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Author Topic:   Transmission Replacement Checklist

Posts: 805
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001

posted 03-12-2002 11:33 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for rockafellz   Click Here to Email rockafellz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hey Fellas,

This project is hopefully going to get done this weekend. I'm preparing a checklist and was hoping you guys can QA it for me. I plan on replacing my current C4 automatic with a used Dynamic Street/Strip C4.

The person I bought it from says it didn't leak when he removed it but recommended I replace seals anyway since it was off the car. This is what I did last weekend.

1. Replaced rear tailshaft seal
2. Replaced Vaccuum Modulator (I compared the old one to the new one and the screw adjuster was screwed in about 2 full turns so I did the same to the new one. Is this OK?)
3. Replaced filter (gasket will be put on after the transmission has been mounted.)
4. Cleaned transmission case
5. I thought about replacing front pump seal, but i'm not sure how to drive the new one in with the input shaft in the way. I don't really want to take the transmission apart.

Below is the other things I need to do during or prior to installation. Please let me know if I missed something.

1. Replace O-ring on dipstick tube
2. Buy new transmission lines
3. Buy tranmission cooler

Anything else that I've missed?

I bought a TCI torque converter 26-spline(2000RPM stall) for this C4 (since my stock C4 is an older '66 with a 24 spline). To my knowledge the engine is fairly stock so I'm hoping this stall speed is OK.

Please let me know if I missed anything. Also, is it possible to replace the front pump seal with the input shaft in the way? The only way I can think of replacing this seal is using a steel tube with the same diameter as the seal.

Thanks in advance.



1966 Ford Mustang / 289 / C4

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Posts: 30097
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 03-12-2002 12:36 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The most important seal is the one you haven't replaced yet, the torque converter seal. The correct tool is like a tube, but I install them by carefully tapping them in with a piece of wood and a hammer.


'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip

MCA Member # 47773

Always borrow money from a pessimist, they don't expect it back.

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Posts: 256
From: Clinton, CT
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 03-12-2002 06:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hemikiller   Click Here to Email Hemikiller     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Ditto, ALWAYS replace the front pump seal if the tranny is out for any reason. Make sure you lube the lips of the seal with a bit of grease, prevents the seal from burning. You should use grease on any rubber seal in the drivetrain or suspension, including o-rings. Also, if you have an air compressor, blow out your tranny lines, especially if your original trans was slipping or non-functional. 90% of all new/rebuilt transmission failures are due to this one overlooked piece, the transmission cooler. Fills up with metal and clutch material, then gets blown back into the new tranny. Spray a bunch of carb cleaner into the line, the use a air nozzle to blow it through. Make sure to catch the wash in a 2L soda bottle or whatever. One full can should do the trick, but keep going until the wash coming out is reasonably clean. When you're installing that front pump seal, tap around the seal, like in the same pattern you would use to torque your lugnuts, makes the seal go in straighter and easier, less risk of damage. If you do damage it in any way, replace it. Better to spent another $6 on a seal, then another weekend to R&R the trans again.

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Posts: 464
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99

posted 03-12-2002 10:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for RonnieT   Click Here to Email RonnieT     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Most important is to make sure the torque converter goes in all the way before you try and install the transmission, there should be 2 "clunks" when it is in all the way. And I also agree with changing the front seal anytime the transmission is removed.

69 mach1 351W-4V
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23

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