I plan on being able to take some good corners, occasional drag racing, and crusing.

I already have the smaller flywheel and clutch, but I can change it with no problem as it is new. I want to know before I send the flywheel to indymustang for balancing for my new crate engine.

I heard that the 10.5 is better for the street, as it is lighter. Also better for road racing. I understand that the 11in holds more power, but is it worth it to run on the street?

What would you run if you were in my shoes, Thumper?
(all around handling, strip car with powerful engine)

Thumper,Not sure what the TS in TSD means, but I am running a Currie 9 inch made to fit my 65. All suspension is stock dementions.

500+ hp capable diff.
3.89 trac loc gears
31 spline axles
SSBC slotted disc brakes (from MP, not currie)

If you were building an all-out r/r car, an aluminum flywheel would be the ticket. As an all-around fun street car, the steel 10.5 would be my choice

Not to complicate things, but if you do build the monster motor, you may need the 11. Hell, you'll have a hard time hooking up with either one(greased hippo )

Yes. Due to the popularity of late model Mustangs, there are a lot
of 10.5" options out there, though most are diaphragm pressure plates.
The 11" are usually Long pressure plates. I tend to prefer the feel
of Long presure plates but that may be a subjective point.

>I don't think that flywheel will clear your scattershield, though (could be
>wrong...).

It'll work fine. I have a Tremec TKO behind the 351C in my '66 fastback
and run a 164 teeth Mcleod steel flywheel in a Lakewood scattershield.
The part number for the scattershield is 15202. It's an SROD scattershield
that can be used for either 157 or 164 teeth flywheels and is set up for a
cable linkage like that used in the Fox Mustangs. Some places will modify
it for mechanical linkage and I think there's one place that has a bolt-on
external hydraulic slave. I went with an internal hydraulic throw out
bearing.

> 351W something

Go for the cubes.

>16 or 17 x 8 rims

There's not much room for a big rim in the front. I don't care for
the extremely short sidewall that would be need with a 17x8 up front.
You can tub and narrow in the rear and run whatever you want.

>Stiff MP suspension

Best thing for the front suspension is a camber correction kit.
I run the Global West negative roll control arms.

>4W disc brakes

If you go with a hydraulic master/slave for the clutch linkage, you'll
gain some room for plumbing if you swap the brake master cylinder to
one with lines on the other side.

Why would I NEED the 11 in if I build the 393. What are the negative effects of the smaller 10.5 on my engine, other than storing not as much hp? Will it adversely effect my drivability.

I can change, as I haven't used them yet. I can send them back to dark horse perf. for a larger 11 in 164. I just want the one that is best.

Dan - I have the MP version of the Shelby drop neg wedge kit. I couldn't afford the Global West stuff, but I did get a total suspension kit from MP with 5 leaf mid eyes, 1in and 5/8 in front and rear sway bars, 620s, etc.

I am thinking about some of the wheels I posted on my thread, but probably in 16x8 since I don't have huge brakes. They are big, but not 13 inch, they are just under 12in rotors. The smaller wheels would look better, plus the tire wall is bigger like you said.

How was that install of your Tremec TKO. I have heard 2 sides of a coin that for the early stangs, you have to cut the trans hump to make the tngine/tranny level because the tranny is taller. I have also heard that it is a bolt on, even though it is tight.

Any suggestions to make the install easier, such as motor mounts or anything? What starter do you use for your 164 tooth FW? Can you use a stock style one for the 157?