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Author
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Topic: 70 coupe headliner
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BLstangin
Gearhead Posts: 758
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 05-20-2002 11:10 PM
   
Hello, currently trying to put in the headliner in a 70 coupe, but having some problems. All is well, until you get to the quarter pillar, I can't keep it from wrinkling when I stretch it from the quarter window, to the back window, it always wrinkles where it curves to go do the side from the roof. Anyone else ever have this problem, any tips and tricks would be appriciated, thanks. Brandon
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 42139
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 05-21-2002 08:08 PM
I believe people tighten them up by heating the headliner gently with a hair dryer. Sort of the shrink wrap effect.------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
MCA Member # 47773 "Doubt is not a pleasant condition, but certainty is absurd."
- Voltaire
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Hell_Fish
Gearhead Posts: 860
From: Austin, TX.
Registered: May 2002
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posted 09-04-2002 05:08 PM
I would like to know how it comes out. I need to replace the headliner on our 69 coupe.------------------
Dustin C
[IMG]http://pages.moparpages.com/duster/sigs/hell_fish.gif[/IMG]
56 F-100
Mech. for wifes 69 Mustang coupe
65 Plymouth Barracuda
70 Dodge Swinger
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BLstangin
Gearhead Posts: 758
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 09-04-2002 06:44 PM
Hellfish removing the headliner is the easy part, putting it back in is the hard part. To pull it out you must take out the dash pad, take off the rear view mirror, the windshield trim on both sides and the top. Take off the kick panels, and roll down all the windows, then pull the windlace off. It is easier to install if you pull out the front seats, but is not nessecary. You must then take out the back seat and the quarter trim panels, then the package tray trim. It is also easier to do if you take out the rear window like I did, and would recommend doing it that way. If you take out the rear window be sure to get a new seal. You do not have to take out the windshield. Once you have everything out you will want to cover up the dash, carpet, door panels, and anything else you don't want dirty. Once you have that all done you can grab the headliner in the front and start to slowly pull down on it, it should peel back with some time if work at it. When you get it pulled back to the first bow you have to push the bow towards the back of the car until it swings down. Then you will have to flex the bow to get it out of the hole in the roof. Then just keep going. Make sure that you either leave all the bows in the headliner or mark each one so you know exactly where they go. Also mark which hole each bow came out of or draw a picture so you can understand where each one goes as there is more than one hole in for each one to go into. on the back bow there is two little clips that hold it from coming ahead, make sure not to break those and hang onto them because you will need them to reinstall the headliner.
It is best to remove the back window, because it must be streched tight to keep it from having wrinkles. A little trick that I used was to use a hair dryer to kind of strech it around areas and pull the wrinkles out. They say to glue it in around the front and back window first, then glue it around the side windows. But that didn't work to well for me. They way that I found to work best was to glue it in around the windshield first, the work on the side window, starting in the center of the window on either side, then streching it back to the front a-pillar, and then to the back pillar. Once that was done on both sides and there was only a couple of box wrinkles,which will come out with time, I then glued it in around the back window to get the wrinkles out around the quarter pillar. I also recommend a good contact cement to glue it in, but the brush on stuff is hard to work with. My dad works at a John Deere dealer and he got some spray on adhesive, that worked much better than what the mustang catalogs sell you. But if you do use the spray on stuff you have to be careful not to get it where you dont want it. Also I used small spring clamps to hold the headliner on around the side pillars and door area until it dried good. This probably makes it sound hard and like a lot of work, but if you take your time and go slow it isn't that bad. I would also recommend letting the new headliner sit out of the box for a couple of days to let it stretch out a little bit. If I think of anything else I will post. If you have questions just post them, and I will give you aditional help. Brandon[This message has been edited by BLstangin (edited 05-28-2003).]
