So I got to thinking... Since my cam is unusable, should I step it up a notch and get the block drilled for a roller cam? I have 2V heads, so is there any point to doing so? Should I step it up another notch and port the heads? I'd like to just have a bit more oomph without crushing fuel economy, and roller lifters seem like a good step. I get the impression, though, that the cam is limited by the shorter height of the lifter bores anyway. Is that a valid concern?

Also, my timing chain and camshaft cog need replacement. Should I also replace the crankshaft cog? ANd what's the deal with those chainless setups with a mess of cogs driving the cam? What are they for?

Roller cams are nice, but the jury is still out whether the small added power is worth the much greater cost.

You should always change the timing set as a complete set. All new parts is the best route.

Gear drives aren't worth it. They are noisy {some people like that} and they actually cause a small power loss.

What's the difference between hydraulic and solid roller cams?

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Originally posted by tafinucane:
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What's the difference between hydraulic and solid roller cams?

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If you are just looking for alittel more oomph, without ruining you're gas mileage, (which clevelands arent good at anyways) why mess with around with all the added expense of a roller cam? Just put a hotter than stock hydraulic flat tappet cam in it and forget it.

To put a solid roller in the car and to do it correctly, will cost you over $1000 easily. As for the hydraulic roller cams, all they make are retro fit kits, and once again, they are not cheap (but not as expensive as a solid roller) and in my opinion, not worth the hassle.