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  '64 1/2 to '73 -- The Classic Mustang
  Floor Pan Removal

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Author Topic:   Floor Pan Removal
mvendl
Gearhead

Posts: 170
From: Lowell, IN, USA
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 03-28-2002 09:29 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mvendl   Click Here to Email mvendl     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
In doing some reading, and also looking at the Paddock catalog, they recommend that you do not use a torch to cut the pans out of a car, as the sheet metal will warp. Since I've never done pans before, what is ya'lls suggestions? I dont have a problem cutting them out using a sawzall or something, but I'm not sure the best way to go about it.

thanks,

--mark

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Mike65
Gearhead

Posts: 1771
From: Bloomfield, NY, USA. 65 Fastback, 69 Coupe MCA #-04549
Registered: Dec 2000

posted 03-28-2002 10:49 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mike65   Click Here to Email Mike65     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hi Mark,
When I cut the pan out of my 65 Fastback I used an air chisel & a sawzall for the large section & then drilled out the spot welds at the rocker & used a hamer & chisel & the air chisel the remove the rest. Hope hat helps.

------------------
Mike & Robin
65 Mustang Fastback
69 Mustang Coupe
87 LTD CV
96 Ranger Extd Cab PU
99 Explorer Sport
M&M #- 890
MCA #- 4549
www.mike65.mustangsandmore.ws

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RPM289
Gearhead

Posts: 113
From: Phenix City, AL
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 03-28-2002 11:45 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for RPM289   Click Here to Email RPM289     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I use a air chizel to get the large stuff out then grab a high speed (air grinder)with a cutting wheel to make my final cuts. With a little practice you can cut real stright lines with it.

------------------
66' Mustang
95' Lightning
84' 351w Ranger

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Hemikiller
Gearhead

Posts: 395
From: Clinton, CT
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 03-28-2002 07:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hemikiller   Click Here to Email Hemikiller     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
air chisel with panel cutter, A/C w/ spot weld chisel, SawzAll, Air grinder with cutoff wheel, Drill with 3/8" bits, and a spotweld cutter. Oh, and a set of Hougen RotoBroaches for good measure. Thats what is sitting on the seat pan of my '71 at the moment. Tools of the trade. Smoke Wrench BAD!!!!

To reinstall, a Roper-Whitney hand punch is a wonderful way to punch holes quickly to simulate the factory spot welds. took me two minutes to punch 40 holes in the new floor pans.

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mvendl
Gearhead

Posts: 170
From: Lowell, IN, USA
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 03-29-2002 09:24 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mvendl   Click Here to Email mvendl     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Ok, another question, when I cut out the old pans, how much do I leave for the new pans to weld to? I guess what I'm getting at is does there need to be a "lip" that the new pans drop into and then spot weld them? I dont have the new pans yet so I may be premature in asking that question. Also, I need to install front frame rail patches.... Should I do this before, during, or after I do the pans. My frame rails are caved in a bit about 4" or so before they stop as you are going towards the back of the car.

thanks.

--mark

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Hemikiller
Gearhead

Posts: 395
From: Clinton, CT
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 03-30-2002 02:17 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hemikiller   Click Here to Email Hemikiller     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
You can get replacement floor supports from any mustang vendor. Do these when the floors are out, much easier to do at that time. As far as how much to cut, wait 'til you get your pans. When you remove your seat platform, drill a hole at each corner, 2 on the rocker side, 2 on the tunnel side. Use these as guide marks for reinstalling the pans to set the floor height in that area. When you get the floors, remove the seat platform and lay the pans intot he car and outline on the floor in magic marker,etc the uppermost limit of the replacement pan. Now you have a limit on the max you can remove. I usually leave and inch or so, and then you can either trim off the excess after welding or tack or seam weld it to the pan, and then a nice coat of POR 15 and some seam sealer.

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 5739
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 03-30-2002 07:01 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Only use a torch to cut out rotten inner rockers and torque boxes on cv's. Not having a big one, had a guy come and cut out one side at a time, inner rocker and t-box. Floors, sawzalls are great if you can control them and follow a line. Clean up with air powered saw. What I think some pro's do. is to lay the new pan in after initial cutout allowing room for final trim. New pan layed over excess and trimmed together, allowing for a decent butt weld. Some guys like to leave a "ledge for the pan to rest on, lap welding it. One argument against this is allowing a place for rust to seep in, underneath. It can be trimmed and painted,sealed, etc. but it is not as workmanlike as the butt weld. The pans should be welded solid, in my opinion. Have seen a couple of "OLD" articles that allowed skip welding-a bead, a small space and another bead, etc. Not good. Don't know if you have a cv or closed car-there is a difference in pans, and the outer procedure differs. Both call for plug welding or spot welding to an existing area. If inner rockers are going to be put in, try to get paint on the inside and inside of t-box before installation.

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