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Author Topic:   floorpans
ewokeric
Journeyman

Posts: 72
From: woodbridge, va united states
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 05-27-2002 12:33 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for ewokeric   Click Here to Email ewokeric     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
well it has begun i started welding my first floor pan in today. It is a little tricky since this is the first time i have ever welded. I ran out of wire and will have to get some more put is turing out ok at this point. I have a question? On the replacement floor pan do you weld under the pan to the frame rail to attach. That is what i was going to do just wondering you guys thougts. I have it welded all around the edges and every couple of inches will fill in and grind down this week i hope.

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68 mustang coupe(california special)not real though but looks it(will be nice) 351w/c4
My 68 Coupe

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Stang28965
Gearhead

Posts: 353
From: Webster New York USA
Registered: Mar 2001

posted 05-27-2002 08:19 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Stang28965   Click Here to Email Stang28965     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I'm not totally sure what you are asking. But you don't really want any of the old metal overlapping the new metal, It takes awhile for it to fit, But you will get it, Remember to not do one loooooooonnnng weld, Weld some tacks on all corners, to make sure it stays put, then weld say an inch or so on one tack then go to the next and do another inch, you don't want the metal warping on you. as for grinding, I would not do it, With mig you should be able to have your wire speed and heat set right so you have a low bead. Its going to be covered with carpet so their is no reason to take some of the strength away from the joint.

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 4135
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 05-27-2002 11:24 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Assume you started with a front pan. The inner frame rail or floor support--drill holes in floor pan where it goes over the floor support and plug weld the floor pan to that inner rail. Looked at a 66 cv recently where someone put in trunk floors doing a fairly good job but neglected to plug weld the new floors to the rear frame rails. Not good. The factory spot welds were a little more than an inch. I like every inch. And yes, move around.

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V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 1103
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 05-27-2002 02:12 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Stang28965:
as for grinding, I would not do it, With mig you should be able to have your wire speed and heat set right so you have a low bead. Its going to be covered with carpet so their is no reason to take some of the strength away from the joint.

Ditto. Grinding welds removes material, thus weakening the weld you've just put so much effort into. Tip angle, wire feed speed, and heat (voltage) all factor into bead quality/penetration. I'd suggest practicing on some scrap, get the technique down, and then do the real thing. Are you using shielding gas or flux core wire? The latter is more difficult to weld with and results in a poorer apperance.

About the most important tip I can give you is GET COMFORTABLE. I use my left hand to guide the tip with precesion, and whenever possible, I rest both arms on something. 'Free welding' is not only difficult, but your welds look like sh*t, not to mention poor penetration (weak weld)

Yes, I'd 'plug' weld the pan to the subframe. Welding up-side-down is a real m.f.'er

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V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 1103
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 05-27-2002 02:18 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
One more thing... you need clean surfaces to weld on. Freshly ground metal is best. Grease/dirt/paint/rust/gunk will contaminate the weld... not good.

Use a fan; keep the air moving around you. If in the garage, open the door(s). Strong wind can be a problem if using a shielding gas, but how good will your weld be if you're toxified from fumes?

Be patient, good luck

[This message has been edited by V8 Thumper (edited 05-27-2002).]

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mvendl
Journeyman

Posts: 67
From: Lowell, IN, USA
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 05-28-2002 10:31 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mvendl   Click Here to Email mvendl     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
ewokeric, where are you buying your pans from? I've been looking at "the Paddock's" pan kits that include both full length floors, firewall extensions, rear floor extensions and drain hole plug kit for $239. If you know of something better, let me know...

thanks,

--mark

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ewokeric
Journeyman

Posts: 72
From: woodbridge, va united states
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 05-28-2002 04:31 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ewokeric   Click Here to Email ewokeric     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mvendl:
ewokeric, where are you buying your pans from? I've been looking at "the Paddock's" pan kits that include both full length floors, firewall extensions, rear floor extensions and drain hole plug kit for $239. If you know of something better, let me know...

thanks,

--mark


i have gotton my stuff from cj pony i know the short floor pans are 25 dollars i think the long are 65 a piece and the fire wall extions are 28 dollar and the plug kit is 6. Don't quote me on that but check i out

www.cjponyparts.com

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68 mustang coupe(california special)not real though but looks it(will be nice) 351w/c4
My 68 Coupe

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mvendl
Journeyman

Posts: 67
From: Lowell, IN, USA
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 05-28-2002 05:12 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mvendl   Click Here to Email mvendl     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:

i have gotton my stuff from cj pony i know the short floor pans are 25 dollars i think the long are 65 a piece and the fire wall extions are 28 dollar and the plug kit is 6. Don't quote me on that but check i out

www.cjponyparts.com


ewokeric, What is the quality of the pans? guage used.. etc? Has anyone else used pans from the paddock, and what, if any, are the differences? The Paddock has their pans for a little more, but before I go and spend some hard earned cash, I want to get some quality material. thanks,

--mark

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Hemikiller
Gearhead

Posts: 104
From: Clinton, CT
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 05-28-2002 06:03 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hemikiller   Click Here to Email Hemikiller     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Just a tip on the floorpan-to-framerail welds. Use self drilling screws, and screw the floorpan to the framerail. This will draw the floor down flush to the rail, resulting in a better fit and neater appearance, and will also make your plug welding go MUCH easier. Not good tryin to fill a 1/4" gap with weld. Not very strong and looks like doo-doo too. Don't think that just leaning or weighting or hammering it will do the job, it just isn't enough pressure.

[This message has been edited by Hemikiller (edited 05-28-2002).]

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ewokeric
Journeyman

Posts: 72
From: woodbridge, va united states
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 05-28-2002 06:06 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ewokeric   Click Here to Email ewokeric     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
i do believe the floor pans that i used were 20 gag. metal and they fit nicely, they were ok in my opion but i have not seen anybody's elses

eric

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68 mustang coupe(california special)not real though but looks it(will be nice) 351w/c4
My 68 Coupe

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