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Author Topic:   Bolt-on subframe connectors?
65coupei6
Gearhead

Posts: 401
From: S.F., CA
Registered: May 2000

posted 06-07-2002 12:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 65coupei6     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Has anyone used these before? Any install tips, tricks, complaints, praises? I know the weld on is better but I will probably get them welded on in the future.

Thanks!

------------------
Marco S.
[email protected]
Ford Inline Performance
MustangIndex-The Classic Mustang Search Engine & Web Directory

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Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 18280
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 06-07-2002 01:26 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Both C&E and the S&W products work well and install easy. Stay away from the round tubular type.

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator/ non 65-66 Mustang owner sensitivity co-ordinator

NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00, '01, & '02
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Part time secret agent license #0089
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 5469
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 06-07-2002 02:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Can you elaborate on that/

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n2oMike
Gearhead

Posts: 1316
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 06-07-2002 02:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for n2oMike     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hey, I've got those round tubular type...

They were installed back when the mustang was set up to go around turns. They seemed to work just fine. The round tubing was supposed to act as some sort of 'torsion bar' to help keep the chassis from twisting. They are made by Global West.

I know... the type would pass through the floor and be welded their entire length would be ideal... but (compared to the other add-on connectors) these seem just fine).

As for comparing 'bolt-in' subframe connectors to the weld-in type... They work GREAT, as long as they are installed using a welder.

Good Luck!

------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220

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Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 18280
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 06-07-2002 03:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
10-4 on the welder. I always weld the bolt in ones after we bolt them in. I never found a set, (GLobal west included) of round bars that would keep a Mustang square. When you are done, after a season of racing the care WILL twist. Just try lifting your car up on one corner (not at mid engine) way in the back or way in the front and see if it will get 3 of four wheels off the ground equaly. Mine does and so do any of the cars that we have done with square bar connectors. Every set of GW bar cars tweaks. Easy way to tell is the measure the gap between the floor and th e GW bars side to side.

------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator/ non 65-66 Mustang owner sensitivity co-ordinator

NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00, '01, & '02
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Part time secret agent license #0089
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl

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65coupei6
Gearhead

Posts: 401
From: S.F., CA
Registered: May 2000

posted 06-07-2002 04:18 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 65coupei6     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
One more question. How about installation?
Front of car on ramps and the rear supported by jack stands under axle? Or is there another way to do it?

------------------
Marco S.
[email protected]
Ford Inline Performance
MustangIndex-The Classic Mustang Search Engine & Web Directory

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n2oMike
Gearhead

Posts: 1316
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 06-07-2002 05:37 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for n2oMike     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 65coupei6:
One more question. How about installation?
Front of car on ramps and the rear supported by jack stands under axle? Or is there another way to do it?


The car should be level with the weight on the wheels... just like it would sit on the road. A drive-on lift is the best. Another way to do it (at home)... is to drive the front end up on a set of ramps, then jack up the back, and set the rear tires on another set of ramps.

p.s. I don't see any set of subframe connectors all by themselves, without the addition of a full roll cage keeping a car from twisting to that extent. Any old mustang, when lifted at one corner, is going to lift that tire up first, before the others come up off the ground. I can't see all three tires coming off the ground the same amount. Whoever can claim that has some SERIOUS chassis stiffness going on!

Good Luck!

------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220

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Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 18280
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 06-07-2002 09:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Cage tied to the frame is absolutly the best method overall.
Ramps front and rear if a drive on rack is not available IS the best method.

------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator/ non 65-66 Mustang owner sensitivity co-ordinator

NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00, '01, & '02
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Part time secret agent license #0089
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl

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