but this question was asked of me and I wasn't sure. It's a 4V 289 in a 66' GT. Any suggestions appreciated.

Jerry

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66' Coupe
Wide Ratio Toploader
2V 302 (icky!)
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ewokeric
Gearhead

Posts: 174
From: woodbridge, va united states
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 08-08-2002 06:04 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ewokeric   Click Here to Email ewokeric     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
i would think you would want to go thru the motor but what do you have to lose. I bought mine and it had been sitting for 11 years and basically did the same thing you did and it is running fine now and no seal leaks YET. I would guess that the main oil seals are most likely bad though. Give it a shot

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6602
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 08-08-2002 07:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Remove the distributor and prime the oil pump too! Good luck, I'd tear it down first.

SteveW

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senzstang
Gearhead

Posts: 122
From: perry, oh, usa
Registered: May 2002

posted 08-09-2002 07:45 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for senzstang   Click Here to Email senzstang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I would think at a minimum you would have to do the above and clean up the carb. Make sure you do pull the distributor and prime the motor. Keep us posted. It would be cool if this was a case where we are all proved wrong and the thing fires up and runs.

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thedave66
Gearhead

Posts: 244
From: mountain home, idaho
Registered: Sep 2001

posted 08-09-2002 08:39 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for thedave66   Click Here to Email thedave66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
well it is a ford

dave

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sprcoop
Gearhead

Posts: 225
From: Tucson, AZ usa
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 08-09-2002 08:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sprcoop   Click Here to Email sprcoop     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
It all sounds good except... can you elaborate on "removing dist and priming the oil pump"? I would think 10 or so revolutions via the starter would get that done. Do you physically have to fill the pump to get it started? Thanks.

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 33988
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 08-09-2002 08:38 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
You are best off to pressurize the oiling system before you start to turn the engine over. If you just start turning it over with the starter you are spinning on dry bearings until the pump pulls the oil up. Priming the pump will also get the oil to the rocker arms much sooner.

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All Fords since 1977!

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6602
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 08-09-2002 08:43 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
This is standard procedure even for a rebuild that has all the internal parts coated with moly lube. This old engine of you buddy's will be dry as a bone inside with an empty oil filter too. It'll take up to a minute to get oil into the critical places if you crank it a bit then fire it up. No matter how well it was stored, the only thing between your bearings and the crank journals now is rust. By priming the oil pump you'll at least give it a fighting chance, filling the oil filter and getting some oil into the bearings.

Pull the distributor, use a deep socket the size of the oil pump drive shaft (it drives off the bottom of your distributor's gear) and turn the pump's driveshaft CCW until it's very hard to turn or until you see oil pressure on your gauge. Tape the socket to a long extension and turn it with a ratchet. Then reinstall the distributor in the same location, and cross your fingers.

SteveW

[This message has been edited by steve'66 (edited 08-09-2002).]

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