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Author
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Topic: breaking in my 351W
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68stang351
Gearhead Posts: 267
From: Savoy TX, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 06-29-2002 01:49 AM
   
Is there a certain procedure for breaking the motor in or do I just get in and go?
Someone told me about running it at 2K rpm's for like 20 mins with it sittin still. I don't like this guy and I question what he says. Is he right? Or do I just start it up and go for a drive? I really need your help!!
BTW its freshly rebuilt, and been sitting about 10 months but has 0 miles. ------------------
Hoofbeats are louder than Heartbeats!
68 Coupe, now with a 351W and 5speed.
Now officially dubbed "THE PIT" [This message has been edited by 68stang351 (edited 06-29-2002).]
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V8 Thumper
Gearhead Posts: 3529
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 06-29-2002 09:54 AM
quote:
Originally posted by 68stang351:
Someone told me about running it at 2K rpm's for like 20 mins with it sittin still. I don't like this guy and I question what he says. Is he right?
YES!!! This 'pal' may not be high up on your list, but he's 100% correct on this one. This procedure is necessary for camshaft break-in, assuming you have a flat tappet (non-roller) cam. See, the only lubrication the cam lobes themselves get is from oil 'slung' off of the crankshaft. Contact the cam manufacturer for specific break-in procedures, they usually recommend 2500+ rpm for upwards of 30 minutes. It is also enormously important that you prime the oiling system prior to first start-up. You can use an old distributor with the cam gear ground off as a primer (primers are also available: Summit, Jeg's, etc.) , and use a drill motor to spin the shaft (which in turn spins the oil pump). You'll hear/feel the pump 'load up' when it gets prime, then rotate the motor by hand 1/4 turn at a time for a few revolutions (while still spinning the oil pump with the drill). I like to keep the valve covers off to do this, verifying that oil is in fact reaching the valvetrain via the pushrods. Ok, so this may be an old-timer's method (ring material is different these days), but I use 30W Non-Detergent motor oil for the inital break-in. Some people say that it's no longer necessary (using ND oil), but it couldn't hurt. The idea is to help the piston rings seat quickly and efficently. Example: Childs and Albert's Assembly Oil, widely used by the pros as an assembly lubricant, is essentially 30W ND motor oil filtered to 2 microns.
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68stang351
Gearhead Posts: 267
From: Savoy TX, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 06-29-2002 10:49 AM
Its a roller cam, so does this still apply?------------------
Hoofbeats are louder than Heartbeats!
68 Coupe, now with a 351W and 5speed.
Now officially dubbed "THE PIT"
IP: Logged |
66351stang
Gearhead Posts: 677
From: sayville,newyork
Registered: Jul 2000
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posted 06-30-2002 12:05 AM
so people do and some don't, i have built motors and droppd tem in the car on a friday night and raced saturday afternoon, never had a problem ......------------------
ponycar66,have you flown in a ford latley???????
66-COUPE W/351SVO
glad i had a v-8 !!!!!!
84.5 gt350-
have a great day!!!!!!!!
new hobbie, kart racing!!!!
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richard bohm
Gearhead Posts: 373
From: tucson,az-luray,va
Registered: May 2001
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posted 06-30-2002 04:01 AM
the break in procedure for my comp cams retro fit roller cam says to run the engine at 1500 rpm(min) for 20 min. i like to run them at 2000-2500 for 20 min. also dont use a synthetic oil for break in as the rings wont seat properly. after the cam break in is done, change the oil, and then change it again at 500 miles. then observe normal oil change intervals. at the first oil change after 500 miles you can change to a synthetic oil.
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