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  alignment after disc brake conversion?

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Author Topic:   alignment after disc brake conversion?
67fastback2+2
Journeyman

Posts: 92
From: Pennsville,New Jersey
Registered: Oct 2001

posted 06-05-2002 09:03 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 67fastback2+2   Click Here to Email 67fastback2+2     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I changed from drum to disc also installed new lower control arms. I intend to take her to a shop for proper alignment but would like to try it myself first. It will be nice to know how close I get! Question is how and where to start, I ran across a site awhile back that had good info. but can't find it Any help would be great! Thanks Pete

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Ralph Rebandt
Gearhead

Posts: 481
From: Farmington Hills, MI
Registered: Feb 2000

posted 06-05-2002 10:30 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ralph Rebandt   Click Here to Email Ralph Rebandt     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Pete, I want to do the same so I will watch the responses. I don't know if you have the tools to adjust the camber, etc, but any 67 shop manual will have the statistics. I would be happy to send an attachment with the stats from a 68 manual if you need them. You could email me @ [email protected]

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Ralph Rebandt
Gearhead

Posts: 481
From: Farmington Hills, MI
Registered: Feb 2000

posted 06-05-2002 10:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ralph Rebandt   Click Here to Email Ralph Rebandt     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
BTW Pete, how much did the conversion cost you, if you don't mind sharing...

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Pierre
Gearhead

Posts: 366
From: France
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 06-06-2002 07:15 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Pierre   Click Here to Email Pierre     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
You may not like my answer, but I would leave this to a Pro

When I had my TCP strut rod installed few weeks ago, I had a long talk with the guy that did my alignement: It is a very complicated operation since Caster-Camber and Toe-in adjustements are interdependent. There is a special sequence to respect. Angles are highly sensitive: 1/8" change of position of strut rods or lower arm and you are way off on angles.
The only thing I did was to approximatly adjust caster by using a thread in a needdle (I wanted caster not too far off since if caster is wrong your steering will act very funny). I will try to explain: There is a hole in the center of the upper and lower ball joint stud. I positionned the thread in the hole of the upper ball joint and let the needdle hang down over the lower ball joint stud. For caster to be correct, the needle needs to point between 1/8"-1/4" off that center toward the rear of the car. For the rest (Camber and toe-in) I did by eye estimation
and off to the shop I went !!!

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Pierre
Gearhead

Posts: 366
From: France
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 06-06-2002 07:22 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Pierre   Click Here to Email Pierre     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Oh !..... This must be done with the car on the ground
BTW: when I got there, caster was not too bad !!!!! I was +1?43 on the right and + 0,75? on the left

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67fastback2+2
Journeyman

Posts: 92
From: Pennsville,New Jersey
Registered: Oct 2001

posted 06-06-2002 06:27 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 67fastback2+2   Click Here to Email 67fastback2+2     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks Ralph I didn't think of that, I have a 67 shop manual. She is in getting exaust right now and my manual is there I'll look when she gets back!! I'm pretty sure the disc brake setup came from a 68 coup my car came with most parts in boxes. I got extra parts from 3 different 67/68's. I paid 1,000 for the car and parts http://67fastback2-2.mustangsandmore.ws
Pierre, I will be trying your method out sounds good to me Thanks Pete

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fastcomet289
Gearhead

Posts: 140
From: ventura ca
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 06-07-2002 07:12 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for fastcomet289   Click Here to Email fastcomet289     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
i had my sister hold a piece of yarn across the middle of my rear tires, while held it acoss the middle of the front tires, you can see the gap in the front tire to the string, so you will know wich way to ajust the wheel, in or out with the tie rod sleeve,
also make sure your wheel is some what in the middle, its not to big a deal to have the wheel perfect seeing as how once you get it to the alignment shop they will fix it anyways

------------------
1970 mach1 351c
1965 comet 289

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cpmaverick
Moderator

Posts: 1568
From: Auburn, AL.
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 06-10-2002 10:11 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for cpmaverick   Click Here to Email cpmaverick     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I'd say, get your toe close and drive it to the shop. You won't get it right anyway, and close enough is just as good as far off when it's on the alignment rack. I wouldn't suspect that the '67 is far from my Maverick, and it is quite easy to align on the machine. I've done quite a few alignments at the Ford dealer I work for. They aren't complicated at all, but without the measuring equipment, nearly impossible.

------------------
-Charlie Ping
1970 Maverick Grabber
[email protected] with AC and overdrive.
http://www.maverickgrabber.com

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Fastback68
Gearhead

Posts: 1746
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99

posted 06-10-2002 12:23 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastback68   Click Here to Email Fastback68     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I wonder how things have really changed. Forty years ago, before computers, I used to help my Dad align our car at home with string and stuff. I don't know how good a job we really did, but when I get a computerised alignment these days, it strikes me that the whole procedure is still as simple as it was - just a lot quicker, and presumably more accurate. But does it need to be THAT accurate? The world got by fine on string for 80 years of motoring ...

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