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Author Topic:   (stupid) four speed rebuild question
V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 3529
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 04-02-2002 10:58 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I bought a complete overhaul kit for my T-10, did the rebuild myself (saved $300 ) Turning the input shaft (by hand, on the bench) through all four forward gears feels real smooth, but when I engage reverse, it's got noticably more drag. Is this typical?

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V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 3529
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 04-02-2002 02:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Come on now, I'm not the only nut-ball who's rebuilt his own, am I?

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6602
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 04-02-2002 03:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
If it feels smooth, but just a little harder to turn by hand it should be fine. How did the gears and their bearing surfaces look, did you put the thrust washers in the right places? If you're sure it's right then put it in and don't worry about it.

SteveW

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DidgeyTrucker
Gearhead

Posts: 1060
From: Greenbrier, TN USA
Registered: Oct 99

posted 04-02-2002 03:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for DidgeyTrucker   Click Here to Email DidgeyTrucker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I've noticed a little more drag on fresh toploaders. You are going through one more gear engagement to make reverse. If it doesn't crunch, I wouldn't worry about it. Did you check thrust washer clearances? Did the reverse idler drop into place? If you didn't have to force anything into place, it shoiuld be OK.

Tracy

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V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 3529
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 04-02-2002 03:36 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks guys. I did replace all thrust washers, measured end-play (dial indicator, didn't just guess) and set up both the countershaft and idler shaft to the Ford tech manual's specs. Everything did 'drop' into place, no BFH required . The countershaft was a mother to install; it took machining a dummy shaft to the precise length to clear the case and yet still retain the washers, but it did drop in. 1-4 and R are smooth, no grinding or hard spots at all. 'R' was just a bit stiffer. Thanks again; I just wanted to be sure

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n2oMike
Gearhead

Posts: 1590
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 04-02-2002 03:52 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for n2oMike   Click Here to Email n2oMike     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:

The countershaft was a mother to install; it took machining a dummy shaft to the precise length to clear the case and yet still retain the washers, but it did drop in.

The easiest way to get the countershaft installed (at least for a toploader) is to make a trip to the local hardware store and purchase a hardwood dowell rod. Simply cut to length, and install the loose bearings with thick grease to hold them in place. Then, as the 'real' shaft is tapped into place, the wooden one slides out the other end. I believe 7/8" is the right diameter for a toploader.

Machining a metal dummy shaft sounds like a PITA.

Just a little 'tidbit' for future reference, and up-and-coming 4-speed rebuilders.

Toploaders can be a pain. The front and rear 'main' bearings require a special tool to remove. I spin the input and output shafts in a large drill press (or lathe) and sand them down with emery cloth to a gentle press fit (upon rebuilding) so they will come apart by hand the next time the transmission needs serviced.

The internal shift linkage and detents can also be a puzzle until you get used to it.

To rebuild a toploader... (from memory)

1. Drop cluster gear
2. remove front and rear bearings
3. remove internal shift linkage
4. remove remove main shaft
5. remove input shaft
6. install new parts on main shaft
7. lay cluster w/dummy shaft in bottom of case
8. install shift levers
9. install main shaft
10. install input
11. Raise cluster and install real shaft (carefully!)
12. install linkage
13. install cover.

This is a VERY abbreviated procedure... Refer to a real manual for all the little details.

Good Luck!
------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220

[This message has been edited by n2oMike (edited 04-02-2002).]

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V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 3529
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 04-02-2002 04:07 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by n2oMike:
The easiest way to get the countershaft installed (at least for a toploader) is to make a trip to the local hardware and purchase a hardwood dowell rod. Simply cut to length, and install the loose bearings with thick grease to hold them in place. Then, as the 'real' shaft is tapped into place, the wooden one slides out the other end.



That's the identical procedure for this trans. The wood dowel is a great tip, thanks Mike!

Hey, anyone need a precesion dummy shaft for a T-10? CHEAP!

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