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Author
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Topic: whats the best camber kit? GlobalWest, TCP, Negative wedge kit
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jon_d
Journeyman Posts: 3
From:
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 04-12-2002 09:04 AM
   
I'm trying to decide on which negative wedge kit to use.They all seem to create negative camber by lowering the upper arm. I think globalwest also uses a shorter arm. Any suggestions?
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richard bohm
Gearhead Posts: 373
From: tucson,az-luray,va
Registered: May 2001
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posted 04-12-2002 10:52 AM
the global west or total control product arms are the best solution here. the next best would be the negative wedge kit WITH reinforced upper arms(the stock ones tend to break behind the balljoint). if you wan the negative wedge kit, pro motorsports has the upper arm reinforcement plates you need.
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Daniel Jones
Gearhead Posts: 420
From: St. Louis, MO
Registered: Aug 99
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posted 04-12-2002 11:46 AM
The Global West control arms are excellent. They use a shorter, custom,
tubular upper arm fitted with their zero deflection Del-a-Lum (Delrin and
aluminum) bushings and re-located balljoints. The GW set-up drops the
arms approximately 1 1/4 inches and also introduces some anti-dive
geometry. The bottom-line is that you get a very good camber curve with
no deflection under load. An added bonus is that tire life is improved
since no static static camber is required.What spring rates and sway bars you'll need depends upon what year your
car is and what engine you have but on my '66 fastback with 351C, it's
neurtral with just a front sway bar. Later heavier Mustangs may need
a small rear bar to balance out. Global West has detail recommendations
for tires, wheels, springs, shocks, sway bars, etc. that are worth paying
attention too. One gotcha is that if you're still running 14" rims, you
may have tire rub issues. Easily the best suspension modification I've made on my '66 fastback.
The front grips so much better than the back that it's got me wanting
to do a Griggs torque arm for the rear. If you've got the bucks, Griggs
also does a front suspension set up but it's fairly involved (replaces
the shock towers with smaller ones which I'd love to have for clearance
with the 351C). Dan Jones
IP: Logged |
Daniel Jones
Gearhead Posts: 420
From: St. Louis, MO
Registered: Aug 99
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posted 04-12-2002 11:52 AM
The Global West control arms are excellent. They use a shorter, custom,
tubular upper arm fitted with their zero deflection Del-a-Lum (Delrin and
aluminum) bushings and re-located balljoints. The GW set-up drops the
arms approximately 1 1/4 inches and also introduces some anti-dive
geometry. The bottom-line is that you get a very good camber curve with
no deflection under load. An added bonus is that tire life is improved
since no static static camber is required.What spring rates and sway bars you'll need depends upon what year your
car is and what engine you have but on my '66 fastback with 351C, it's
neurtral with just a front sway bar. Later heavier Mustangs may need
a small rear bar to balance out. Global West has detail recommendations
for tires, wheels, springs, shocks, sway bars, etc. that are worth paying
attention too. One gotcha is that if you're still running 14" rims, you
may have tire rub issues. Easily the best suspension modification I've made on my '66 fastback.
The front grips so much better than the back that it's got me wanting
to do a Griggs torque arm for the rear. If you've got the bucks, Griggs
also does a front suspension set up but it's fairly involved (replaces
the shock towers with smaller ones which I'd love to have for clearance
with the 351C). Dan Jones
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Daniel Jones
Gearhead Posts: 420
From: St. Louis, MO
Registered: Aug 99
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posted 04-12-2002 11:53 AM
Doh!, sorry for the double post.Dan
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jon_d
Journeyman Posts: 3
From:
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 04-12-2002 12:05 PM
Awesome info! I think you've talked me into it.
Right now I have 600lb 1'' lowing springs, and a 1'' front and 3/4(i think) rear sway bar. I just ordered 16x8 vintage 45s with really sticky rubber  I guess I should also get subframe connectors?
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Daniel Jones
Gearhead Posts: 420
From: St. Louis, MO
Registered: Aug 99
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posted 04-12-2002 02:41 PM
Yes, by all means get good subframe connectors. I run the Global West subframe connectors on the '66. They are stout. Also get a Monte Carlo bar and one piece export brace. I've seen a triangulated piece that replaces the Monte Carlo bar and export brace but I can't recall whose it was (Total Control maybe?). Dan Jones
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richard bohm
Gearhead Posts: 373
From: tucson,az-luray,va
Registered: May 2001
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posted 04-12-2002 10:33 PM
for subframe connectors i would highly recomend the ones from total control products. get the center cage as well. they will stiffen the chassis better than any thing else short of a full roll cage. as for the monte carlo bar and export brace, avoid ones with the rod ends. all you are doing there is introducing a bearing where one is detrimental to performance.
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Mpcoluv
Gearhead Posts: 745
From: Charlotte NC usa
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 04-14-2002 08:54 AM
quote:
Originally posted by richard bohm:
for subframe connectors i would highly recomend the ones from total control products. get the center cage as well. they will stiffen the chassis better than any thing else short of a full roll cage. as for the monte carlo bar and export brace, avoid ones with the rod ends. all you are doing there is introducing a bearing where one is detrimental to performance.
So I should not install my Competition Engineering subframe connectors?
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