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Author	Topic: new engine / older transmission compatibility
rockafellz Gearhead Posts: 805 From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA Registered: Aug 2001	posted 04-11-2002 02:13 PM Ok guys, Here's the plan... I bought a used 306 fully balanced and blueprinted w/ported/polished Windsor JRs. Everything comes with it except for the following: distributor, oil pan, valve covers, and timing chain cover. It is currently setup with a serpentine belt and is setup for a manual transmission car. It came out of a '95 mustang (not original motor) with fuel injection. This is my CURRENT configuration: 289, 2bbl, C4 automatic, 157tooth/28oz flywheel. The bellhousing on it right now bolts onto the front pump (not case) if that has any relevence. Are there bellhousings for 164tooth and 157tooth flexplates? Anyhow, I also have a bellhousing that came from a 91 mustang that originally came with the dynamic C4 (used). Ok, now that you know my current configuration, please help me figure out which parts can go together. When I get the 306, I want to bolt on a new flexplate for C4 use. Specifically, what flexplate do I need? The harmonic balancer that the 306 has is a 50oz. If I get the 50oz flexplate, does it need to get further balanced to keep the engine in complete balance??? I also assume that I need to get a 164tooth flexplate?? Or do they have a 157t/50oz models?? I'm not exactly sure what the 157tooth or the 164tooth is for?? Please explain... I also need a new distributor, timing chain cover, oil pan, and valve covers. The block is a DSS racing block. Can a stock "front sump" oil pan bolt right on? I also hear that the rear main seals are now a one piece on this "newer" 302 block? Are these "newer" 302s a whole lot different from the "older" 302s? Please help!! Let me know if you need more information from me. I will be checking this thread every 30 mins or less!! Regards, Erik ------------------ 1966 Ford Mustang / 289 / C4 [This message has been edited by rockafellz (edited 04-11-2002).] IP: Logged
rockafellz Gearhead Posts: 805 From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA Registered: Aug 2001	posted 04-11-2002 02:36 PM I almsot forgot, it's also going to need a new intake/carb, but we can get into that a little later... Right now I just want to be prepared for the things that may get overlooked. I REALLY REALLY DO NOT want to overlook anything for this transition!! Thanks in advance. Regards, Erik IP: Logged
mellowyellow Gearhead Posts: 5456 From: So. Fl. Registered: Aug 2000	posted 04-11-2002 04:09 PM Are you going to use the v- belt setup on the front. I have an 89 HO in a 65. Using the v-belts, I have a 3 bolt damper and flexplate that was purchased at Total Performance in Mich. Mustangs Plus has these pieces, I believe. The early automatic starter bolts right on. Am running early repo HI PO exhaust manifolds, and a Shelby lettered intake. Dist is a rebuilt 65/6 with Pertronix and a steel gear from Mustangs Unlimited. Ford Racing has it and maybe dealers. The timing cover, waterpump, pulleys PS pump and AC bracketry are all 65. For valve covers, to keep the "period" look, made spacers out of 1/2" billet using a cover and gasket as template. Scott Drake has made some valve covers that have modified baffling to clear the late rockers.Using a pair of Cobra type. IP: Logged
richard bohm Gearhead Posts: 373 From: tucson,az-luray,va Registered: May 2001	posted 04-11-2002 07:13 PM you need a 157 tooth flexplate(assuming your C4 has the small bellhousing) with the 50oz balance weight on it. you can get it from windsor fox. the C4 will bolt to the motor. if you want to keep the serpentine belt system you only need to change the oil pan as the dip stick boss is still cast in on the later timing covers, all you have to do is drill it out. as for the rear oil seal, yes they did go to the one piece seal, but you dont need to worry about that untill replacement time for the crank rolls around. the front sump oilpan will bolt to the block. all DSS does is prepare the blocks as if it was going into a race car, they are still stock 302 blocks. when you get the dist you want, make sure it has a steel gear if you are using a roller cam. ford sells the right gear as does comp cams. basically except for the balance weights, the 302 is the same as it was when it was introduced in the early 60's as the 221. if you want to keep the V belt system you just need the right pulleys. you can get them from the ford dealer or the salvage yard, just look for the 4 bolt crank pulley. IP: Logged
mellowyellow Gearhead Posts: 5456 From: So. Fl. Registered: Aug 2000	posted 04-11-2002 09:06 PM Not to disagree but if you want the 66 configuration, you will need a 3 bolt damper to use the 66 crank pulley, the 4 bolt is 69 or 70 up. Mustangs Plus sells a combination damper that can be used either way, also. Don't forget to plug the dipstick hole on the side. Windsor-Fox uses a pieces of wood doweling IP: Logged
SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 30097 From: Saco, Maine Registered: May 99	posted 04-12-2002 07:59 AM Don't forget to remove the pilot bearing from the end of the crank. ------------------ '70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open '72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok '94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip MCA Member # 47773 *My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her... or something like that...* IP: Logged
bluestreek Gearhead Posts: 1011 From: Athens,GA Registered: Jul 2001	posted 04-12-2002 11:37 AM You need to MAKE SURE how the motor is balanced ( internal, 28oz, or 50oz). You can usually get them balanced either way. The flywheel or dampener will let you know. I took a 3 hole crank pulley and drilled it to match a 4 hole dampener. That way I could use all my original underdrive parts from the old 289 on a Fluidamper. The universal dampener that MP sells is also a excellent idea. . Also Hydraulic roller cams require a steel or bronze distributor gear. BS [This message has been edited by bluestreek (edited 04-12-2002).] IP: Logged

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