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Author
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Topic: Another dist. install question.
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68stang351
Gearhead Posts: 267
From: Savoy TX, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 06-02-2002 10:48 AM
   
Ok, I put my distributor in to test fit it, but I can't get it out. So I'm just going to leave it in. I did like someone said and turned the crank until the #1 valve was all the way open (I could feel it with my finger). Now, where the rotor is at should be where I start wiring up #1, then #3, then so on, right? But the rotor is not pointing to where the book says the #1 is on the cap. But if the pistons fire off in the right order, does it matter where it starts on the cap? #1 on the cap is moved over like 2 spaces, but as long as the rest of them are too, and they fire in the right order they should be o.k. shouldn't they? Either help me with that or tell me how to take the **** thing out so I can put it back in with the rotor pointing differently.------------------
Hoofbeats are louder than Heartbeats!
68 Coupe, soon to have 351W and 5speed.
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68stang351
Gearhead Posts: 267
From: Savoy TX, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 06-02-2002 10:50 AM
BTW, its not the same distributor I spoke of the other day, I have since turned it in as a core for one for a 351W, so I have the right one. I also put a bronze gear on it cuz the block is a 94 with a roller cam.------------------
Hoofbeats are louder than Heartbeats!
68 Coupe, soon to have 351W and 5speed.
IP: Logged |
V8 Thumper
Gearhead Posts: 3529
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 06-02-2002 10:58 AM
It makes no difference where you 'clock' #1 on the cap, so that's ok. With a bronze gear, you'll need to remove the dist sooner than later so... spray penetrating lubricant around the base and let it sit, a few hours if necessary. Get it moving some, and keep workin' it, back and forth... it's gotta give up sometime. Did the new distributor just 'drop in', or did it take some 'persuation'?
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68stang351
Gearhead Posts: 267
From: Savoy TX, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 06-02-2002 11:16 AM
It did take some persuasion. It won't turn either. It is for a 69 351W, a brand new distributor, the block is a 94, I was told in my last thread that it would work fine. Also, I thought the bronze gear was the strongest? Thats why I replaced the gear that was on there, so it would work with a roller cam.------------------
Hoofbeats are louder than Heartbeats!
68 Coupe, soon to have 351W and 5speed.
IP: Logged |
sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 1824
From: Beaufort, SC
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 06-02-2002 07:59 PM
As far as the where number one goes, technically it really doesn't matter as stated. But, if you have a vaccum advance on the distributor and go to set the timing and need to turn the distributor clockwise, you might have a problem with the vacuum advance hitting the water outlet on the intake. If that happens, you'll have to pull the distributor and turn the rotor counter clockwise one or two gear slots. I know that's true for 302 and 351M, not sure about 351W.
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Calcat
Journeyman Posts: 75
From: Los Angeles, CA
Registered: Feb 2002
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posted 06-03-2002 02:35 AM
You'll need to pull it anyway. With the #1 valve open you are not at TDC, the #1 valve should be closed.
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68stang351
Gearhead Posts: 267
From: Savoy TX, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 06-04-2002 09:23 PM
Now I can't get the d*mned thing out!! I thought it shoulda fit right. I bought it for a 69 351W, but the block is a 94. I was told it would fit in an earlier thread. Or is it supposed to be that tight? But I can't get it out. Any suggestions?------------------
Hoofbeats are louder than Heartbeats!
68 Coupe, soon to have 351W and 5speed.
IP: Logged |
GypsyR
Journeyman Posts: 43
From: SC
Registered: May 2002
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posted 06-04-2002 11:09 PM
Man you are having a time with that thing. The distributor should pivot side to side easily with the holdown removed. It should also slide on back out, especially since you just put it in. If you didn't lube the oring before you put it in it might be stiff, but it shouldn't be that tough. It will need to come out, both no.one valves should be closed when no.one cylinder is at TDC. Try some penetrating oil and keep working with it. Once you get it out, take a good hard look at the shaft and see if you can tell what's binding up. If it's that tough to remove, it should leave some marks.
Good luck.
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Billgear
Gearhead Posts: 182
From: Concord,CA
Registered: May 2000
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posted 06-04-2002 11:19 PM
I'd like to comment on the bronze gear, it isn't gonna last very long 2000 miles (maybe). If it was me I'd get a steel gear
from Crane cams and have it put on your shaft. ------------------
Regards,
BillGear 1966 Coupe
Balanced 302
AFR Aluminum 165cc heads
Custom FTI Cam 565@284
Weiand Stealth Intake
Hooker Super Comps
T-5 Transmission with 3.55 gears
All the suspension goodies.
www.289mustang.com
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68stang351
Gearhead Posts: 267
From: Savoy TX, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 06-05-2002 09:56 AM
I thought the bronze gear was stronger, thats why I got it. BTW, its a roller cam. Oh yeah, it turns freely (the distributor, not the shaft), its backed out a little, the seal is not in, but it just won't come out. I'm afraid I tore something up.------------------
Hoofbeats are louder than Heartbeats!
68 Coupe, soon to have 351W and 5speed.
IP: Logged |
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