Author
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Topic: vacuum in my head
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indyphil Gearhead Posts: 2354 From: Senoia, G.A. USA Registered: Jul 2002
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posted 08-02-2002 08:14 AM
Im looking for opinions and so far you guys have been awesome. I went to the library last night and looked through the mitchell manual for my 289 2V engine for my '68 coupe. I had been wondering what the thermal switch did on the thermostat outlet. Now i know how it all works. What I want to know is... Do you guys think its smart to keep the whole dual diaphram system stock for originality sake (maybe you can tell me where i can find FoMoCo hoses with the stripes on them) or should I ditch originality and go with simplicity using a shiney new single hose vacuum advance unit that i bought yesterday??? Most cars dont have the overheat/advance protection system (called the distributor vacuum control valve) and they do fine. I would like to remove the thermal valve and plug it up based on the fact that it looks butt ugly. Pep Boys (i hate to use them for anything) has a chrome thermostat housing with O ring seals for 20 bucks it has no valve hole at all.------------------ '68 coupe 289 2V CAT engine performance engineer
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DidgeyTrucker Gearhead Posts: 1144 From: Greenbrier, TN USA Registered: Oct 99
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posted 08-04-2002 02:14 PM
If I only need something once, I'll borrow it. But if I think I'll ever use it twice, I'll BUY it. Buy some books when you can. Drop hints for Christmas or a birthday!Now, on the vacuum advance question - go for it. If you don't care about original appearance, the single ported vacuum advance system works fine. Hey, Phil, why not come down to Nashville, TN September 21 for the Music City Mustang Club's All Ford Show? We always have a good time and there will be a few M&M'ers there. Tracy
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indyphil Gearhead Posts: 2354 From: Senoia, G.A. USA Registered: Jul 2002
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posted 08-05-2002 08:11 AM
Ok well I ditched the dual diaphram, and have connected up the shiney new single port system. I will remove my thermally operated vacuum valve soon and probably replace the water neck (t-stat housing) with a chrome O ring type. I am going to keep all the original style stuff in a box and whenever I want to sell the car (hopefully never because I love it) I can show them the original parts. The engine bay is already looking neater and Im getting bummed out because it didnt take enough "before" photographs! Tracy, Music city is about 8 hours drive from Lafayette, I would have to buy the wife a lot of flowers and a lot of dinners out to drag her that far in a vintage car. Doesnt mean that i dont want to be there though. I need new rear springs and a fuel sender unit before taking on a long ride. Not sure If thatll happen before Sept. Maybe next year...
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V8 Thumper Gearhead Posts: 4376 From: Arizona Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 08-05-2002 08:32 AM
As long as it's reversable, and the mod is for simplicity/tune-ability/reliability, I say do it. You can always put it back
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mellowyellow Gearhead Posts: 6677 From: So. Fl. Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 08-05-2002 03:13 PM
On my ex 68 cv,lost the dist and opted for the 67 style and NO vacumn hoses. Have seen several 68 V-8 cars in MMonthly that had the 67 style. I wonder if that dist is for AC cars? BTW--chrome thermo housings are prone to leaking.
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indyphil Gearhead Posts: 2354 From: Senoia, G.A. USA Registered: Jul 2002
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posted 08-05-2002 03:17 PM
Mellowyellow, You're not the first person that has told me that chrome t-stat housings leak, I am hoping that the O ring seal in place of the gasket will be better but perhaps you have experience otherwise? I have a new cast iron housing with a plug in the top where the temp probe goes that I could use. Maybe I should start a new post on the thermostat housings. Let me search the archives first. Thanks for the warning------------------ '68 coupe 289 2V CAT engine performance engineer
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69 Sportsroof Gearhead Posts: 1863 From: Valley, Alabama, USA Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 08-05-2002 04:42 PM
In my experience, the chrome waterneck leaks occur at the hose connection more so than the manifold connection. The chrome finish is too slick to allow the hose clamp to hold in the water pressure. You can knock the gloss off of it with some fine grit sandpaper before installing it and that will help. Two clamps help as well.
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senzstang Gearhead Posts: 248 From: perry, oh, usa Registered: May 2002
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posted 08-05-2002 04:54 PM
I used the chrome neck with the o-ring and had no trouble at all. Maybe I just got lucky. All I did was bolt it on and tighten the hoses - no additional prep. I guess I am stupid and lucky!
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 42859 From: Saco, Maine Registered: May 99
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posted 08-05-2002 07:47 PM
I had a friend that was determined to use a chrome thermostat housing on his brand x. He must have tried ten of them before he gave up. ------------------ Ford! Because I know the difference!
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V8 Thumper Gearhead Posts: 4376 From: Arizona Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 08-05-2002 08:23 PM
Yup, I've tried chrome t-stat housings too... as previously mentioned, either the gaskets don't seal because the plating has no adhesion quality whatsoever, or electolysis eats up the aluminum They do look cool, but I'll stick to my old cast iron housing and have one less potential 'weak link'
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