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  upper control arm drop w/ 1" lowering springs

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Author Topic:   upper control arm drop w/ 1" lowering springs
rockafellz
Gearhead

Posts: 805
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001

posted 04-08-2002 01:20 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for rockafellz   Click Here to Email rockafellz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hey All,

Ok, this weekend is designated for the front end rebuild.

I've got a couple of questions though...

Alright, I was thinking of doing the shelby 1" drop and started research on it this morning. The shelby drop is limited to a 1" relocation because of ball joint binding that may occur under hard cornering?! Correct? Yes, that is using the stock OE coil springs. My concern is if I do in fact perform the shelby 1" drop and I decide to use 1" lowering springs, will binding occur or is the risk of binding greater due to the control arm now angled even more after upgrading to a 1" lowering spring? Do I make any sense?

From my research, the shelby 1" drop will only "theoretically" drop the car half an inch. I believe people are mistaken when saying "shelby 1" drop". Some people are led to believe that it will lower the car 1" when in fact the term "shelby 1" drop" is referring to the upper arm relocation drop of 1".

If the chances of binding may occur after that upper arm relocation, then I am led to believe using drop springs may increase the chances of binding or ball join "pop-out".

Am I correct? If I am, what would you guys do? Lower the car with springs or perform the shelby control arm relocation?

Regards,

Erik

------------------
1966 Ford Mustang / 289 / C4

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 5456
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 04-08-2002 06:08 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
A negative wedge kit is available for $200 plus which does prevent ball joint binding. A 2" drop is a DROP and wheel and fender lip considerations come into play. The Shelby "drop" is an inch on the ones I've seen done.

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n2oMike
Gearhead

Posts: 1307
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 04-08-2002 06:23 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for n2oMike   Click Here to Email n2oMike     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote

()---"_"---()

Think of the first set of ()'s as the ball joint, and the other set where the upper arm mounts to the shock tower.

The spring mounts right in the middle.

Dropping the shock tower mounting point an inch only lowers the spring (car) about half that amount.

Get it?

The negative wedge kit takes the bind out of the ball joint, and allows the arm to be mounted even lower on the shock tower. Lowering the mounting point of the upper arm improves the wheel's camber curve. Stock, as the suspension moves up, the top of the tire points out, the bottom in. '\--/' With the change, this is reversed. '/--\' This allows the tread contact patch to stay flatter with the road as the car travels around corners. As the car leans over, the tire stays flat on the road. Without the modification, the car leans over AND the tire leans out as well... making the car run on the sidewall around hard turns.

Good Luck!

------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220

[This message has been edited by n2oMike (edited 04-08-2002).]

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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 1006
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 04-11-2002 05:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke   Click Here to Email Ryan Wilke     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
So Guys:
Are you saying that it's a good change even for a straight line (dragracer) car too?

Would the wedge kit still be recommended if the car was only dropped the 1"?

Thanks for the helpful advice, Guys!
Ryan

------------------
The '3-Pedal Attitude' Kid
in a '69 FB w/ 306 now, but
the 460+ is coming... :D

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richard bohm
Gearhead

Posts: 373
From: tucson,az-luray,va
Registered: May 2001

posted 04-11-2002 07:00 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for richard bohm   Click Here to Email richard bohm     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
one caveat in using the negative wedge kit is to reinforce the upper arm behind the ball joint as that is where the upper arms break due to the added stress. pro motorsports has the reiforcement kit for the upper arm. ryan if you use the negative wedge kit you need to lower the arm the specified amount, other wise the ball joints bind on the other side.

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