Yesterday he came across a killer deal. Fresh rebuilt world class T-5 with a B&M Ripper shifter for $400. He bought it of course.

I will most likely be doing most of the work to install the trans.

A couple of questions.

1. What companies make a good conversion to use the cable operated style clutch? How much do these kit's cost?

2. What pressure plate and flywheel do we need?

3. Any other gotcha's? Crossmember? Driveshaft? Header interference?

Thanks,

Buy a transmission mount for any '65-73 Mustang, itll be $10 tops at Auto Zone or wherever

The driveshaft is an entirely custom thing, different to each car -- basically oyu need the T-5 yoke grafted onto your '66 driveshaft ~~~ thats what I had to do for my '65 (if your bros '66 has been upgraded to an 8" or something, it might be possible to take a Fox Mustang driveshaft and bolt it right up, not sure though )

Mustangs Plus sells a Ron Morris Performance as well as a Bruce Coulter (spelling?) Performance cable clutch conversion kits as well

Best of luck!!!! That is a good deal on the tranny

The 3/4 speed yokes will work, BUT, you have to weld a bead on the backside of the old style yoke, and change the rear seal of the T5 with the seal from an old 3/4 speed or it will leak fluid cuz the yoke is made for a externally ventilated tranny with thick gear oil, and the T5 with ATF yoke is different, because it is ventilated different. I learned this from experience. Just buy a kit that comes with the yoke and crossmember and you shouldn't need anything else besides the cable, and maybe the driveshaft shortened.

Edit: Oh yeah, use a T5 clutch too. Some kits come with a spacer, but you won't need it if you use the T5 bellhousing and the RMP cable.

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Hoofbeats are louder than Heartbeats!
68 Coupe, now with a 351W and 5speed.
Now officially dubbed "THE PIT"
New addition: 63 Fairlane 500!!

The fox mustang driveshaft is too short, I was lucky, the driveshaft from the c-4 and 8 inch rear was the correct length after changing to the T-5 yoke. I did have to shorten it after the 9 inch rear went in.
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Stuart MCA #48902
M&M #1091
67 stang 5 speed, 351W,
Edelbrock Performer RPM package
Currie 9 Inch
91 f-150 xlt
98 explorer xlt sohc v-6

I hadn't thought about using an original Z-bar. Guess I'll do a cost comparison. We would have to buy the Z-bar, clutch rod, etc. Everything except the pedal. As I said the original pedal is still in the car, but it has an early 70's C-4. All the assorted parts to use a manual trans are missing.

Later,

quote:

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Originally posted by Dave_C:
.

1. What companies make a good conversion to use the cable operated style clutch? How much do these kit's cost?

2. What pressure plate and flywheel do we need?

3. Any other gotcha's? Crossmember? Driveshaft? Header interference?

Thanks,

David Cole

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1. Since you have z-bar clutch linkage, I'd just refirb it and make sure its in good alignment. Save yourself the cost of the cable clutch.

2. Selection of flywheel and clutch kit depend on whether you stick with z-bar linkage, and original bell housing or opt for late model bell housing and cable clutch. Your existing clutch will do or you may wish to upgrade it to the Hi-Po 10.5" which is a bolt in. Going to something else is going to add to the cost.

3. The easiest conversion is to use California Pony Cars adapters. There is an adapter plate that fits on the back of the bell housing and a custom crossmember.

Remove the bell housing fit the plate to it.

Remove the clutch and pressure plate and replace the pilot bearing with a late model pilot bearing (needle bearing). The T5 needs this else the input shaft will cause problems.

Fit the adapter to the bell housing. This will require drilling one hole in the bell housing for one bolt. I use a serrated flange nut on the inside side of the bell housing in addition to the new threaded hole. I use red threadlocker on this nut to ensure it stays put. Once the bell housing is modified it can be reinstalled. Before reinstalling prop the bell housing up on a couple of 2x4's face down and then install tranny in the bell with tail housing standing straight up. Check all your fasteners for proper fit and make sure none are too short or too long. You want to catch as many threads in the adapter plate without bottoming out. Don't hesitate to buy new bolts for mounting the tranny if the ones you have don't fit exactly (or exactly with a washer and lock washer on them).

Lube the input neck of the tranny with wheel bearing grease - thin layer with no high spots. Slide the throwout bearing on the input neck and be sure its smooth going in/out. Take the throwout bearing off and wipe grease from the bearing. Do not wipe it from the tranny neck unless the bearing caused it to pile up, then only remove the excess. You want enough grease for the bearing to slide and not enough so it will drop off the neck or get into the clutch - a thin layer is what is needed not a goopy layer. Install the rear transmission mount and new crossmember on the transmission tailshaft. Make sure the bump on the transmission mount faces aft. If the transmission mount has round holes, throw it away and get the newer type with slotted holes. The one with round bolt holes will not work. The one with slotted holes will.

Install the bell housing. Install guide pins or a couple of bolts with the heads cut off in the lower adapter plate tranny mounting bolt holes. Raise the tranny with a tranny jack and slide it up on the guide pins. Go through the throwout bearing, through the clutch and engage the pilot bearing. Make sure the tranny goes in without binding and seats against the bell housing. Do not use the bolts to pull the tranny into place. You can put them in finger tight and wiggle the tranny a bit to move it forward then tighten again finger tight, etc. DO NOT use a wrench to beef it in there! The result will be a destroyed needle bearing, clutch plate or whatever.

Install the driveshaft using a new yoke. Using the old yoke will bring on transmission leaks as the T5 uses Dextron III/Mercon auto tranny fluid and not tranny grease. Using anything other than Dextron III/Mercon fluid will result in tranny damage. The driveshaft will likely fit but be too close to the tail shaft. Measure how much clearance you have between the seal on the tailshaft and the point nearest the yoke fingers (only the closely finished machined part the seal rides on counts). The measurement should be 7/8". If not, check your installation and if everything is copesetic except the driveshaft distance, take the driveshaft to a drive train specialist and have it shortened whatever distance is needed. Be sure to have it rebalanced after shortening (how much? I paid $92 for shortening, balancing and new u-joints). Install your shortened driveshaft and then take a test drive.

You can do lots more while you're doing this job, replace flywheel, clutch and pressure plate, etc. but this is all you really have to do if your 3 speed clutch is working and is adjusted satisfactorily.

quote:

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Originally posted by 68stang351:
Radride, what rpms are you running at 70mph with the 4.11's and the T5?
I've got a T5 in mine too, and I'm thinking about steeper gears.

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I can tell you that with 3.89 and a T-5 and 225-60-15 tires I run about 2200 rpm @ 70 mph