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  bad lifter - what to do

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Author Topic:   bad lifter - what to do
Calcat
Journeyman

Posts: 32
From: Los Angeles, CA
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 04-15-2002 02:25 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Calcat   Click Here to Email Calcat     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Breaking in new hydraulic cam and had to shut down engine, when I restarted loud tick. Took off valve cover, #5 exhaust rocker real loose. I know I set them correctly so I tightened it down and finished breaking in cam. I think the lifter (new CC hi energys) is bad and collapsed. I set them up per CC recommendations, no priming just assembly lube.
I'm thinking that I will have to pull that lifter and replace it as the push rod is too tight to spin with the valve closed. Any other thoughts?

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 23691
From: Saco, Maine USA
Registered: May 99

posted 04-15-2002 03:51 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Do you have positive stop rocker arm studs, or the adjustable type? Hopefully you have the latter and you can do a running adjustment. I'd be very surprised if a new CC lifter was bad.

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'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
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460-67Stang
Gearhead

Posts: 157
From: Southern Ohio, USA
Registered: Feb 2001

posted 04-16-2002 11:03 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 460-67Stang   Click Here to Email 460-67Stang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I had the exact same situation with my new lifters and Ford cam. Turned out one of the lifters went bad and ate most of the cam lobe off. All this in a brand new motor.

Fortunately I stoped it in time and the oil filter did it's job - no permanent engine damage...although the oil pump was shot.

Lesson Learned - Don't re-adjust your rocker. If it's THAT loose, there's something wrong. If you can pull the lifter and inspect it do so. Otherwise remove your intake and peek at the cam. Better safe than sorry!
FWIW,
Brian

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mvierow
Gearhead

Posts: 148
From: Bay Area, Ca
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 04-17-2002 07:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mvierow   Click Here to Email mvierow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have a comp cam as well, and I think I may have encountered the same problem. After installing the cam and breaking it in I noticed that there was a tick on the passenger side of the motor. I originally thought it was an exhaust leak, but when I removed the gasket I saw no evidence of a leak. I then re-adjusted my rockers and none of them were loose. When I originally installed them however I could push down on the back of the rocker and collapse the lifter. Afterward I noticed several of them would no longer collapse. I recently had my motor out of the car, and looked carefully at the cam from the bottom of the motor. I didn't notice any scarring of the surface at all. There was no evidence of wear on the cam, the rockers, lift rods or rockers, everything looked tip top. I too followed the instructions very closely, though I wonder now if I somehow damaged a lifter by not properly adjusting it. Could I have fouled a lifter by over tightening the rocker? It seems their adjustment proceedures are a little tough to really nail. I recall applying excessive assembly lube to the lifter rod to make sure that friction was not and issue when tightening, but who knows... I do recall noticing some of the lock nuts being of different depth inside the rocker retainer nuts however.

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 4182
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 04-17-2002 08:15 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
This crap is why I gave up on h.p. hydraulic cams.
I swear I adjusted the old hydraulic cam every other week. When I went to a solid grind everyone said I'd be adjusting valves all the time. Well I checked them a few times, but never adjusted them in over a year. They were rock steady.

Anyway, back to the question:

Juice lifters bleed down, so the fact that some of them have play after the engine is shut down doesn't mean squat. They others are still pumped up! That also makes adjusting them kinda like finding the g spot in the dark. (did I tell you I hate this crap, not the g-spot thing LOL) Anyway, back to the subject; Try to find the spot when they just start compressing (even though some are flat and some are pumped up) and give the nut an extra 1/4 turn. GOOD LUCK

SteveW

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