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Ken
Gearhead Posts: 4766
From: Prospect, Ct. M&M Member No. 31 MCA Member 49299
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 09-04-2002 06:55 PM
Yeah, what Brandon said !!! Whewwwwww  ------------------
Conciousness - that annoying time between naps. Ken
1965 Springtime Yellow Coupe - 302GT40-4spd
Edlebrock RPM Air Gap - 670cfm Holley Street Avenger
and much, MUCH MORE !!!
My 1965 (aka RUMBLE BEE) Photo Page
1995 5.0 Laser Red - 5spd - Coupe [This message has been edited by Ken (edited 09-04-2002).]
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65darkhorse
Gearhead Posts: 894
From: Northern NJ
Registered: Aug 2002
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posted 09-05-2002 01:21 AM
funny thing is I just finished my headliner tonight ('65). It was *relatively* easy to do. My 2 cents are: (more or less repeating BLstangin)
- wait for a nice hot sunny day, lay it out in the sun, let it stretch out, then start to install it. get it in place temporarily and let it sit for an hour or two in the car, it will become extremely pliable as a result.
- don't use that brush-on adhesive  I bought a can, but the stuff was so strong that it started to eat thru my headliner. So I ended up using the 3M brand spray on adhesive for carpets etc.. It says right on the can it shouldn't be used for *heavyduty* headliners, vinyl roofs etc, but its much easier to use and ended up working out fine.
-buy the sound deadener (really just thin fiberglass sheets). It helps to "lock" the bows in the upright position.
-If you can, take out the front seats and remove the steering wheel. You'll appreciate the extra effort at the end. I started out leaving them in place but found it much easier after taking them out. All it takes is an additional 5 minutes. Last thing you want is industrial strength glue anywhere on your interior.
-Use a marker to circle the holes where the bows where. No pieces of paper to get lost, and nothing to have to refer to.
-If the weather isn't cooperating, and you have high intensity halogens AND you have the interior out of you car, AND the headliner is temporarily installed,just lay the lights on the floorboard, propping them up and making sure they aren't touching anything even remotely flammable (cuz they get wicked hot~last thing you want is your ride going up in smoke). You'll be able to heat up much more of the headliner than with a hairdryer. *disclaimer* obviously wouldn't recommend this unless the interior is completely stripped (like mine). It worked for me and I've gotta say, it turned out ok for my first time. that said...I'm short on patience so there might not be a second time.
-At the factory, the headliners were installed before the glass. If your windshield or backlight is out, it'll be easier to install.
-Like BL said, spring clamps help. alot.
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Hell_Fish
Gearhead Posts: 860
From: Austin, TX.
Registered: May 2002
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posted 09-05-2002 08:57 AM
Thanks guys. After I get my oil pressure problem solved, I will add the headliner, then I start learning how to paint.------------------
Dustin C
56 F-100
Mech. for wifes 69 Mustang coupe
65 Plymouth Barracuda
70 Dodge Swinger [This message has been edited by Hell_Fish (edited 09-05-2002).]
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BLstangin
Gearhead Posts: 758
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 09-05-2002 11:33 PM
65darkhorse has some more good points, thats how I marked my holes too, I used a marker. I wouldn't recommend heating the headliner with halogens, because the headliner gets to hot and when you strech it, the headliner distorts. I just use a hair drier to put the heat in a specific spot or area to help remove wrinkles and box folds, and do put it out in the sun for a little while to let is straighten out. Also on the 69 and later models ford went to a glue in windshield, so do not remove the windshield to put the headliner in, it isn't nessecary. I put new sound deadener in my car and would recommend you do to as 65 darkhorse said. If there is a few creases or wrinkles left in the headliner they will come out in time, I don't have a single wrinkle left in my headliner anymore, and when I installed it there was 3 or 4.
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Hell_Fish
Gearhead Posts: 860
From: Austin, TX.
Registered: May 2002
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posted 04-15-2004 11:37 AM
Ok, did you use the original headliner for a templete to punch holes in the new one?------------------
Dustin C
"The Mopar Guy!"
CRC Motorsports
56 F-100
Mech. for wifes 69 Mustang coupe
65 Plymouth Barracuda
70 Dodge Swinger
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