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Author Topic:   Rod bearing replacement questions
68stang351
Gearhead

Posts: 267
From: Savoy TX, USA
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 07-11-2002 06:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68stang351   Click Here to Email 68stang351     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Well, I'm wondering if I can do this myself. I've never done anything like this before. I don't know if I should attempt it or have professionals do it. I just don't have the money.
I do know a couple of people that build race motors that would cut a real good deal, but the downside is no warranty (same as if I did it), and I don't feel like doing this again.
What exactly is entailed in this, after I get the motor out? If I find which one it is, could I just replace that one and torque the bolts back on correctly just by pulling the oil pan?
Any advice would be appreciated.

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Hoofbeats are louder than Heartbeats!
68 Coupe, now with a 351W and 5speed.
Now officially dubbed "THE PIT"

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 33988
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 07-11-2002 08:18 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
It depends. Usually, you can't get by with just changing the rod bearing because the bearing snags and turns within the connecting rod bore, scoring the rod bore. You have to take it apart and see the extent of the damage. If it's saveable and the rod journal isn't too scored, you can then give it a light polish with a strip of emery cloth {after stuffing a small rag in the journal oil hole}, then use Plastigauge to check the clearance with the new bearing to see if you have acceptable oil clearance.

I've done a ton of these, and I'd say you stand about a 50/50 chance of being able to save the crank. Actually, maybe 40/60 against your favor.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1, '72 Mustang Sprint, '94 F-150
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 33988
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 07-11-2002 08:23 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 68stang351:
What exactly is entailed in this, after I get the motor out?

Actually, the repair I described above is usually done with the engine left in the car. You pull the pan and attack from below.

This type of repair is done pretty often with stock engines, {especially at gm dealerships... } but a high performance use {which I assume yours is} is a lot more demanding on rod bearings.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1, '72 Mustang Sprint, '94 F-150
Pics

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V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 3529
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 07-11-2002 10:51 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I agree with Steve's input. You'll need a harmonic balancer puller and a torque wrench, but that's about all the special tools you'd need. With four sturdy jackstands, get that car as high up as you can, give yourself plenty of working space. Borrow a mechanic's creeper too. Get comfortable, you don't want to make a 'fatigue' mistake while in there

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V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 3529
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 07-11-2002 10:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
Actually, maybe 40/60 against your favor.



Not to piss gasoline on the fire, but Steve's right

[This message has been edited by V8 Thumper (edited 07-11-2002).]

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Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 19751
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 07-12-2002 08:29 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have never seen a SBF crank that is salvageable "as is", after spinning a bearing. It will need to be ground or replaced. Sorry again for more bad news.

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator/ non 65-66 Mustang owner sensitivity co-ordinator

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 33988
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 07-12-2002 05:31 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by V8 Thumper:
I agree with Steve's input. You'll need a harmonic balancer puller and a torque wrench, but that's about all the special tools you'd need.

You can even leave the balancer on.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1, '72 Mustang Sprint, '94 F-150
Pics

MCA Member # 47773

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V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 3529
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 07-12-2002 06:36 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
You can even leave the balancer on.




(dua)that's right. My brain must have been on vacation for that post

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